Insulation Levels/Values

[Jim Weyenberg]

Can anyone point me to an insulation level chart (Recommended levels per climate zone for walls and attics) and insulation R-value per inch per type of insulation?

I have a previously bankrupted new home builder, who has resurfaced under a new name, but same logo, (like we're not going to know it's him) And he's up to his old tricks, like under insulating then sealing the attic hatch off, hoping the Energy Star Inspector or the municipal inspector won't bother to look.

I just need something official on paper for my buyer and for his agent (for whom I have a great amount a respect, she one of the good ones) to go back at the builder for.

Thanks Guys

Jim Weyenberg
HouseMaster Inc.
NE. Wisconsin

[Jerry Peck]

Insulation/R-Values - Progress Energy (http://progress-energy.com/custservice/carres/energytips/rvalues.asp)

[Door Guy]

Check this link Energy Savers Tips: Insulation (http://www1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation.html) is this what your looking for?

[Jim Weyenberg]

That's perfect! Thanks Jerry and Door Guy. You guys are treasure.
Thanks Aagin

Jim Weyenebrg
HouseMaster Inc.
NE. Wisconsin

[DallasInsulation]

Door guy! Thanks for sharing the info. I checked the link and it really help me. We can talk soon if you want.

[Mary Beth Yannessa]

Hi Jim,

The best place to obtain information on the required insulation codes whether for home improvement work and/or for new home construction is Home : ENERGY STAR (http://www.energystar.gov). You will find a wealth of information on this site inluding a map of the country and the requirements.

Hope this website helps.

Mary Beth Yannessa
Tridon Industries, Inc.
Philadelphia Insulation and Fire Protection Contractor | Tridon Industries (http://www.tridonindustries.com)

[Robert Hronek]

Recommended Levels of Insulation : ENERGY STAR (http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation _table)

This map gives the climte zone along with minimum and target levels of insualtion.

Loose fill fiberglass is as low as 2.5 in
Loose fill cellulose 3.7in
Dense pack cellulose 3.5-3.6 in
BIBs 3.3 in
Open cell foam 3.6
Closed cell 6.5

An overlooked factor is convection and wind washing loss for fiberglass. When you see exposed fiberglass like on the back of a kneewall you can estimate R value of about 1/3 or state R value. I have seen estimates of R3 effective out of an R13 batt on the back of a kneewall. Convection loss in a leaky enclosed wall of 50%. Loose fill in attics are also subject to convenction and windwashing losses of 50%. Fiberglass is the least effective at blocking radiant heat in attic applications.

[Robert Hronek]

Jim

I reread you post. For R values you need to check your local building codes to see requirements. Loose fill insulation is subject to fluffing durin install that lowers its R value. Knowing how much loose fill was installed is the only way to know its R value. The manufacturor specifices how many pounds per square foot (coverage chart) to get the correct R value per inch. Blowing more air during the install will reslut in fluffier insulation with a lower R value per inch. It may have the correct depth but the R value can be lower.

[TR Platt]

Find out what code you are governed under. Once you know that you can probably find it at INTERNATIONAL CODE COUNCIL (http://publicecodes.citation.com/)

Refer to chapter 11 for the proper values depending on your climate zone.

Settled R-value is what you are looking for in blown-in insulation.

Is an EnergyStar rating a requirement of the municipality?

[DOUG HOERTH]

Jim,
Insulation levels for the thermal envelope could be a minimum of what the prescriptive insulation level is designed for or the use of the Wi RESCHECK.
The prescriptive method is a minimum of a R-49 for an attic, R-18 for walls.
But if a builder uses RECHECK or REM RATE for the energy work sheet(and 99.9% do use RECHECK) the insulation level can very. This is because their can be trade off's. For an example, more foundation insulation and wall insulation may allow for less insulation in the attic (maybe say R-30). In the end all the RESCHECK just has to pass energy code.
One thing that Wisconsin has passed in the last code cycle, was it is required for the builder to post on the electrical panel a certificate noting all insulation levels for the foundation, walls, slabs, attics, and u-values of doors and windows. And what method was used to calculate the energy worksheet either prescriptive, RESCHECK, or even REM RATE. This is want you should be looking for on all new homes. All so the attic is required to have an insulation marker every 300 square feet.

[Larry Morrison]

I may be able to help a little with this because I have also been in the insulation business since 1985.

Doug Hoerth, mentioned "Rescheck" and he is correct insulation values can vary...simply, there is no R-value "code" for say, an attic. If you have good wall insulation, windows with good U-Values, foundation insulation...etc. Rescheck may show the house passing with R-30 or less.

The FTC has some very specific Rules because of widespread Cheating (fluffing) in the insulation industry.

If you have customers buying a new home, refer to this (http://frwebgate3.access.gpo.gov/cgi-bin/TEXTgate.cgi?WAISdocID=mjdzL1/1/1/0&WAISaction=retrieve) and demand the contractor produce what he is legally required to!

Sec. 460.16 What new home sellers must tell new home buyers.

If you are a new home seller, you must put the following information
in every sales contract: The type, thickness, and R-value of the
insulation that will be installed in each part of the house. There is an
exception to this rule. If the buyer signs a sales contract before you
know what type of insulation will be put in the house, or if there is a
change in the contract, you can give the buyer a receipt stating this
information as soon as you find out.


Sec. 460.17 What installers must tell their customers.

If you are an installer, you must give your customers a contract or
receipt for the insulation you install. For all insulation except loose-
fill and aluminum foil, the receipt must show the coverage area,
thickness, and R-value of the insulation you installed. The receipt must
be dated and signed by the installer. To figure out the R-value of the
insulation, use the data that the manufacturer gives you. If you put
insulation in more than one part of the house, put the data for each
part on the receipt. You can do this on one receipt, as long as you do
not add up the coverage areas or R-values for different parts of the
house. Do not multiply the R-value for one inch by the number of inches
you installed. For loose-fill, the receipt must show the coverage area,
initial installed thickness, minimum settled thickness, R-value, and the
number of bags used. For aluminum foil, the receipt must show the number
and thickness of the air spaces, the direction of heat flow, and the R-
value.

Also the IECC (Insulation code) requires that a certificate be posted in a prominent spot. It used to be customary to post these in the attic access but a summery of R-values it is now Standard to post this in the Electrical panel. The "standard certificate" the installer is required to post needs to show all of the information shown in 460.17. If this is a new home, I would recommend in your report they Demand the "signed" Certificate from the installer!