Lucas Lu
06-28-2010, 04:36 PM
Hi, There, I am not an inspector, but really need some professional opinions on a house. The entire exterior of the house has been removed and then re-mediated. The original stucco was poorly installed. Serious leaking happened and there was mold. At ninth years, the owner removed all the exterior siding and put on a new three-layer stucco, which was done one year ago. I am wondering whether we should still consider buying this house or just walk away. It looks like the remediation scared most buyers away. We don't know whether the structure of the house has been seriously damaged. Also we are not sure whether the new stucco was installed in a quality way. I am in PA/DE area. Could anyone please recommend a good stucco inspector? Following are what they have done and some pictures taken after microbial clearance. Is this house worth consideration? Any opinions/suggestions will be highly appreciated.
1. Furnish and install rough opening flashings, exterior closure flashings around all window and door openings. Tyvek sheet – R.O., Tyvek flex wrap at sills, Tyvek tape to windows, ice dam final exterior flashing with extended drip cap. Metal or impervious pan/flashing at all doors removed.
2. Window installation. Window schedule is to be Andersen 400 series clad windows and doors with hardware and screens.
3. Furnish and install new pvc trims and foam sill plant-ons where present. All exterior trims to be of PVC extruded material. Note: trims will be matched as close as possible to original trims. However, slight differences may be present. No penetrations of clad window membrane will be permissible.
4. All windows, doors and penetrations to be edged with polymer termination bead spaced for 1/2” of closed cell backer rod and silicone based sealant – tooled.
5. Install reasonably located façade horizontal expansion joints, vertical construction and Expansion joints, dissimilar material joints and drip screed to be installed at top of concrete foundation walls.
6. Install roof/wall intersection kick-outs (diverters) at all necessary locations.
7. Wrap house with #30 equivalent felt (weather resistant membrane).
9. Apply 2.5 galvanized self-furring wire lath.
10. Apply 3.4 galvanized self-furring lath to soffits.
11. Install approximately 3/8” cement scratch coat.
12. Install approximately 3/8” brown coat.
13. Sample color (stucco and stone if applicable) and finish installed on façade and approved by Owner
14. Install elastomeric finish coat
15. Full stucco to 6” above grade or polymer finish on exposed foundations to be determined.
16. Reinstall all lighting fixtures, downspouts and drain caps etc & gasketed or caulked.
17. Install backer rod and caulking at all window and door locations. All window and door joints to be ½”.(caulk to be close to finish color).
18.Prime and paint and fillet caulk all new PVC trims.
19.Below drip screed – exposed foundation - clean all foundation walls and apply matching color finish coat.
20. Chimney: Install stainless steel metal drip cap, 2.5 galvanized self-furring wire lath over weather resistant membrane, scratch coat/brown coat, elastomeric finish.
1. Furnish and install rough opening flashings, exterior closure flashings around all window and door openings. Tyvek sheet – R.O., Tyvek flex wrap at sills, Tyvek tape to windows, ice dam final exterior flashing with extended drip cap. Metal or impervious pan/flashing at all doors removed.
2. Window installation. Window schedule is to be Andersen 400 series clad windows and doors with hardware and screens.
3. Furnish and install new pvc trims and foam sill plant-ons where present. All exterior trims to be of PVC extruded material. Note: trims will be matched as close as possible to original trims. However, slight differences may be present. No penetrations of clad window membrane will be permissible.
4. All windows, doors and penetrations to be edged with polymer termination bead spaced for 1/2” of closed cell backer rod and silicone based sealant – tooled.
5. Install reasonably located façade horizontal expansion joints, vertical construction and Expansion joints, dissimilar material joints and drip screed to be installed at top of concrete foundation walls.
6. Install roof/wall intersection kick-outs (diverters) at all necessary locations.
7. Wrap house with #30 equivalent felt (weather resistant membrane).
9. Apply 2.5 galvanized self-furring wire lath.
10. Apply 3.4 galvanized self-furring lath to soffits.
11. Install approximately 3/8” cement scratch coat.
12. Install approximately 3/8” brown coat.
13. Sample color (stucco and stone if applicable) and finish installed on façade and approved by Owner
14. Install elastomeric finish coat
15. Full stucco to 6” above grade or polymer finish on exposed foundations to be determined.
16. Reinstall all lighting fixtures, downspouts and drain caps etc & gasketed or caulked.
17. Install backer rod and caulking at all window and door locations. All window and door joints to be ½”.(caulk to be close to finish color).
18.Prime and paint and fillet caulk all new PVC trims.
19.Below drip screed – exposed foundation - clean all foundation walls and apply matching color finish coat.
20. Chimney: Install stainless steel metal drip cap, 2.5 galvanized self-furring wire lath over weather resistant membrane, scratch coat/brown coat, elastomeric finish.