Inspection tools

[Andy Petrick]

Hello my name is Andy Petrick and I am just starting a home inspection buisness. I have a list of tools but I was looking for a little help in building a list of tools from poeple that are in the buissnes. Thanks for any help.

[Raymond Wand]

Flat head screw driver with assortment of heads
flashlight
adjustable wrench - small
torpedo level
moisture meter
12 volt spot light
ladder
safety glasses
wooden tongue depressor
pens/markers
band-aids
small binoculars
thermometer
biz cards
compass
marble or ball bearing
white out
extra pair of shoes to wear inside house
voltage sniffer
outlet tester w/ gfci test button
digital camera
tape measure

[A.D. Miller]

Flat head screw driver with assortment of heads
For the screwdriver or the operator?


torpedo level
For inspecting boat houses?


wooden tongue depressor
For agents?


band-aids
For fathers, uncles, and brothers who tag along with their inane questions?


marble or ball bearing
For those boring days?

Boy, those Canucks are some strange folks . . .:D

[Raymond Wand]

We are like we are because of neighbours like you! :D

[A.D. Miller]

We are like we are because of neighbours like you! :D

RW: You mean "u", like the extra one you tossed into the word neighbors? Stick with your French and leave the English to us . . .:D

[Raymond Wand]

AD what I like about you is that you are wordy err.... sorry I meant to say worldly. ;)

[A.D. Miller]

AD what I like about you is that you are wordy err.... sorry I meant to say worldly. ;)

RW: My wife says "other worldly" . . .:p

[Raymond Wand]

Andy

Here is the kit I carry.

[Michael Thomas]

I always keep my trusty torpedo level handy...







































in case I encounter a hostile sub panel.

[A.D. Miller]

I recently did a pre-pour inspection for a new home being constructed in the Castle Hills area. I used a ZipLevel Pro 2000 to determine that the center of the north 60-foot long form board was about 1-1/4" out of level. The builder claimed to have repaired this and sent me the following photo as evidence:

[Rick Hurst]

Don't forget to pack a nice cool drink on those hot days in the summer. :D

rick

[Bruce Ramsey]

Electrician' pouch on a belt loaded with the following:
Blade screwdriver, large
Blade screwdriver, regular
Phillips screwdriver
Nut driver (HVAC access)
GFCI tester (2)
Thermometer
Paper towel (to wet and test mwave oven)
Moisture Meter
Razor Knife (cut wallpaper & paint at electric panels)
Telescoping magnet (retrieve dropped panel screws)
Bright Flashlight
Blue painters tape (buyer to mark cosmetic stuff)
Cell phone
Measuring Tape
Camera in case on tool belt

Take with me to the front door:
Contract and Pen
Broomstick (for testing smoke detectors)
Watchdog water alarm (for dishwashers)
Painters drop cloth(keep house clean under attic access)
Clean set of booties

In crawl:
Tyvek bunny suit
M95 mask
Leather gloves
Patella Knee pads (expensive but worth it)
Camera
Flashlight
Headlight
Cell phone
Surveys Tape (to mark problem areas)

In truck:
LG Ladder
Telesteps ladder
Binoculars
2' bubble level
Yard sign
Business cards
Laptop
Extra batteries
Extra flashlights
Water pressure gage
Toilet Paper
extra tyvek suits and booties
extra gloves

Everywhere:
Pen
Business cards in wallet
Daytimer

[Travis Sallee]

There are some good things mentioned on this post. Here is a couple items with

Respirator (Mold rated - There is lots of nasty stuff down in those crawl spaces)
Coveralls - (Waterproof if you have much moisture there - Tyvek are okay, but I ended up getting a heavier duty version from Lacrosse
Heavy Duty Knee Pads
Ladder (Little Giant - Can't get more convenient)
Flashlight (Ultra Stinger - Brightest Bulb on Market)
Rock Pick Hammer (If you are going to be doing any WDO stuff)
I wear a headlamp down in the crawl spaces.

Other than that, getting what is on this list will prepare you well.

[A.D. Miller]

Respirator (Mold rated - There is lots of nasty stuff down in those crawl spaces)


TS: I am not a believer in the whole mold scare thing. I use my respirator for meetings with agents.


Coveralls - (Waterproof if you have much moisture there - Tyvek are okay, but I ended up getting a heavier duty version from Lacrosse

TS: I bought turtle-neck fishing waders for the meetings mentioned above.


Heavy Duty Knee Pads

TS: Those are only for advanced groveling.


Ladder (Little Giant - Can't get more convenient)

TS: Little Giants are too heavy. Jaws, from the land of the Ice and Snow, are much better.


Flashlight (Ultra Stinger - Brightest Bulb on Market)

TS: Too expensive with a short battery life.


Rock Pick Hammer (If you are going to be doing any WDO stuff)

TS: Handy when someone locks the door behind you.


I wear a headlamp down in the crawl spaces.

TS: That's a miner point.

[Andy Petrick]

Thanks Raymond and everyone else for your input.

[Eric Russell]

I'm really picking up some good ideas, guys.

I keep most all my tools in an Occidental Leather Pro commercial tool bag on my hip. These include my SureTest receptacle tester, the trusty Ridgid mini 12V driver with a phillips, flat, and 5/16 nut driver bits. There's an infrared thermometer, a mini maglite flash light, a voltage tester (for those ungrounded 2-prong outlets), a moisture meter, a torpedo level, a pair of marbles (for when I feel like I've lost mine), a non-contact voltage detector, a long-frame paint roller frame (cut off app. 8" above the handle and slightly sharpened, for a probe), a NACHI microwave tester, and a rag (for drying my hands after checking underneath a sink).

The trusty Ultra Stinger (which does NOT have a short battery life) :D hangs from the loop on the tool belt, and I've got a spare in the truck on charge in case I use the battery up or the bulb blows, or I drop it from the roof, etc. There's a mini maglite in the tool pouch and another in my thigh pocket on my 6-pocket Carharrts.

In addition, I wear TYVEK elastic coveralls and a Bullard Rescue Helmet with a chin strap, along with gel kneepads, Comfort Crawl gloves, a respirator, and eye protection for the crawlspaces.

I shed the TYVEK for the attics, and my Little Giant 17' ladder (they are a little heavy), 4' level, and a Ridgid SeeSnake (which is for sale) round out the rest of the tools.

Plenty of pens, biz cards, caps and brochures for the agents!!! Gotta market yourself when you can!

Don't forget to keep your cellphone with you at all times! Ya never know what might happen, and I don't want to waste time and incur further injury crawling back to the truck to call 911 in the event of an emergency.

Finally, I drive a 2008 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax diesel with a cross box in the bed and two fender well boxes mounted on the sides where I keep all this stuff. Extra batteries for the infrared thermometer, digital camera, moisture meter, etc.

[Eric Russell]

Oh yeah...I almost forgot...you need to be professional LOOKING, as well as professional acting, and remember to use as few technical terms that the average homebuyer won't understand and be able to describe it to them so that they DO understand. Right AD?:D

[A.D. Miller]

Oh yeah...I almost forgot...you need to be professional LOOKING, as well as professional acting, and remember to use as few technical terms that the average homebuyer won't understand and be able to describe it to them so that they DO understand. Right AD?:D

ER: Aren't you forgetting the sandwich board?

