View Full Version : Weep Screed

Joe Nernberg
06-03-2007, 07:40 PM
Concrete is poured about 3-inches "above" the weep screed. The pool deck is sloped toward the house (6-year old home). A small threshold drain has been installed but I believe the drain addresses the symptoms, not the problem.

This is frustrating because I am 99% certain that the muni inspector allowed this, the seller will be frustrated because she hired a licensed contractor to perform the work and the buyer really loves the home. I am certain that concrete cutting is the only reasonable solution. I just empathize with the other parties in this transaction though I know I am just the messenger. Explaining reverse polarity is an easier pill to swallow. Are others thick-skinned and not concerned about these situations? Not every seller is an ass.

Rod Aparicio
06-03-2007, 08:28 PM
Interesting topic Joe. I believe you are right about it addressing the symptoms and not the best solution to the problem. What I am more interested and concerned is knowing where the runoff water drains to, especially rainwater in times of winter. From the picture it looks like its going nowhere but foundation. yikes!

Jerry Peck
06-04-2007, 12:32 PM

"Weep screed", that means (to me) "frame with stucco", is that correct?

If so, I see larger problems then just drainage of the patio.

Joe Nernberg
06-04-2007, 05:14 PM
I also noted that the threshold drain is too close to the building. Besides rain/pool water gushing into wall cladding - what else do you see?

David Banks
06-04-2007, 05:21 PM
How about water gushing in door.

Jerry Peck
06-04-2007, 05:34 PM
*IF* it is frame (which you did not answer), then the framing is too close to the ground, the stucco does not stop at least 6" above the ground to provide for a termite inspection space, the door is at level with the patio, ...

Those will work for starters ... *IF* if it frame ...

Thom Walker
06-04-2007, 08:19 PM
Looking to the left, I would suggest that the tree is removed before it matures and damags the house/foundation.

Looking in that same area, it does appear to be stucco and the original termination is much too close to the grade. Unless that's really sandy soil water is going to pond during goose drowners. Any gutters on the place?

I empathize with your empathy, but as you said; you are the messenger and that is what they pay you for. Since you're not a code enforcer, all you're really doing is notifying them as to what may happen. Subs and flooding are no pleasant scenario either. If they love it that much, they'll probably ignore you and leave it as is until the damage occurs.

A swale with a grate to run the excess water off to the sides of the deck couldn't hurt, but you know reconfiguring the deck will always be the best answer.

As well, I don't see any stops for those doors to keep them from slamming into the hose bib or electrical fixtures. The receptacle appears to have the wrong cover for full exposre (it looks open).

Joe Nernberg
06-05-2007, 08:36 AM
Jerry: It is frame construction. I was not ignoring your question - I just forgot.

Thom: I never considered the doors flinging into the receptacle and the hose bibb. Good observation. Currently, the doors drag and stop on the concrete deck.

To everyone: Every time I think I have the answers, someone changes the questions.

Jerry Peck
06-05-2007, 12:03 PM

Don't worry about the doors and no door stops, that's what the hose reel is there for. :)

If the doors drag on the concrete, then there indeed is a problem as that means the concrete is: a) level with or higher than the recess the door closes too, if a bumper threshold; b) level with or high than the top of the saddle type threshold the door swings over.

Either way, the concrete patio is then as high as, or higher than, the interior floor.

Which means the wall framing is as close to grade as I suspected, and means that the stucco going down into grade is a perfect highway for termites to enter the structure undetected, until it is much to late.

Also, with the concrete patio at the level of the interior floor, that means the exterior wall sill plates are likely getting wet too. Not only is that not a good thing even for pressure treated wood, but it is an attractant for termites, they like damp conditions like that.

Are you getting the feeling that this is heading downhill, fast? :(

Chip O'Brian
06-05-2007, 01:09 PM
Question is the stucco EIFS or hard coat? I understand you used the term weep screed as normally refered in hard coat. It appears the system terminates a couple of inches above grade at left side of patio.
This was recently on finders fixers oh what a joke that can be sometime..

Thom Walker
06-05-2007, 03:24 PM
Whichever it is it has to be six inches off the grade. To do otherwise is framing suicide. To add injury, the concrete guy created a nice pond against the house. During heavy rains, that water will have nowhere to go.

I agree with you about those "flip shows." I think they're a disservice to the public.

Chip O'Brian
06-05-2007, 04:15 PM
It is recommended 6" above grade altough it is very common in Florida to see hard coat below grade and we only have wood frame in NW Fla. My question again is it hard coat or EIFS if EIFS the repair is not as costly. In addition I have seen a 4 - 6 " grade prior to landscaping on a new build several factors come into play. Still this will not fix the issue with negitive grade to building. Possible a french drain.

Jerry Peck
06-05-2007, 08:10 PM
It is recommended 6" above grade altough it is very common in Florida to see hard coat below grade and we only have wood frame in NW Fla.

Regardless how often you see it, Chip, it is still wrong each and every time you do see it.

On masonry, yes, up to 5/8" stucco can go all the way into the ground, but not on frame.

Thom Walker
06-05-2007, 08:38 PM
Look at it this way, Chip. When you have frame construction, everything rests on the sill plate. No matter how good everything else remains, if you rot the sill plate, nothing else can stand.
"It is recommended 6" above grade....
" R404.1.6 (2006 IRC) Height above finished grade. Concrete and masonry foundation walls shall extend above the finished grade adjacent to the foundation at all points a minimum of 4 inches (102mm) where masonry veneer is used and a minimum of 6 inches (152mm) elsewhere."