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View Full Version : Disconnect at electrical water heater question......



TcDuhon
11-10-2011, 05:48 PM
I did a house today where the elec WH was in the garage and apparently set up correctly but I had one question. I was wondering if the armored cable coming from the elec disconnect box next to the water heater should be secured w/in 12" of the box at the wall..... like the A/C elec disconnect at the exterior?

Bruce King
11-10-2011, 08:56 PM
I did a house today where the elec WH was in the garage and apparently set up correctly but I had one question. I was wondering if the armored cable coming from the elec disconnect box next to the water heater should be secured w/in 12" of the box at the wall..... like the A/C elec disconnect at the exterior?


Depends on the code inspector who either allowed it, missed it or if subsequent work left it that way.

If its not hanging out where a kid could swing on it and its intact its not really a home inspection issue but anyone who wants to write it up has that option if they feel it is a safety issue.

This doc says its ok if its no more than a 24 inch piece.

http://www.afcweb.com/pdf/afc_install_guide_0704.pdf

Bill Hetner
11-10-2011, 11:24 PM
this is another case of do you have a pic so we can see more of what and where everything is. Like are you talking about the wire to the heater that is in space that there is no place to tie it to anything or is it the otherway from the box to the power supply?

Rich Goeken
11-11-2011, 05:05 AM
this is another case of do you have a pic so we can see more of what and where everything is. Like are you talking about the wire to the heater that is in space that there is no place to tie it to anything or is it the otherway from the box to the power supply?

When I purchased my new home----they had installed Romex from the wall to the WH and furnace---one loop was 6' long. When I discussed this with the local inspector, and mentioned that the code required mechanical protection to the cables, he said yes---but it was residential and didn't need to be as strict as commercial. Go figure. Needless to say, I replaced it with BX, drops no longer than 24". You see some strange things.

bob smit
11-11-2011, 07:12 PM
Need a pic or drawing on this one.
I always require securing (supporting not sufficient) at a panel and or disconnect/J-box according to the applicable code for a particular wiring method.
I do make exceptions at the appliance termination and will accept supporting there or even tyrap. Example: Whip can be supported at the water heater connection plate with a tie strap as long as it isn't pulled tight to the water line (air space). Tyrap to the line set to an AC unit or the gas pipe to a house generator. The whips still require securing at the disconnect before following the line set/ gas pipe.

As in some code language that states 'cables shall follow closely the framing structure' or something to that effect, gives us insight on the intent.
My interpretation is for my jurisdiction. The intent is to keep the strain off the termination points and to keep the whip out of harms way. No flappin in the breeze if you please.