[Jerry Peck]

I recently did a pre-pour inspection for a new home being constructed in the Castle Hills area. I used a ZipLevel Pro 2000 to determine that the center of the north 60-foot long form board was about 1-1/4" out of level. The builder claimed to have repaired this and sent me the following photo as evidence:

AD,

What's the problem? The bubble is still "within the lines" ... :D

What they fail to realize is that represents about, say, 1/32" per foot out of level, taking a 60 foot long form, that would be 60 x 0.03125 = 1.875 or 1-7/8", and that much "out of level" shown in your photo may well be 1/16" per foot, making it 3-3/4" out of level.

BUT ... a torpedo level can fit in your back pocket, a REAL level won't fit there (read REAL as meaning a Smart Level or the Sears digital equivalent of it for 1/2 the price).

While your Zip Level 2000 is nice and can do configurations other than straight-line-of-sight, an electronic level with a laser will give very accurate straight-line-of-sight readings with the laser beam. My Sears electronic has a built-in laser, my Smart Level does not, so I have to place a laser on top of it (however, my Smart Level is from 1995 and my Sears electronic level is from 2008, so the newer Smart Levels may have a built-in laser too??).

[Bruno Talotta]

A cheap tape measure with a backup. Clients are always asking to borrow them and sometimes forget to return them.
Yesterday I found a coat hanger handy when I was inspecting a sump pump. The opening was small and the pump was too far down for me to reach the float. The coat hanger did the trick and it's a good thing. The pump was not operational.

[A.D. Miller]

JP: My SmartLevel is from the stone ages with aluminum and mahogany frame - no laser, and someone stole my 8' frame, so all I have left is a 4' and a 2'. With or without a laser though, at least for me, they are not as easy to use when leveling a slab form.

But then, I'm old fashioned I guess. I still have my old optical dumpy level with its oak tripod. It takes up a corner of my office . . . out to pasture.

[Bob Harper]

You should add a 4 in 1 personal alarm: CO, LEL, H2S, O2

You should always give your schedule to someone who will be expecting you to check in after a pre-arranged time frame. If you fail to call in, your cell phone gets a call. If they cannot reach you after a second call within 5 minutes, the Realtor gets a call. If they are not on site or cannot be reached, a call goes out to 911. When you disappear into an attic, basement, roof or crawlspace, you should notifiy the agent/ client where you are going and approximately how long to give you before they go check on you.

You should carry a high quality low level CO monitor in your jump kit for your protection as well as those present at the inspection. Your contract should state your action levels such as evacuate the building at >35ppm CO or >20% LEL of combustible gas.

Always carry a spare camera battery, 11 in 1 screwdriver, backup pocket flashlight and a loud whistle.

HTH,
Bob

[A.D. Miller]

BH: All good ideas.

[Rick Cantrell]

Although some may not think of this as a tool, I'll add, a copy of the IRC.

[Bruce Ramsey]

You should add a 4 in 1 personal alarm: CO, LEL, H2S, O2

You should carry a high quality low level CO monitor in your jump kit for your protection as well as those present at the inspection. Your contract should state your action levels such as evacuate the building at >35ppm CO or >20% LEL of combustible gas.



Bob can you recommend sources for personal alarms?

[Patrick McCaffery]

Raymond,

What do you use the tounge depresser and white out for?

[A.D. Miller]

Raymond,

What do you use the tounge depresser and white out for?

PM: While he is examining the interior of the lying-ass seller's agent's mouth for any sign of a single word of truth, with the tongue depressor in one hand, he is with the other hand doctoring the equally devious seller's disclosure statement in order that it may contain a morsel or two of honesty.:eek:

[Raymond Wand]

Patrick,

In addition to AD's uses, the tongue depressor is non conductive. It can be used to push wires out of the way in the electrical panel, or used to probe for insulation around outlets and switches.

As to white-out (the tape type) its great to correct mistakes on the contract or report.

[John Dirks Jr]

When it comes to flashlights, shell out some dough and get good ones. The ability to see is most important. I like the Fenex TK12 with rechargeable Li batt.

My most used inspection tools are flashlights, screwdrivers, ladders and digital cameras. If could only pick 4 things, that's what they would be.

[Raymond Wand]

I didn't think Mag lites where very good at least those w/ incandescent bulbs, until I replaced the bulb with a 3 watt LED.

[John Dirks Jr]

At an inspection yesterday my client had a Shurefire with LED. My Fenix blew it out of the water...totally.

[Nolan Kienitz]

As to white-out (the tape type) its great to correct mistakes on the contract or report.

Raymond,

Yes, but it is dang hard to get all those white strips off my monitor!!! :D

[Rick Bunzel]

I am with John Dirks - keep it simple. The essential tools used on every inspections are Ultra-Stinger, Digital Camera with 10X optical zoom, SureTest, Combo Screw driver, Infrared Thermometer and towel. I have other tools in my electricians tool belt but they're nice to have but not essential.


Friday Harbor Home Inspections - San Juan Island Home Inspections (http://www.paccrestinspections.com/friday-harbor-home-inspection.htm)
Orcas Village and East Sound Home Inspections; Orcas Island Home Inspections (http://www.paccrestinspections.com/OrcasIsland-home-inspection.htm)

[Scott Patterson]

I am with John Dirks - keep it simple. The essential tools used on every inspections are Ultra-Stinger, Digital Camera with 10X optical zoom, SureTest, Combo Screw driver, Infrared Thermometer and towel. I have other tools in my electricians tool belt but they're nice to have but not essential.


Friday Harbor Home Inspections - San Juan Island Home Inspections (http://www.paccrestinspections.com/friday-harbor-home-inspection.htm)
Orcas Village and East Sound Home Inspections; Orcas Island Home Inspections (http://www.paccrestinspections.com/OrcasIsland-home-inspection.htm)

That is pretty much what I use 90% of the time. I might add that a good moisture meter like a Protimeter SM should be on the do not do without list!

I hate wearing those dang tool pouch belts so I go for sticking what I can in my pockets. If I need something else or more tools I head back to my tool bag in the kitchen.

[Eric Russell]

Anybody know of a good deal on a GE Surveymaster? I've got the Aquant non-destructive, but I need a pin-type for some work.

[Bob Harper]

Bob can you recommend sources for personal alarms?

LOL! Bruce, I wish but there are so many and they are exploding with new models all the time. This is a hot new area. You can spend as little as $450 up to $3,250 (Drager) with a full 'confined space kit'. These kits include calibration equipment, chargers and data logged downloading. There are several nice monitors in the $600-800 range such as BW Tech. and MSA. There is a cool new tiny one from RKI industries that will just about tie your shoes for you (GX-2009 model). There are also RAE, Sperian, and a whole bunch of others. I'm nursing along my single gas CO alarm from Scott Bacharach, which as alerted me on numerous ocasions including a hotel lobby at a convention, airplane, and in traffic daily. It was esp. fun when it read 17ppm in a training room of an HVAC distributor. Their LP fork lifts were running on the other side of the wall. I ALWAYS carry it with me on trips and place it on the podium when I teach.

Note these monitors do not rely just on a Time Weighted Avg. but many offer this feature as well. Otherwise, if you crawl into a vapor cloud or oxygen deficient atmosphere, it will alert at once. Nicer units have a pump, which makes it more reliable to the point it samples from farther away but that eats up battery power, too. All these monitors will require a new O2 sensor every 12-24 months just like combustion analyzers do. It is best to get the calibration kit as sending it in for cal. checks can get very expensive and take weeks.

Bruce, all I can say is do some searching for "confined space alarms" and read up. Compare features, warranties (2yr is std.) and cal. kit/ charger. Fire Service, EMS and inspector supply houses carry them. I know one of these alarms saved the day at a local grocery store when the bake oven fan was off resulting in 33 CO cases. EMS had one on their jump bag, which alerted them.

