Nails for Roof Sheathing

[Rich Beaudry]

I'm adding a deck with roof to the side of my house. I'll be using 3/8" plywood sheathing on 2x8s with 16" centers. I read something that said the sheathing should be nailed on with 8d nails where I was planning to use 1 1/2" ringed plywood nails. Is there a standard? Are 8d required?

Rich

[John Kogel]

I would use good old hot-dipped galvanized nails. They grip the wood and never go rusty.

If you don't tell us where you are, Alaska, Hawaii, Florida, we can't help very much.

[Garry Sorrells]

Rich, I assume you are speeking of a roof deck using 3/8" plywood sheathing.
Reconsider using 5/8 - BCX or CDX for the roof. Higher cost but extremely better long term results.
Local code will tell you min to use for nails. Florida is different than AZ.
Coated sinkers or nail gun coated 10p

[Markus Keller]

I'm guessing when you say 1.5" ring shank plywood nails you mean those pretty little shiny ones that one can buy in small boxes at big orange. Those may say 'plywood' on them but are typically meant for nailing down luan and masonite on top of other stuff at the interior. I guess you could use them for roof sheathing, I wouldn't.
Rent or borrow a compressor & gun and shoot the plywood down. If you hand nail as a DIY guy, you may get tired of nailing and start putting fewer and fewer in as you go along.
Additionally, I would not recommend using 3/8" plywood. I seen too many jobs, especially new construction in the burbs, where siding and shingles do not stay well adhered over relatively short time periods. Depending on your location, i.e. weather, this could be a major or minor point.
Go at least 1/2", the price difference is minimal. Also depending on how much you weigh you could step through the 3/8" while installing it.

[Rich Beaudry]

Thanks for the responses folks. I appreciate that you all said use a heavier plywood.

This is a relatively small roof (9'x20') as I'm extending an existing deck and covering it. I live in NC, so humidity and potential hurricanes are a concern.

And yes, I think this 1 1/2" ringed nails are more suitable for nailing a thin material to a a substrate.

Rich

[Jerry Peck]

Thanks for the responses folks. I appreciate that you all said use a heavier plywood.

This is a relatively small roof (9'x20') as I'm extending an existing deck and covering it. I live in NC, so humidity and potential hurricanes are a concern.

And yes, I think this 1 1/2" ringed nails are more suitable for nailing a thin material to a a substrate.

Rich

Rich,

Minimum you want to go with would be 5/8" as others have stated, and you will want to use 8d ring shank nails - if you are right along the coast then you may want to consider stainless steel nails to avoid the problem with the nails rusting (if you are directly on the coast, rusting nails can definitely be a problem by the time you go to replace the shingles).

I would also consider using a peel-and-stick underlayment as the underlayment instead of using Type I or Type II felt.

[Corn Walker]

First, if you're in a high wind uplift zone (and even if you're not, if hurricanes really are a concern you should consider yourself in one) you'll want to use a modified nailing schedule - typically 6" along the edge and in the field using 8d ring shank nails. That's 45 nails per sheet of plywood.

9' x 20' is approximately 2 square, so you're going to want to shoot at least 270 nails. I'd take Markus's advice and rent a nail gun if you don't have one already. Then get something similar to these:
Senco 8d stainless ring shank 20° plastic collated nails (http://www.amazon.com/Senco-GL24AGBS-Gauge-Length-Stainless/dp/B0017O4FOU)

3/8 plywood really is crap - not only is the span dodgy but it doesn't hold the shingles all that well either. I do 1/2" CDX minimum, 5/8" preferably. For your roof a single roll of peel and stick, such as Grace Ice & Water, should do. If built correctly, the only thing you'll need to do is replace the shingles a few decades from now.

[John Kogel]

No offense but if you can't drive 300 little nails in a day with a hammer, get someone else to help you. :D
BTW, 5 sheets will cover most of that roof 8 X 20 and you can buy a half sheet to finish the top in one foot strips. Space the rafters accurately so that the edge of each sheet lands squarely on a rafter. Make sure the thing is perfectly square by measuring across from corner to corner, or lay a sheet of plywood up for a square.
Always lay the sheets long ways across the rafters and stagger them, so the half sheet starts the second row above a full sheet.
Use H-clips between the sheets to give them the proper spacing and to keep sagging to a minimum, especially for those thin strips across the top. Have fun.

[Jerry Peck]

BTW, 5 sheets will cover most of that roof 8 X 20 and you can buy a half sheet to finish the top in one foot strips.

"in one foot strips"

Oh no you don't ... not if you know what you are doing. You might if you just knew how to drive nails in, but not if you knew what you were actually doing.

The MINIMUM width of plywood rips is 24 inches. The MINIMUM length is over two spans, three supports.

Anything less and you are using the plywood/OSB outside of its ratings and you do not know what the rating is.

Look it up, structural panel sheathing is based on minimum rips of 24 inches and minimum of three supports (two spans).

[Rich Beaudry]

No offense but if you can't drive 300 little nails in a day with a hammer, get someone else to help you. :D
... Have fun.

No offense to anyone, but my thought exactly! :rolleyes: At 65, I'm finding this deck extension with added roof to be more of a project than I anticipated. Not that I can't do it, but I keep finding new and repeating pains! :eek:

My thanks to all -- I've been working on this project for about a month and now have the roof half shingled. (Being retired gives me long days to work and I'm not exactly a novice.) Your comments have been helpful and have helped me to adjust my plans to ensure a good safe deck and roof. (I also got the benefit of researching other topics here.)

A half day of shingling, about a day lining with cedar (I'm having to route my own shiplap) and a few days of electric rough-in and I'll be ready for the inspector.

But after tomorrow, the predicted rains can come and I'll just sit back and smile. :)

Rich

[John Kogel]

"in one foot strips"

Oh no you don't ... not if you know what you are doing. You might if you just knew how to drive nails in, but not if you knew what you were actually doing.

The MINIMUM width of plywood rips is 24 inches. The MINIMUM length is over two spans, three supports.

You are correct of course. It is just a patio roof, but it would be better to trim `the lower sheets to get away from one foot strips. Or insert nailers between the rafters.

Would you accept one foot strips if they were supported between the rafters with 2 X 4 nailers, or would he be obliged to tear it off and rebuild it? :D

[Rich Beaudry]

You are correct of course. It is just a patio roof, but it would be better to trim `the lower sheets to get away from one foot strips. Or insert nailers between the rafters.

Would you accept one foot strips if they were supported between the rafters with 2 X 4 nailers, or would he be obliged to tear it off and rebuild it? :D

Yes, "would he be obliged to tear it off and rebuild it?" ;)

The actual width is about 14", but that doesn't change anything. 2x4 nailers is exactly what I had in mind.

This is a good example of what I meant by "helped me to adjust my plans to ensure a good safe deck and roof". More thanks to John and Jerry.

Rich