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Re: Septic Dyes?
Jerry is on the right track.
I suggest you take a class in Sub Surface Wastewater System Operator before attempting to do septic inspections. There is allot of things you need to know before you come to a conclusion.
Our state is requiring license for septic inspections and I have taken courses in operator and maintenance and inspector classes. It's overwhelming to say the least.
To make things simple I'll give a little advice on your typical gravity system as was taught to me from NCSU soil science class. Remember your area may vary.
First get all the information and history of the system from the health dept. You need to know the layout of the field it's design load etc. Walk the field and area of the tank. Check the field to make sure rain water doesn't pond. Check for break outs, vegetation, drove on, structures, etc.
Once you located the field find the Distribute box and check it for abnormalities, cracks, roots etc. probe the nitrification lines for water saturation, Now be careful because you need to know what type of lateral lines they are and you don't damage them. If its a pressure line (Lpp) don't probe. If their is water standing in the probed hole it's a red flag. Now you need to use common sense if it just rained a few days in a row and the systems has been dosed allot you will need to wait and see if it dissipates in a reasonable amount of time.
Check around the tank for settlement broken lids, leakage around the risers etc. The level of waste should be at the outlet "t" bottom. If below the outlet it's a red flag if the home is lived in. If above the bottom then that's a red flag and possible line problems. Check the baffle wall with a mirror for damage. Check the outlet "t' for damage. Check the filter (1999 and newer). Do not pull the filter if the effluent is above the outlet "t". You'll send waste solids into the field. Have it pumped below first.
Now if everything is looking OK take waste measurements. measure the solids on the bottom and the Fogs on the top (fats, oils, grease). and the height of the water level. Add the solids and the fogs and subtract from the waste water height. This will give you the effluent level in the middle. If it is less then 30% of volume then it should be pumped. So that being said It is not required here to have the tank pumped to determine it's condition unless other red flags justify it. Because of the cost involved the potential buyer may not want it pumped but you better note it and get there signature saying so.
Me I want it pumped every time to cover my but. But you need do the above so you know what is happening with the system before you pump.
Now there is another way to check the nitrification field and that is to do a Hydraulic Load Test (HLT). Pumpers around here like to do them but the teachers don't recommend it because you are dosing the field all at once and the system was designed on a 24 hr. basis. But the system should be designed for worst case scenario's.
Here it's 60 gallons per person or 120 gallons per bedroom. You take a five gallon bucket and fill it from the homes hose bib. Time how long it takes to fill. Lets say it's a 3 bedroom house at 360 gallons. It takes 30 seconds per gallon to fill the bucket. That should be 54 minutes to load the field to it's design. You place your hose (not there's) in the outlet pipe and load it for the time period and under normal weather conditions for your area the field should accept it. I have seen it done with no break outs.
Also around here after 1982 you have to have a designated repair field. Make sure structures where not built on it, and it is accessible.
There is so many systems out there and allot are Proprietary systems and you need there permission to inspect (and most won't let you but are willing to train you) and typically someone from there department there, or the OM service person.
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