Yes, they are expensive but what is your life worth? Rule #1 is to come home safe every night. Think of it as a cost of doing business just like phones and insurance.
Bob

[Patrick McCaffery]

Thank you Raymond and A.D. too,

I happened to be at a home when a Energy Auditor was doing and audit and he showed me how to use a wooden skewer for checking insulation.

[John Kogel]

Flat head screw driver with assortment of heads
flashlight
adjustable wrench - small
torpedo level
moisture meter
12 volt spot light
ladder
safety glasses
wooden tongue depressor
pens/markers
band-aids
small binoculars
thermometer
biz cards
compass
marble or ball bearing
white out
extra pair of shoes to wear inside house
voltage sniffer
outlet tester w/ gfci test button
digital camera
tape measureGood list, Raymond but where's your .........
Magnet on a handle for retrieving panel screws (and checking metal roofs)? :)
Mirror on a handle for reading hidden labels
Magnifier for old guy with bad eyes
Water pressure guage for that one guy that wants you to use it. :)
Power screwdriver (does not need to be a Milwaukee, either, Bob)
Piece of stiff wire for hooking things, like insulation in walls
Tape, duct, clear packing, electrical, for fixing things you break, or to put the blanket back on the tank.
X-acto knife and a narrow scraper, for cutting paint and drywall plaster around the panel cover
Multitool or pliers or both for opening access panels and nailing them back in place
Clean sheet and a garbage bag goes with me to the attic hatch
A few napkins for the dirty old fireplace damper
There's more, but that's a good start.
I have spares of all the essentials, too. Some of the spare stuff goes in my little condo pack. Condo panel covers are almost always painted into the wall, :cool: so you need ..
Knife, scraper, magnifier, outlet tester, multi-bit screwdriver, tape measure. To that, I add the moisture meter and the power screwdriver.
In the truck, a 4 foot level, 3 or 4 ladders, and my camera pole.
And a shovel, used it once last year to see inside a pit.
But I don't have a tongue depressor. :(
Can I use a coffee stir stick?

[chris mcintyre]

Good list, Raymond but where's your .........
Magnet on a handle for retrieving panel screws (and checking metal roofs)? :)
Mirror on a handle for reading hidden labels
Magnifier for old guy with bad eyes
Water pressure guage for that one guy that wants you to use it. :)
Power screwdriver (does not need to be a Milwaukee, either, Bob)
Piece of stiff wire for hooking things, like insulation in walls
Tape, duct, clear packing, electrical, for fixing things you break, or to put the blanket back on the tank.
X-acto knife and a narrow scraper, for cutting paint and drywall plaster around the panel cover
Multitool or pliers or both for opening access panels and nailing them back in place
Clean sheet and a garbage bag goes with me to the attic hatch
A few napkins for the dirty old fireplace damper
There's more, but that's a good start.
I have spares of all the essentials, too. Some of the spare stuff goes in my little condo pack. Condo panel covers are almost always painted into the wall, :cool: so you need ..
Knife, scraper, magnifier, outlet tester, multi-bit screwdriver, tape measure. To that, I add the moisture meter and the power screwdriver.
In the truck, a 4 foot level, 3 or 4 ladders, and my camera pole.
And a shovel, used it once last year to see inside a pit.
But I don't have a tongue depressor. :(
Can I use a coffee stir stick?

Hey John, I think I found your tool box!

[John Kogel]

Hey John, I think I found your tool box!Looks a bit like it, but mine's got handlebars and wheels. :)

[Bruce Ramsey]

LOL! Bruce, I wish but there are so many and they are exploding with new models all the time. This is a hot new area. You can spend as little as $450 up to $3,250 (Drager) with a full 'confined space kit'.

Bruce, all I can say is do some searching for "confined space alarms" and read up. Compare features, warranties (2yr is std.) and cal. kit/ charger. Fire Service, EMS and inspector supply houses carry them. I know one of these alarms saved the day at a local grocery store when the bake oven fan was off resulting in 33 CO cases. EMS had one on their jump bag, which alerted them.

Yes, they are expensive but what is your life worth? Rule #1 is to come home safe every night. Think of it as a cost of doing business just like phones and insurance.
Bob

Thanks Bob. I was a member of a confined space rescue team for a few years. I have been in quite a few small places with questionable air quality. We used multiple gas monitors that did not perform continous monitoring. Wearing SCBA, we were really more concerned about LEL and UEL.

Looks like I need to do some shopping around to find a monitor that will work under typical HI conditions.

[Chris Stichter]

Get a hold of an old golf club, cut of the clubhead with a hacksaw & you've got a good tool for probing for dry rot and reaching smoke alarms.


The clients usually insert a lame golf joke when they see it...to which I chuckle and begin a good rapport.;)

Chris

[Vern Heiler]

Get a hold of an old golf club, cut of the clubhead with a hacksaw & you've got a good tool for probing for dry rot and reaching smoke alarms.


The clients usually insert a lame golf joke when they see it...to which I chuckle and begin a good rapport.;)

Chris

Put a piece of tape at 30". Comes in handy for the picture.

[A.D. Miller]

Home inspector services are easily available from online and you can hire Certified Home Inspector from Certified Home Inspector for Home Inspection Service in Torrance, Manhattan Beach (http://equityinspection.com/) site also!! This site is really good and this site has Certified home inspectors!!!

SS: I assume that you meant "certifiable" home inspectors, right? :D

[TcDuhon]

I am in the same boat as the OP. Not to hijack the thread but what kind of vehicles do you drive as your work transportation? I have a compact hatchback car. the only tool of significant size is a ladder and I have a little giant type that fits perfectly in the truck when folded up. I know most inspectors roll in trucks or SUV's. Would pulling up in a compact hatchback car to do a inspection look unprofessional or bad?

[Scott Patterson]

I am in the same boat as the OP. Not to hijack the thread but what kind of vehicles do you drive as you work transportation? I have a compact hatchback car. the only tool of significant size is a ladder and I have a little giant type that fits perfectly in the truck when folded up. I know most inspectors roll in trucks or SUV's. Would pulling up in a compact hatchback car to do a inspection look unprofessional or bad?

I have had an F-150 club cab (4 doors) for many years. Plenty of room in the back seat (folded down) for all of the gadgets, and the LG 17 sits in the bed. It is a comfortable ride and my petite 6'2" frame fits in it just fine.

But,,,,,,, I need to downsize for better mileage. It will most likely be either a Ford Escape or one of the Hyundai or KIA SUV's. Whatever I get my LG-17 must fit in the rear.

The F-150 on a good day gets around 16 City and 20 Highway mpg.

[Lisa Turner]

Levels . . . how about a smart phone level? Just got this app for the DROID phone for free and it is able to be calibrated - appears to be every bit as accurate as my smart level and a lot more convenient. What will they think of next.

[A.D. Miller]

Levels . . . how about a smart phone level? Just got this app for the DROID phone for free and it is able to be calibrated - appears to be every bit as accurate as my smart level and a lot more convenient. What will they think of next.

LT: Very cool . . .

[Jack Feldmann]

There is a similar one for Apple i-phone and i-Pod touch, but AD will never use that one.
It also has a plumb bob.

[Lisa Turner]

Yes, in fact there were so many tool apps it was hard to pick them. But I would guess that if you could prove that the tool in electronic form was accurate, you could legitimately use them on the inspections. Gee, in the year 2030 our tool belts will be gone?

Great contributions by all on the tool and equipment lists, (and of course all the other threads as well) this is a terrific forum.

