Pavers against siding

[Phil English]

Hello all!

I'm thinking of laying pavers over an existing concrete slab but they will overlap the aluminum siding (be above the bottom edge by about 2 inches) and the aluminum covered posts and trim below the door.

What should I do? Do I need to install flashing under the siding and then trim the siding and reattach with a utility strip so it is higher than the paver? What about the trim under the door and around the posts.

Your input would be greatly appreciated.

10820

10819

Phil.

[brian schmitt]

tear out the concrete and keep the pavers 6" below untreated wood or paint the paver pattern on the existing slab:D

[Jerry Peck]

Phil,

From your photos, Brian's recommendation is the only right way to do it.

However, and if you insist on leaving the concrete (i.e., doing it but doing it the wrong way), then instead of using full thickness pavers use thin pavers and lay them in thin-set on the concrete. That way, they will not be as high as full pavers are.

First, though, you would need to remove the bottom aluminum siding course to keep the aluminum siding above the pavers, BUT ... looking at your photos, it does not look like you have that much height to work with, removing that bottom aluminum siding will expose the bottom plate and the OSB sheathing.

From your photos ... you ALREADY do not have the required minimum height above the concrete to the top of the slab where the framing and sheathing is. ANYTHING you put on will only make that space even more prone to moisture damage.

Looking at your photo, then taking the thickness of the bottom plate, which is about equal to to height of the slab above the concrete, *you only have 1-1/2" above the concrete NOW*, and you should have a minimum of 4".

Laying 2" full thickness pavers on top of that concrete will virtually guaranty that water will get into the house at the bottom plate and rot out the OSB sheathing.

As much as you want to lay the pavers, and as much as I was trying to come up with a way to do it, the way Brian said is really the only way ... because, whatever you do, you *do not want to raise* the height of your exterior in relation to the slab, which is already too little.

[Phil English]

Thanks guys...

Well, I guess you just confirmed my suspicions. Looks like if the wife wants pavers that slab is going to have to come out.

Appreciate the input.

[John Kogel]

Thanks guys...

Well, I guess you just confirmed my suspicions. Looks like if the wife wants pavers that slab is going to have to come out.

Appreciate the input.

Tell her you could jack the house up 6" to make room for the pavers. No wait, she might go for that. :) :)

John Kogel
Home Inspection in Victoria BC, Sidney, Sooke, Saanich, Duncan, Cobble Hill, Mill Bay, Chemainus, Crofton, home inspector (http://www.allsafehome.ca)

[Jerry Peck]

Tell her you could jack the house up 6" to make room for the pavers. No wait, she might go for that.


John,

Phil needs to do that *anyway*! :eek:


Well, at least jack it up 3" or so just to make 4" at the concrete (of course, there is that problem with the concrete being level with the ground and needing to be 6" above the ground :( ), so ... why not take 'er on up to 9"? :D

That'll leave the 3" inches needed for the 1" sand base under the pavers and the 2" for the pavers. :cool:

I shoulda thought of that, John. Dang! :)

[Phil English]

Uuughh, you guys are all I need! :)

So if I rip out the slab (4" thick), I really need to dig down so that I have at least 8 inches from the existing level of the slab. 4" of gravel, 1" of sand, 2 3/8" paver which brings me back just below my original height.

One question, do I have to frame the area I'm laying gravel into or just compact it up against the walls of the rather large hole I've dug?

The other option you've not mentioned is to sell the house and go and live in the wilderness somewhere, forgetting these stupid home improvement ideas altogether...

Phil.

[Jerry Peck]

Uuughh, you guys are all I need! :)

So if I rip out the slab (4" thick), I really need to dig down so that I have at least 8 inches from the existing level of the slab. 4" of gravel, 1" of sand, 2 3/8" paver which brings me back just below my original height.

Yes, however far down you go will depend on what you are putting in there. The critical thing is *to not* have the paver surface *any higher than* the existing surface, and there is no need to have the paver surface lower because it will be at ground level anyway.

Which all means you are basically stuck with what you have, and your first goal should be like that of a doctor "first, do no harm".


One question, do I have to frame the area I'm laying gravel into or just compact it up against the walls of the rather large hole I've dug?

I'd just compact the gravel and sand into the hole, as any form you put in would need to be removed and would then leave a gap for things to move out of place.


The other option you've not mentioned is to sell the house and go and live in the wilderness somewhere, forgetting these stupid home improvement ideas altogether...

I like Phil, has a sense of humor :cool: ... but even in the wilderness you would need to worry about sanitation after a while, then you'd want a roof over your head, and ... well, there you are - right back at "these stupid home improvement ideas". :)

[Brandon Whitmore]

You could always build a roof over the entire area. That way, water will never reach the patio surface to begin with. Then, with some careful detailing, you could have the surface level with the door threshold/ interior floor. (depends on if you are in termite country though).

[Christopher Gorton]

How about stamped concrete or do a painted surface instead?, Ive seen some that look really good in both stone and brick patterns, easy to keep clean, and cost effective.

[Jerry Peck]

How about stamped concrete


Stamped concrete would require another coating on top of what is already there, and he is already short on height above grade and concrete, thus that would only make his situation worse.

[Christopher Gorton]

Yes, taking out the slab would be necessary to do a stamped finish because of the height.
Stamped concrete on the replacement slab would be the finish instead of then setting pavers on top. Should have said I agreed on removal or just paint it.
Painting concrete has become quite an artform.

[Rick Hurst]

Phil,

Here's another suggestion below you lay down those pavers after removing that concrete.

Call in the local termite guy and treat that soil against the foundation if termites are an issue in your area.

I can tell you being a termite control guy, having to come in and treat after those pavers are put in is a pain in the arse.

If you try and drill between the pavers to inject chemical in the ground below, all you do is move the pavers about and then the wife comes out there complaining about the appearance of them and then wants you to pull them all out and reset them.

Best solution: Divorce her and let her have the home. Move on and enjoy your life. :D

rick

[Rick Hurst]

Yes, taking out the slab would be necessary to do a stamped finish because of the height.
Stamped concrete on the replacement slab would be the finish instead of then setting pavers on top. Should have said I agreed on removal or just paint it.
Painting concrete has become quite an artform.

I saw a patio a few weeks ago that the homeowner had used masking tape and taped off large squares on the concrete surface and then used a stain over the rest of the surface. Once the tape was removed, the area below the tape looked like grout lines.

Actually it looked nice and very inexpensive to do.

rick