Garage door opener installation (I-Joist)

[Frank Albanello]

Hi
I have just installer 11 7/8 I-Joist 16" OC so I can hang drywall in my garage. Could someone please tell me the best way to mount the garage door opener and tracks to the ceiling. I don't think a lag bolt into the bottom of the I-Joist is a good idea.
I have some ideas but am looking for the best method.
Thanks
albanello

[Frank Albanello]

A. D. Miller

Thank you for your reply.

That's kind of what I was thinking

My idea is to screw a 2x4 to the top of the top flang of the I-Joist, fasten two plywood plates to the sides of the 2x4, fasten the two plywood plates to a 2x4 fastened between the bottom flang of the I-Joist, drywall then lag bolt the garage hardware to the bottom 2x4.

That should put all the load on the top of the I-Joist and not require any modification of the bottom of the I-joist.

Is this kind of what you are suggesting ?

Thanks
albanello

[Frank Albanello]

If I don't screw it to the I-Joist what will keep it from twisting (Over Time) and falling between the I-Joists. Drywall will be the only restriction from twisting? I was going to use deck screws and glue....?

albanello

[David McGuire]

Frank before you do anything, contact the manufacturer. If you do anything before passing it by them and getting a recommendation it probably would be considered a non-authorized alteration and the warranty would be voided on the I-joist at the very least.

[David McGuire]

Hey James, thanks for the link. Gonna have to incorporate this link into 3D

[Frank Albanello]

Thanks for the information and link. Simpson StrongTie is what was used to fasten the I-Joist to the Rim board. I will contact the manufacturer for recomendations.

I can't beleive I am the only one asking how to hang a garage door hardware. You would think the manufacturer would have something out there already for people to find but I can not find anything relative to hanging the garage door hardware from a I-Joist ceiling.

Thanks for all your help.
albanello

[Frank Albanello]

FYI

Here are two links to pdf the I-joist manufacture sent me in response to me asking the recommended method of mounting Garage Hardware to I-joist. It talks about a sprinkler system mounting but I guess it could be used for garage door hardware also.

http://www.ilevel.com/literature/COM-1000.pdf
http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TB-808.pdf

Hope this can help somebody

albanello

[chris mcintyre]

It talks about a sprinkler system mounting but I guess it could be used for garage door hardware also.

http://www.ilevel.com/literature/COM-1000.pdf
http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TB-808.pdf


The way I am reading it, the opener can be attached to the bottom chord of the I-joist.

From the second link:



Examples of items commonly attached to the bottom flange include furnaces, ductwork, bike racks, garage door motors/tracks, lights, etc.






Design considerations for bottom flange attachments include:

��

Maximum allowable bottom flange load is 500 lbs every 5 feet (250 lbs on each side of flange).

[Frank Albanello]

chris mcintyre

Ya thats how I read it too. For my own peace of mind I may ALSO tie it to the top flange, as I stated in my post #3.

Thanks for you comment.

albanello

[Phil Brody]

We use perforated angle iron with drywall screws to the bottom of the I (spanning 2 I's) after the drywall is on and painted and gives a nice clean look.

[Rick Cantrell]

"We use perforated angle iron with drywall screws"

Drywall screws are just for that, drywall.

[Frank Albanello]

Phil Brody

I will probably do something closer to what is recommened by the manufacturer. There is alot of weight on the track connections to the ceiling. Almost the full weight of the door. The opener only has the weight of the opener, not alot.

Rick Cantrell
Drywall screw are pretty brittle. I'm not going to use them for this application but when I do need a screw of that type, for something other than drywall, I use deck screws.

Thanks for your comments
albanello

[Rick Cantrell]

"The opener only has the weight of the opener, not alot."
Plus the torque of the motor pulling on the door.


Most deck screws are the flush type (tapered head). Though I have not seen the installation instructions, I believe a 1/4" x 1 3/4" wood screw with a pan head is what is needed for this.

[Michael Thomas]

Thanks for posting those documents - I was actuality a bit surprised to discover that you are allowed to impose that much load on the lower flange.

[H.G. Watson, Sr.]

After subtracting the loads from the drywall ceiling, fasteners, and straps first, you won't have much left for the concentrated load forces of the door, springs, and tracks as the door is operated.

Ceiling finish load is heavy, heavier if using 5/8" X rated vs. 1/2".

Tracks and springs generally exceed those load force limits after ceiling loading, even smaller one-car-lighter doors.

Drywall or multipurpose screws are not appropriate fasteners application of garage door opener, angle iron, straps, nor tracks or springs, nor resistant to sheer.

[Scott Patterson]

Over the past few years I have been seeing more DC powered garage door openers. Most have been side mounted openers, they are very strong and useful when you have issues that prevent ceiling mounted drives.

This is one brand that I found in a home a few months back.
Model 3800 DC Motor Side Mount Opener (http://www.zylstradoor.com/residential/openers/side%20mount/)

Another plus is that all of the DC units I have seen have had a battery backup in case the power goes out.