[Darrel Hood]

I drive a Hyundai Elantra. I have a collapsible ladder in the trunk and a 5' step ladder in the back seat. I have never had any bad feed back. It has served me well now for 5 years. My wife's Suburban is my back up for those rare occasions when I need more space (maybe three times a year).

Darrel Hood
DILIGENT PROPERTY SERVICES
(936)827-7664

[Hunter Hoffman]

That is pretty much what I use 90% of the time. I might add that a good moisture meter like a Protimeter SM should be on the do not do without list!

I hate wearing those dang tool pouch belts so I go for sticking what I can in my pockets. If I need something else or more tools I head back to my tool bag in the kitchen.

I to hate the bags and can't find a one that is comfortable in most situations and the kitchen is where I stag my beginning also. I'm glad to hear that I'm not all nuts!

[mathew stouffer]

botl cutters. Keep them in your truck;)

[Rich Goeken]

But I don't have a tongue depressor. :(
Can I use a coffee stir stick?[/quote]

From working in communications, a small non-conducting probe is the best. Go and get Chinese for lunch and ask for chopsticks. Use them for lunch, if you can, and then you have a strong non-conducting probe. ;)

[A.D. Miller]

There is a similar one for Apple i-phone and i-Pod touch, but AD will never use that one.
It also has a plumb bob.

JF: You are soooo right!

[jackt0402]

Hi. I am new here and in the business.

I started using a computer on-site while it was on the kitchen counter. I noticed that the counter was too low, both ergonomically and hard to read through my trifocal glasses. I tried using a 6" high cardboard box that folded up (came from the post office), but it was kind of hokey. I spun my wheels about what I could use, from making some sort of fold-up wooden thingamajig, or some kind of Japanese folding box, but wasn't successfu in finding a solution. Then, I found a fold-up stool that stands 9 inches tall. It's a little tall, but if I decide to cut it down an inch or so, that can be done.

Here's a link to the EZ Foldz stool at your local ACE Hardware store
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1378227

and a big picture of the stool
http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACEBW-1126417dt.jpg

No more stooping over the computer, causing neck and back fatigue. No more spreading legs to lower down to the computer, causing undue pressure on ankles and lower legs.

Have a good one,
Jack

[Derek Lewis]

Scott,
I drove and E150 for years, loved the carrying capacity, hated the gas mileage. Bought a 2010 Escape last August. What a dream. I am able to store a 13 and 17' LG ladders. Tool kit, brief case, back up supplies, in other words all the essentials that we HI's use on a daily basis. I used to come home after a two or three inspection day and felt like I was beat up. Now when I finish my day after riding in the escape I still feel pretty good.

Regarding portable seats. I found a folding stool at Walmarts, that sits 24" high (perfect for kitchen counter height 36"), when folded it is less than three inches thick. On one inspection my client was a woman who weighed over three hundred pounds. When I was not using the stool, she was. So I know the stool will support three hundred pounds. The most common comment I hear is from agents asking where they can buy one.

Speaking of Milwaukee tools, I purchased their combo tool kit, consisting of a bore scope and cordless drill. I use it for furnace inspections, looking behind stored items, insulation etc, etc. Paid $249 for the kit, The drill has a light that turns on when you are using it, makes putting screws back into electric service panels in dark location a breeze.

Add to the list of items to keep on hand, toilet paper. You will be a hit with female clients and female agents.

I also carry a portable heater during the winter months (comes in handy 4 or 5 times a year, does not take up much space and everybody at the inspection will appreciate the warmth), in the hot summer months I take a small portable personal fan that operates on batteries and AC.

I also keep an assortment of screws in plastic prescription bottle, never know when you need them.

I also keep a supply of Electric service panel bolts on hand to replace some idiots pointed sheet metal or drywall screws that I seem to find on at least one out of five inspections.

For us HI's in the north, I also recommend keeping disposable hand and toe warmers for the house with out heat.

I carry a change of clothes just in case.

Add to that a pair of rubber boots.

On some of Little Giant copy cats, the pads are made of hard plastic, usually black. these will mark the wall every time (not so with the LG's). A cheap solution, cover the ends that will contact the wall with a pair of old gloves.

My latest addition is a wooden screw together painters pole. I take two sections, the handle part and one of the extensions that has been planed down to a tapered point, about 3/8 " (looks like the end of a chop stick). Great tool for the vertically challenged HI. Makes testing those smoke alarms on 9' ceilings a breeze. Also a lot safer for lifting the float valve in the sump.

For you HI's that are tall and are doing your reports on a lap top. One of our inspectors that is 6'5" uses a fold out computer stand that sits on the counter top, has room for a lap top and mouse. Says it relieves his back stress.

You guys have made some great recommendations that I will be adding to my bring to the inspection list of essentials.


Derek Lewis

[Al Wright]

I recently did a pre-pour inspection for a new home being constructed in the Castle Hills area. I used a ZipLevel Pro 2000 to determine that the center of the north 60-foot long form board was about 1-1/4" out of level. The builder claimed to have repaired this and sent me the following photo as evidence:

Well at least he has the first 9" level :D

[Thomas McKay]

Boy do inspectors love there tools, most of them are just gimics to make you look like you know what you are doing. Less is best! I recommend using tools which suit your needs, develop your own style and don't get to complicated you will scare the hell out of the real estate agent and never see them again. Do carry a portable hand held screw driver it really saves time looking in the panel box. Also don't forget to have a "T-Bar" wrench in the trunk of your car it will make you a hero when the agent fails to have the water turned on at the street. Don't ever use a golf ball or marble to check if a floor is level, you can use your flash light to do that. Rolling a marble or golf ball on the floor is just dumb looking. Sticking any thing in the electrical panel box is just looking for trouble once you light up one of them you will never do it again. Be careful with your tools. :p

[Steven Bynum]

If you are looking for a great flashlight, checkout the 5.11 tactical light for life. They are expensive, but with no batteries to change and a 90 second full recharge time, how can you go worng?

I swear by mine and now they even have a smaller size to boot!

Check it out here...

5.11 Tactical Light for Life LED Flashlight Free Shipping SAVE $20 (http://www.lapolicegear.com/511-tactical-uc3400-53000-flashlight.html)

[Philippe Heller]

If you work on top-hinged panels (usually at the exterior), you should get a Panel Pal, too. It's cheap and can keep you from getting electrocuted by resting the panel cover on your head.

[JB Thompson]

I have had an F-150 club cab (4 doors) for many years. Plenty of room in the back seat (folded down) for all of the gadgets, and the LG 17 sits in the bed. It is a comfortable ride and my petite 6'2" frame fits in it just fine.

But,,,,,,, I need to downsize for better mileage. It will most likely be either a Ford Escape or one of the Hyundai or KIA SUV's. Whatever I get my LG-17 must fit in the rear.

The F-150 on a good day gets around 16 City and 20 Highway mpg.

You're right on the nose with gas mileage with an F150. But I can't bring myself to using a car. I can't see pulling up to an inspection in a PT Cruiser, HHR or Scion box car. It doesn't seem professional (in my warped head).

A small SUV or van is OK, but I like trucks and this gave me an excuse to buy one :D.

I bought this one used and it came with the topper (with which I have a love/hate relationship).

If any of you inspect aerobic septic systems, I use a 4 ft. painters extension with a 4" inch paint roller handle screwed to the end of it. This works for lifting floats.

