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Dan McDonald
06-10-2011, 07:02 PM
Seems like they went through a lot of effort for this roof truss construction...why lay the 2x4 on edge and notch, instead of laying them flat? The notches are even cut at an angle. They only did this on the first roof truss, which was obviously hand constructed. The rest of the roof trusses are pre-constructed engineered trusses. When looking at the front of the house, this first roof truss is really architectural and not load bearing (creates the eaves).

Something to write up?

H.G. Watson, Sr.
06-10-2011, 07:52 PM
You need to hire an Inspector or Consultant. Preferably one who knows how to read plans apply same and use photographic equipment.

This is your second similar discussion in as many days. Where was your independant Inspevctor during construction? and now? Hire a professional to inspect and advise you to protect your interests before it is too late.

This is what, the fourth or fifth topic discussion you've created in the last month about the C.F. in this home you've had built by this so-called "builder" who doesn't have a clue (upside down I-joists, the "shims", using sawn lumber to band I'joists, beating the crap out of the chords on same, notching same, banding with milled lumber, ripping out sill plates, etc.).

Hire a professional Consultant NOW, to do your Monday Morning Quarterbacking. Coulda Shoulda Woulda,

Before its all together too late regarding recourse, and this dolt hacks away further, while you continue to DIY your own inspections/negotiations with the "builder" after the fact (where was YOUR PAID professional during stage inspecitons? Where are your PLANS?).

You'll likely find this moved along with the others to the DIY area.

Ever hear the phrase "Penny-wise and Pound foolish"? How about "A fool and his money are soon parted"?

Enough already.

Dan McDonald
06-10-2011, 08:09 PM
Thanks for the scolding. If you don't have anything constructive to say, just don't read the post or don't reply.

This is/was a new built home and I actually did hire a "professional inspector" to do pre-drywall and post drywall inspection. So not only did the "professional inspector" miss these issues, so did the county inspector. The builder is suppose to be reputable in my area per better business bureau and word of mouth. What else am I supposed to do to ensure I don't get F'd over? There doesn't seem to be much buyer protection at all.

I was told at another inspector forum that this is a 2x4 barge gable notched into a 2x6 rafter and that there was no problem with this method.

H.G. Watson, Sr.
06-10-2011, 08:20 PM
Our host here has had to MOVE your other posts to the non-technical areas and will obviously have to move this one.

There is a "Questions from Home Owners, Home Buyers, and DIYers" area - that's where all of your other posts have been MOVED to, as I expect, this will be soon.

Stop posting in the Technical areas.

Next, Hire a professional plans examiner and inspector - an independant one, who is qualifed. I have followed ALL of your topic posts since you first joined with this member ID, I have responded before, perhaps you didn't catch it, because your topic discussion had to be MOVED out of the Technical Areas and to the Home Owners, Home Buyers, and DIYers SECTION!

Buddy, this most recent post/dribble takes the cake!


Welcome to InspectionNews.
InspectionNews is an Inspector to Inspector message board.

If you are a home owner, home buyer or DIYer you may post a question but please do it in the appropriate section Titled: "Questions from Home Owners, Home Buyers and DIY".

Randy Mayo
06-11-2011, 07:23 AM
Dan

If the photos depict the truss at the face of the gable these hand notched 2x lumber is there to nail the sheathing to. If they are very long placing them as shown will make them stiffer and less likely to bow which keeps the face of the gable end flat.

BARRY ADAIR
06-11-2011, 07:53 AM
OP exhibits a hack example as materials do not align, abut, connect properly
will it fail beyond the original ineptness? time will tell
if you want an answer now run a string line, from top to bottom, along the bottom of the fascia
deflection will be evident if any is present

upright outrigger
http://www.floridadisaster.org/hrg/images/roofs/gable_end_overhang_sketch_outrigger_detail_large.j pg

flat let in outrigger
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_suBD4NuThgU/TKAHPG2X7hI/AAAAAAAAAps/AHghloa-DhA/s1600/IMG_1818.jpg

BARRY ADAIR
06-11-2011, 08:44 AM
String Line

A line is described by two points, the start point and the end point, and the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.

A carpenter uses a string line between two points (nails or line blocks etc.) and he pulls the line tight to get it the shortest distance, to make it straight, with no sag.

A carpenter can get accurate readings on a string line, by using three small packers, all the same thickness, say 20mm. He stretches his line between two end points that are fixed first. Then he puts a packer under each end to give the line clearance.

String line -String line between two points.
http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/image-files/ht-joist.jpg
* In the sketch above, he has fixed the string from 'A' to 'B' and put a 20mm packer under his string line at each end.
* Then he uses his third packer as a gauge to check the height along the rest. At 'C' he can see that this point is too high.
* This is a basic method, used on walls, ceilings, formwork etc. If you don't use the packers, there is a danger of any point lifting the line a small amount and you finish up with a curve.
* In a long run of string you may get sag in the line, pick a point about the center and pack it up until when you sight along the line from one end it looks straight.
* A good string line should have a fair amount of stretch in it.

Dan McDonald
06-11-2011, 08:47 AM
Thanks for the constructive replies...

Barry, I will admit my photos aren't very good...but the photos I am showing are of a 2x6 rafter notched into a gable stud. These photos look similar to the install on the photo you posted? These are not photos of the outriggers as described in your post. I apologize if I am mis-reading your post.

As Mr. Watson points out repeatedly in my posts, I am a home owner not an inspector so I am still learning the terminology. Mods, please move this post to the DIY forum to lower Mr. Watson's blood pressure ;)

Bruce Ramsey
06-11-2011, 01:11 PM
Looks like the stuff being put in Cary or BrightLeaf in Durham.

Based on the dark photos and hazy description, that is the proper method to frame a gable wall under a end trusss.