[JB Thompson]

Scott,

I also keep an assortment of screws in plastic prescription bottle, never know when you need them.
Derek Lewis


Good idea. I have a magnet that has my bits on it for taking off electric cabinet covers. There are a few extra screws on it, but I like your idea better. thx

[Michael Garrity]

I'm waiting on someone to say that he rolls up in an old fire truck and use the extension ladder on the truck for roof inspections.How many tools should you carry?Very few.Buy all the toys that you want but you might use it once or twice and then it will stay in the bag.Did someone mention bolt cutters!!!! 4ft level? Tool belts are fine until you scratch a door or piece of furniture.We used to built houses with less tools than some home inspectors seem to carry.Whatever floats your boat as the saying goes.
The best tool.Good communication with the client.It prevents a lot of problems.

[Thomas McKay]

"The best tool.Good communication with the client.It prevents a lot of problems."

You got that right Micheal, we tend to play with our tools too much which leads to ignoring the client and sometimes missing the obvious. ;)

[Ken Rowe]

4ft level?

A 4 foot level is great for showing a bulging foundation wall or settled foundation. It stays in my truck in its case unless I need it.

[Jerry Peck]

Boy do inspectors love there tools, most of them are just gimics to make you look like you know what you are doing. Less is best! I recommend using tools which suit your needs, develop your own style and don't get to complicated you will scare the hell out of the real estate agent and never see them again. Do carry a portable hand held screw driver it really saves time looking in the panel box. Also don't forget to have a "T-Bar" wrench in the trunk of your car it will make you a hero when the agent fails to have the water turned on at the street. Don't ever use a golf ball or marble to check if a floor is level, you can use your flash light to do that. Rolling a marble or golf ball on the floor is just dumb looking. Sticking any thing in the electrical panel box is just looking for trouble once you light up one of them you will never do it again. Be careful with your tools. :p

I must say that basically everything you said is ... really screwed up! :eek:

First you advise HIs not to do a better job by using the tools needed, THEN you tell them to violate all kinds of laws and ordinances, and common sense, by telling them to turn the water on when the water is turned off at the meter! :eek:

Holy crapola! :rolleyes:

[Eric Russell]

Jerry,

I was wondering when someone was gonna chime in on the water being turned off. No gas, no electric, no water...no inspection. I'll come back when the utes are on, but there is a charge for that also. That's the realtor's responsible...on both sides.

Also, does anyone use one of the telescoping ladders? I was thinking about getting one for those tight attic accesses in those narrow little closets that the LG can't fit into.

[jackt0402]

I have two ladders, a five-foot stepladder and a 12 1/2 foot Telesteps. Each has its purpose, and I usually start with the 5-footer if the ceilings are on the lower side. It also serves as a platform to open the hatch and push the cover aside. I have used the Telesteps to push open the hatch, but it can sometimes result in marking painted surfaces. We did a condo the other day with the hatch in a smallish closet with closet organization stuff on all walls--and the ceiling was high enough to keep me from using the stepladder. So, I took the Telesteps ladder up to the second floor as well. It did the job--actually, I really like it for its simplicity, light weight, and compact size when collapsed--always impresses whoever sees me use it.

Moral of the story: There will always be some applications that require specialized tools.

Regards,
Jack

[Raymond Wand]

Jeffrey Home Inspection (http://jeffreyhomeinspection.blogspot.com/)

Also see post 13
http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/building-envelope-home-inspection-commercial-inspection/17950-throw-away-your-ladder.html

I think I would be staying away from telescopic ladders.

[A.D. Miller]

The best tool.Good communication with the client.

TM: Nope. The best tool is your brain. Feel around up between your ears. It's in there somewhere.


we tend to play with our tools too much which leads to ignoring the client and sometimes missing the obvious.

TM: You are, of course, speaking for yourself when you mention that you play around with your tools too much, right? Which one in particular, as if I had to ask?:D

[Bob Harper]

I am truly sorry for Mr. Jeffery's injuries but.........

This is not a courtroom and we don't have all the facts. Has this case been litigated? Was there operator error? What exactly was the failure? I have a Telesteps that is about 15 yrs old. The locking tabs stick sometimes but I read the instructions and know I cannot use the ladder unless ALL those tabs under the rungs pop out. I also use it knowing at 235 lbs, I'm violating the Type II rating just by using it without tools or change in my pockets. I am careful to observe the OSHA guidelines for 4:1 aspect/ ratio when I set it up but, as most of you, I don't observe the 3 feet above the upper contact point most of the time when I use it, esp. in attic hatches. I use it at my own risk with knowledge of its limitations and my responsibility for use.

As for the accident, Mr. Jeffery stated he was 'lucky' that the bystander Realtor took him to the local Canadian MASH 4077. He was diagnosed with a C-2, C-3 compression fracture of the spine and an open Fx of the wrist. Folks, this is WHY you call 911 here in the States and let trained paramedics stabilize and immobilize you then transport you to a definitive care facility so there is not further injury and you get there alive. NEVER, try to move or transport anyone involved in a fall, is knocked unconscious, has obvious fractures, etc. Call EMS and let the pros do it.

As for the superiority of rigid ladders, just understand ladder litigation and falls are consistently one of the most common workplace injuries according to OSHA. They are not bullet proof. Despite the warnings to ensure a firm footing, an Amish farmer erected his rigid ladder on a frozen manure pile.........and the sun came out that day. He got $75K because the warnings on the ladder did not mention frozen ground thawing as a hazard. There has to be some level of responsibility with the operator. Maybe Mr. Jeffery did everything right and this product failed him. We won't know until it has been litigated and that is where any discussion of his case belongs---in court. By posting his blog, he is endangering his case. Wait for the facts but in the meantime, read, understand and follow all the instructions that come with any product then apply any applicable codes, standards, workplace rules but most of all use common sense. Most falls are caused by a lack of that last one. If you climb, you will violate that last one sooner or later. We all do it but at our own risk.

Bob

[Bob Harper]

Untitled Page (http://www.fireladder.com/attic1.html)

Check out the folding attic ladder, too. I've used these many times back when I was a vol. fire fighter (folder type) but this narrow extension ladder is relatively new. Very expensive but ask Mr. Jeffery how expensive and painful his injuries are. Perhaps a telescopic ladder is not the best choice for everyone.

You can get these ladders through fire dept. supply houses. Yes, they are heavy but they are built for the fire service.

Bob

[Nick Ostrowski]

I recommend using tools which suit your needs, develop your own style and don't get to complicated you will scare the hell out of the real estate agent and never see them again. Do carry a portable hand held screw driver it really saves time looking in the panel box. Also don't forget to have a "T-Bar" wrench in the trunk of your car it will make you a hero when the agent fails to have the water turned on at the street.

Why are you worried about scaring the real estate agents? I know some good agents but never seeing some of them again wouldn't be a bad thing.

Turn water on at the street level??? Egad man!!!!

[Raymond Wand]

Bob

Those are the facts as I know them.This is not a courtroom and I did not suggest otherwise. Mr. Bryce frequents this forum and I am sure he would comment further on your post.

The information was posted so others be made aware of the hazards in use of ladders whether through improper use and/or design faults. Please do not shoot the messenger.

[John Kogel]

I have used the Telesteps to push open the hatch, but it can sometimes result in marking painted surfaces. The Xtend-n-climb is a better, sturdier ladder and can be had with a protective cap that doesn't mark walls. See Bryce Jeffrey's website. His ladder is an Xtend-n-climb clone, I think.
I've been struggling with my Telesteps and the black mark syndrome for a couple of years, draping my garbage bag over the top etc. Finally taped the corners with white electrical tape, hey, it's fixed!

I never use mine outside, it's too wimpy for hard climbing. Well, almost never. Here's a pic from the roof of the fifth floor. My Jaws was too dirty for the lobby and the elevator.:D

[Bob Harper]

Raymond, I didn't mean to offend you but I do ask you consider this: When we, me included, post information about a possible product defect/ injury, it is the responsibility of the poster to check his facts. If the jury is not in, figuratively or literally, then either refrain from making the post altogether or at least mention it is still being litigated and that readers should dig further before forming an opinion. As with the case in point, your seemingly innocent act could result in lost sales and lost jobs for everyone involved in this product category. Now, what if it turns out there was nothing found wrong with the product but misuse or a misapplication of use? Just because you got it straight from the plaintiff does not make it fact or credible.

Did you check the CPSC to see if there were reports of similar product failures? Were they just with this brand, which is made in China btw, or other brands, too? I'm just reminding us all to be careful what we pass off before become alarmists. Caution is good. Product assassination without facts is not.

Bob

[Raymond Wand]

Bob

You have become repetitive.

I suggest before you speculate in the same manner you accused me of doing you brush up on your reading. There have been a number of collapse

http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/tools-equipment/7328-had-telesteps.html

Short of mislabeling the product and using the generic name telesteps that is all I am guilty of.

You have no knowledge of the Canadian legal system any more than you do about the medical procedures and why they may have been done in the manner they were.

Jerry Peck summed it up nicely with this post. Worth a read.


Had it with Telesteps (http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/tools-equipment/7328-had-telesteps.html#post61163)

Those photo need to be permanently linked to a post regarding warnings to ALL HOME INSPECTOR who insist on using those telescoping ladders, insisting the ladders are safe because they ... have not fallen YET.

Those photos should be a wake up call guys. If you are using a telescoping ladder as your inspection ladder, do not say you have not been adequately warned.

You've been warned before by many of us, but that post and those photos --- you have now been ADEQUATELY WARNED!

That means, could mean, if you continue using those telescoping ladders, those ladder companies may be able to use that AGAINST YOU should you fall and sue them.

Like putting warnings on packs of cigarettes which says 'THESE CAN KILL YOU IF SMOKED', you lose your ability to sue to a large extent, because, unlike those cigarettes, those ladders are not additive.

Your individual choice, of course.
__________________
Jerry Peck, Construction / Litigation Consultant
Construction Litigation Consultants, LLC ( www.ConstructionLitigationConsultants.com (http://www.constructionlitigationconsultants.com/) )
www.AskCodeMan.com (http://www.askcodeman.com/)

[Jerry Peck]

I bought a Telesteps and used it maybe two times and considered it unsafe to use for home inspections - way to scary to use when you are used to using a good, stable, strong Little Giant.

I relegated that Telesteps to use with our motor home, and I still find it not practical to use with a great sense of security, so it has seldom been used.

I'm going to guess that I have used my Telesteps a total of 10 times maximum in however many years I've had it, which is probably 5 years give or take - it is not, in my opinion, a ladder home inspectors should be using ... plain and simple.

[Thomas McKay]

Woh! You guys are brutal diden't think I said any thing that would deserve the wrath of the Peck gang. After all we are only responding to a new guys request for information on inspection tools. Thoes who have miss placed opinions I can only hope will succeed in this business we have enough wise asses to go around you only have to look at the HI's reputation likened to used car salesmen at best. As far as the comments about turning on the water at the street if you are afraid to do that simply by homeowner means you beter think twice about acessing the electrical panel box or turning on a dishwasher, find another job if this one scares you. Take some chances service your client as well as the Realtors who send you most of your business. It is a shame you kiss their ass during the inspection but afterwards call them names; it is common information they know the least about the product they sell; why do you think there is a need for home inspectors? If you find the water turned off and are hesitant to open a water valve a homeowner would open to complete your inspection you are missing the oportunity to get a pay check and providing a dis-service to your client and the Realtor. I would never recommend turning on any system which was shut down by the city, gas co. or electric co. But my standard do approve the use of normal homeowner controls - ASHI. I think there has been enough said on this thread!:mad:

[Jerry Peck]

As far as the comments about turning on the water at the street if you are afraid to do that simply by homeowner means


Thomas,

You really are off your rocker, aren't you?

Using a special water meter wrench is "homeowner means"?

That must be why utilities fine you $500 for turning the water on at the meter when they turn it off - because it is "homeowner means"??? :confused:

Just in case you were not aware of it, there is a water shut off valve AFTER the water meter valve AND BEFORE the house system, and THAT valve does not require a special tool and THAT valve is the "homeowner means". :rolleyes:

It is home inspectors who do as you are saying, along with ones like SVH, TM, and others who give this profession a bad name and equate HIs with used car salesmen.

[Thomas McKay]

Speak for your self Jerry! I refer to the Florida Department of Insurance meetings to delierate home inspection licensing and the band of jerks in shorts and tee shirts who showed up and embarised them selves in fornt of the professionals who were there to try to help them; look it up in the article in the Feburary 2010 issue of the ASHI Mag. "There Aint No Sunshine in Florida". Additionally it has been my exprience that when the city turns off the water they put a lock on it, perhaps you have never seen that? :p

[Jerry Peck]

Additionally it has been my exprience that when the city turns off the water they put a lock on it, perhaps you have never seen that? :p


Sometimes, yes. :)

MOST of the time, no. (At least in past times, in these economic times, they may have changed that practice, however, I do KNOW of places where the water meter shut offs are OLD and have NO provisions for being able to be locked off. :p

[Ken Rowe]

I'll turn on the valves at the meter if I need to. I'd never turn on the supply disconnect on the street. They're 10 feet underground and covered with 5 feet of snow this time of year :)

Most of the foreclosed houses here are winterized and the meters have been removed. I don't carry tools to reconnect them. Plus, our insurance won't cover installing water meters or turning on the utility supply valve.

I've looked at the telescopic ladders and figured if I can't trust my camera tripod to stay up I sure wouldn't trust a ladder with only two legs. :)

[Nick Ostrowski]

I wouldn't leave for an inspection without my 12.5' Xtend n Climb telescopic ladder. I can sometimes go a full week without having to pull my 32' extension ladder off the car. In 6+ years of use, it has never failed me, unexpectedly compressed, or buckled. Now that said, I'm not a big guy and will never approach the 225 lb weight limit of the ladder in my life. Are the injuries incurred by other users of telescopic ladders the fault of the equipment or user error? I don't know. The ladder does have some flex as does my extension ladder depending upon the I set it up at. But as long as you don't try anything stupid with it, I have no reason from my experience to believe it is not a safe and reliable ladder.

[Eric Russell]

My city...and surrounding area...doesn't use locks on the water meter. The new code here is to install a homeowner valve after the meter. They DON'T want you turning something on that they've turned off. Logic says there is a reason for it to be off or it would be on. Realtors are good folks, but they've got a relatively easy job in comparison to ours...as far as the physical work goes. They do spend many hours driving clients around and doing paper work and such, but it is their responsibility to make sure they utes are on. I'm simply staying out of their territory. Plus, ever hear of a "hold harmless" agreement? You don't have one, and the house floods...guess what you be paying for??? Same as for gas et al. I set the appt. I call the realtor and make sure the utes get turned on. If they're not, I call them on it. Very simple. My atty. advises this is the safest way to avoid any liability. Am I scared??? No, just cautious and careful. I am a full-time firefighter also, and I tend to err on the side of safety...whose safety??? Mine.

[Rich Goeken]

Just a comment about using the Street Key to turn the water off at the curb---from personal experience I wouldn't do it. I had a home that was about 74 years old--3/4" copper to the street. Wanted to change the main shutoff valve, so I called the water department to shut it down for about 15 minutes while I swapped valves.

The showed up in a small pickup, took out the key and tried to shut the valve. In their struggles they broke the stem. From then on it became a "Flying Circus" episode in front of the house---two more trucks, a large truck with equipment, backhoe, road blocked off as they had to dig additional holes in the street to locate the main to shut the water while they replaced the street cock. So.... I wouldn't touch a street shutoff at all.

[A.D. Miller]

I wouldn't leave for an inspection without my 12.5' Xtend n Climb telescopic ladder.

NO: Hopefully, you will not find yourself someday not being able to leave your inspection because of your telescopic "ladder".:D

[Bob Harper]

Raymond, again, I do apologize if I sounds like I'm busting on you or nagging. My aim is simply to open everyone's eyes to being objective, including my own. Have I re-thought my own use of my Telesteps? You betcha'. However, it would make a stronger case against the use of these ladders as a product class if there was a recall listed by the CPSC, which I was unable locate in a search. If anyone has info. regarding CPSC again against these products, I would appreciate them sharing it with us. If you have knowledge of product defects that affect the safe operation or use, you actually have a duty to advise the CPSC of the problem. That is the best way you can become part of a solution. It is good to raise awareness among a few hundred or thousand home inspectors and visitors to this site who might read this one thread. However, the CPSC reaches much farther. If a product is indeed inherently unsafe at any speed, they have the power to force either a product re-design or have it pulled off the market. I have direct personal experience working with the CPSC on several product recalls so I know a little about the process from a mfr.s perspective. That brings up another good point: how many of you that have experienced product failures have reported it to the mfr.? If you are Toyota and your accelerator pedals are sticking, wouldn't you want someone to tell you? Now, if the mfr was told and failed to investigate or respond that puts a huge liability on them, trust me. That can result in criminal charges so most mfrs *get it* and will respond once notified of a problem. The big question then becomes their response to the issue.

To revisit my case: I inspect each locking tab religiously before I erect the ladder. Yes, sometimes a tab or two sticks and I have to pop it out. That is my due diligence. It also means the mfr. needs to go back to the drawing board and improve their design because I should not have to monkey with the ladder at each use. Yes, I have reported it to them (not the CPSC).

The problem with ladders is they are a contradiction unto themselves. We want one light as a feather but strong enough to hold an ox and utterly reliable at ultra low cost. That just doesn't exist. We will gladly opt for the cheaper option in lieu of safety every time. To me, fire dept. ladders are the Gold Std. Yet how many of us are willing to spend that kind of money and lug that kind of weigh around daily? We are all hypocrites to some degree when it comes to ladders.

FYI, I have an old magnesium extension ladder given to me by my father in law. They quit making them because of cost and brittleness of the material. They are very strong and very light--right up to the point they fail.....:-)

I think this discussion is very healthy. How about any other tools HI's use--any other problems? Anyone have a DMM blow up in your hands for ex.?

Bob

[Bob Harper]

[QUOTE=Nick Ostrowski;121874] Now that said, I'm not a big guy and will never approach the 225 lb weight limit of the ladder in my life. QUOTE]

LOL. FYI, those who have never met Nick, he is about 1/2 my size! Nice guy in a compact package. Now, John Arnold is a little taller but not as chunky as me. ;-)

[Nick Ostrowski]

FYI, I have an old magnesium extension ladder given to me by my father in law. They quit making them because of cost and brittleness of the material. They are very strong and very light--right up to the point they fail.....:-)

Bob

Bob, I'm assuming you've seen magnesium burn. I recall my brother pocketed some in high school from the chemistry lab and brought it home to play with because we were pyros. I've never seen anything burn as bright as that stuff.

[Bob Harper]

Mag. burning? Oh, yes! As a retired vol. firefighter, we used to see Volkswagen Beetle engines lighting up the night sky. It was fun to watch a rooky try to extinguish it with a hose stream! Man, what fireworks as molten mag. splattered everywhere! Then we'd let them try to extinguish it by dumping sand no it. Made a nice glass dome but the fire still burned. Then we'd let them try a a Purple K dry chemical extinguisher and even that wouldn't do it. Finally, they'd realize all you can do is contain it and let it burn out without extending the fire to the woods.

FYI, the Air Force uses mag. in their "basketball" flares and night photo recon. flashes at 1 million candle power.

Alum., zirconium and other metals will burn, too. Alum. makes the space shuttle rocket booster motors. Metal dust explosions are really impressive---and powerful.

[Rick Cantrell]

"Mag. burning? Oh, yes! As a retired vol. firefighter, we used to see Volkswagen Beetle engines lighting up the night sky."

What?
VW engines made of magnesium?
When?

[Rick Cantrell]

You seem to be correct
I did not know that.


http://www.autofieldguide.com/articles/090304.html
The VW Beetle and the VW Super Beetle both had magnesium engine blocks (AS21 and AS41, respectively).

[Rick Bunzel]

Rick,

The original VW bugs had magnesium engine cases. You could actually get an explosion if you hit it right with a 1.5" hose. We had a fire chief with access to an airplane part manufacturer who used to give us bins of magnesium shavings. Those drills were always well attended and frequently we have another 50 people show up just to watch. It would usually take a day or two for my retina's to recover.

I use an Xtend N Climb and have a lot of respect for it. I always take a second to review the angle, the surface the ladders on and locks before I jump on. In the 3 years I have had it I have had one unintentional section collapse and on occasional I have gone on it with only one of the two locks secured. Both times it was because I was talking and not checking before climbing. From a safety perspective I see this the same as backing out of a parking spot. If you don't check its likely your going to back into someone. Its not a question of if, its when. Ditto for ladders, if you don't follow good procedures you will take a fall....

//Rick

[Dustin Large]

I do carry a tool to shut off water and gas mains, but would never use it to turn anything on. I only keep it around in the slight chance there is a gas or water leak and there isn't a valve between the main and the leak or the valve is malfunctioning. I know you can always call the utility company in an emergency and they'll (normally) show up quick to shut things off, but the quicker the better.
Only cost $10 at Home Depot and marketed for use after a disaster to turn off utilities in the event of an emergency.
On a side note, it does have a nifty end on it used to unscrew water main access caps. Comes in handy now and again.

[Ken Bates]

IF the housing market (and our economy) ever recovers I am going to charge additional fees for using my extensive inventory of tools and instruments to discover defects and deficiencies that are not discoverable during a standard inspection.

I am using these now and not charging for them and 98% of clients (Americans) are too cheap to extend a gratuity.

[Ken Bates]

TELESTEPS:

Lots of imitations of Swedish telesteps. Lots of stupid inspectors refering to their cheap imitations as telesteps.

It would take a good deal of time to explain the whole story re telescoping ladders. (use them with care--I do.)

I was chosen to be an evaluator of the product that the American licnesee was allowed to produce. They were a failure. (Home Depot pulled them)

The photo that Raymond Wand showed that showcased a litigant showed photos of yet another manufacturer of the steps. They also retailed at Home Depot at a later date for $189 and were made in China. I found them to be very poor. ( Wobbly sections and just A PIECE OF CRAP )

Actually, once the Swede's patent protections expired a lot of internationaly based companies commenced producing poor copies.

There was a defect with the original Swedish product, which I discovered as an evaluator for the American licensee and the Swedes corrected it after the American licensee stopped production. (I possess the corrected version).

Lots of misinformation about telesteps. I know the whole and true story.

[Raymond Wand]

So whats the rest of the story?

[John Kogel]

TELESTEPS:

I was chosen to be an evaluator of the product that the American licnesee was allowed to produce. They were a failure. (Home Depot pulled them)

Actually, once the Swede's patent protections expired a lot of internationaly based companies commenced producing poor copies.

There was a defect with the original Swedish product,stopped production. (I possess the corrected version).

I know the whole and true story.
So fill us in, and don't be rude. :D

You could be saving somebody from serious injury here. Which are the defective ladders?

[Bill Henneberg]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken Bates http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/images/ca_evo/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/attic-areas-home-inspection-commercial-inspection/18155-inspection-tools-post123024.html#post123024)
TELESTEPS:

I was chosen to be an evaluator of the product that the American licnesee was allowed to produce. They were a failure. (Home Depot pulled them)

Actually, once the Swede's patent protections expired a lot of internationaly based companies commenced producing poor copies.

There was a defect with the original Swedish product,stopped production. (I possess the corrected version).

I know the whole and true story.





So fill us in, and don't be rude. :D

You could be saving somebody from serious injury here. Which are the defective ladders?

I have a 326 from 2003. I presume it is one of the suspect ones. Is there anything you can tell me that will make me safer?

Which of the later ones are the improved, and presumably safer ones? 1205? 1600?

.

[Michael Thomas]

I'm nearly as concerned about my Xtend & Climb collapsing as I'm worried because the feet do not provide a decent grip on surfaces such as hardwood floors.

[Bill Henneberg]

TELESTEPS:


There was a defect with the original Swedish product, which I discovered as an evaluator for the American licensee and the Swedes corrected it after the American licensee stopped production. (I possess the corrected version).

Lots of misinformation about telesteps. I know the whole and true story.

So, Ken, is my 326 the unsafe or safe version?

Any tips on safe usage? So far, so good, but your post has shaken my confidence.

[Robert Welch]

I had everything but the tongue depressors, do they sell them a Wal-Greens?

Robert

Houston Home Inspection - Houston Home Inspectors - Robert Welch (http://www.atexinspects.com)


Flat head screw driver with assortment of heads
flashlight
adjustable wrench - small
torpedo level
moisture meter
12 volt spot light
ladder
safety glasses
wooden tongue depressor
pens/markers
band-aids
small binoculars
thermometer
biz cards
compass
marble or ball bearing
white out
extra pair of shoes to wear inside house
voltage sniffer
outlet tester w/ gfci test button
digital camera
tape measure

[JB Thompson]

I purchased an Xtend and Climb back in June. I've read many posts on these forums both pro and con (probably more against).

There have been many times where I wished I had one and I finally found 2 (Ace Hdwe, in Wimberly, TX while on my 24th wedding anniversary trip). They were covered in dust and I asked what he'd take for one of them (the other is probably still there).

It is so handy. I make sure that each lock is firmly set and I put pressure on each step before climbing. So far so good. It is actually good to have a healthy fear of your ladder so that you dont' get too lax in your daily operations. :)

[Kris Ericsen]

I preffer a hands free inspection approach. Most of my gear is in a heavy duty modified Surveyers vest, with a full rear pocket accessible from either side for my clip board, building plans or other large items. I use my own proprietary generic/schematic drawing sheets for homes & condos that I can mark up quickly.

I've standardized my gear around AA rechargibles with a Nikon Coolpix from Sams club and 2x & 3x AA flashlights. A UE CO detector, Deltatrack laser Thermotrace and Pin style Pro moisture meter and the rest of my gear all fit in the vest. Duluth Trading in Wisconsin has excellent outdoor work clothing and other gear. Their $200 Arctic Parka with Fur rough is a steal. I wear their Fire Hose IKE jacket all year except summer.

After having several multi-bit screwdrivers fall apart on me; I found the IRWIN protouch grip driver which is non racheting with a solid handle. The bit shafts provide 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8 sockets for Furnace Panel bolts. Slipped into the shafts are two each, philips, slotted and square drive bits. This is an industrial strength tool not found at Hardware checkouts and you can't loose anything.

I am wary of telescoping ladders just because there are so many potential failure points with all the engagement and extension components. So I use my old 6' fiberglass wall banger inside; and a multi-fold aluminum, for most outside work. The uncoated aluminum makes your hands black; so the roof comes last. I keep hand cleaners in the truck. Usually these days I can get a picture of the property in advance to warn if I need to bring extension ladders. As a Side note on attic hatches; I once put too much pressure on a womens closet shelf bracket that collapsed with 20 feet of packed clothing that had to come out while I replaced all the shelf brackets and re stowed the clothes just in time before she came home. Whew! that was a close one.

After having to fix several damaged Garage doors over the years; I don't do a Auto reverse pressure test anymore. I found that I can't predict when a door operator bracket will tear off and/or a Panel bend or fold.

I drive an 06 Tundra 4x with the jump seat taken out. A Weekender demountable ladder rack in the truck bed hold the extension ladders when needed. I can get 19 to 20 mpg if I'd just keep my foot out of it. I'll always need a pickup here in Alaska for other chores.

An Auto-exec fiberglass seat desk on the passenger side holds my laptop and has a slide out desk extension. The new ones have a built-in inverter. I run a regular HP 960? printer in the back, set on a plastic drawer set for other stuff. These old printers are very rugged and have held up in years of rough mountain roads. I have an expensive old smart level and use it as a torpedo with 2' & 6' frames in the truck. I've got a laser torpedo also.

I use an HP Computor from Sams and a Brother Color Laser Multi-Function machine at the office. These were about $600 a couple years ago but the damn cartridges are expensive. With the Brother I can just dump whatever I want into the topfeed hopper and scan to Fax or Email.

I'm still stuck with my old ITA program, which means I write the report three times. Once on the Photos, again on the sections, and the summary in Word since the ITA word processing is so crappy. A Homegauge demo looks promising as a replacement but it's hard to teach us old dogs new tricks. I use Quickbooks to generate invoices. If anyone out there has switched to Home gauge recently; I'd like to hear how it went for you.

Later Guys, and don't forget to play nice.

Kris Ericsen
Alaska Building Inspections

[ted kidd]

Bob, nice post on telesteps. I'll support your first post.

Great ladder. Need to be very careful, make sure all locks fully engage. Like many tools, an operator in a hurry can easily get into trouble. This ladder is a requires a bit better mechanical skills than a basic ladder and should be approached more like one would approach using a power tool.

[Lisa Simkins]

I include a pen/laser pointer, which is great for pointing things out to clients. Also screw drivers that are electrically insulated for the elec. panel. In case it has been improperly screwed in, ie a long screw going through a wire. I have been told it has happened. My indoor shoes are electrically insulated safety shoes. I only use them indoors in home inspections.

[Thomas McKay]

Lisa, always place the back of your hand on the electrical panel box prior to removing the cover if its hot or warm to the touch don't open; if you get a shock thank the good Lord you touched it with the back of your hand, your hand would contract and move away from the hot box if you touched it with the front you might be pushing up daisies. Every inspector with any track record wears rubber sole shoes. Always inspect the electrical panel box first its when you are the freshest and not libel to take anything for granted. Stay safe, the alternatives are not good! :)

[aefieldinspectors]

Flat head screw driver with assortment of heads
flashlight
adjustable wrench - small
torpedo level
moisture meter
12 volt spot light
ladder
safety glasses
wooden tongue depressor
pens/markers
band-aids
small binoculars
thermometer
biz cards
compass
marble or ball bearing
white out
extra pair of shoes to wear inside house
voltage sniffer
outlet tester w/ gfci test button
digital camera
tape measure

Hello to all,
I am new here.
And I think this is really helps you...:)

[John Bernard]

Welcome to the profession

Great suggestions - I also use a combustible gas detector, combination SureTest GFCI/AFCI tester, microwave detector and laser thermometer

The more toys the better! :^)

John