First Course Shingles

[Jeff Eastman]

.........

[Jerry Peck]

The problem I see is that, at least unlike from what I am used to seeing, the starter course should be sealed down, and the first course should be sealed down to the starter course - then that problem does not occur.

[Jim Luttrall]

Correct, it is incorrect.:D

[Scott Patterson]

On the starter course you should not see the key-ways. If they don't use the manufacturers starter course product they need to reverse the starter course so the tabs are facing away from the edge. Clear as mud! :D

[Jim Luttrall]

No, No, No, you don't reverse the shingle, you cut the tabs off so that the tar strip is aligned at the edge to hold down the shingle tab above.
I don't know who started that reverse the shingle story, but I have been fighting it for a long time. Just read the directions (at least all I have seen) to see how to do it right. If you just reverse the shingle, the tar strip is still up in the middle and does no good and leaves the bottom tabs vulnerable to wind damage. Look closely at the diagram.

[William Mize]

"Thats the Way we always did it" is the answer I get Jim:mad:

[Billy Stephens]

"Thats the Way we always did it" is the answer I get Jim:mad:

William,

Hand them the Manufacturers Installation Instructions and tell them the manufacturers
warranty is Void so the roof is on them for the next 20,30 years.:eek:

[Jon Randolph]

First row can be reversed if blackjack or other sealing compound is used. Otherwise the tabs should be cut off or a starter strip used. Without this, there is nothing to seal the actual first row of roof covering and the shingles are susceptible to wind damage.

[Jerry Peck]

First row can be reversed if blackjack or other sealing compound is used. Otherwise the tabs should be cut off or a starter strip used. Without this, there is nothing to seal the actual first row of roof covering and the shingles are susceptible to wind damage.

That's the way I've always seen it done, cutting the tabs off not only brings the sealant strip down, it also makes the starter strip too narrow (not full shingle height), creating its own set of problems.

[Jim Luttrall]

The folowing is from the Owens Corning instructions for 3 tab shingles, other brands instructions that I have seen specify the same basic proceedure with the additional option of using precut starter strips:

Owens Corning three-tab shingles are designed for new or reroofing...


Starter Course
(A) Trim tabs off all starter course shingles so sealant can seal along the
eave’s edge.

(B) Trim 6" (6-9/16" metric) off rake end of first shingle. Extend 3/8" beyond
rake and eaves, and fasten.

(C) Complete rest of starter course. Use five fasteners for each shingle, placed
2" to 3" up from the eaves edge.

First Course

(D) Apply first course starting with a full shingle, even with the starter course.
Fasten securely according to instructions.

Note: Complete course with full shingles.

Reroofing

(A) Starter Course: Make starter shingles by removing the 5"
(5-5/8" metric) tabs and cutting a 2" strip off the top of the
shingles. Lay starter shingles so the top edge butts against the
lower edge of the second course of the existing roof. Place the
thermal sealing adhesive toward the eave edge. Secure with five
fasteners evenly spaced per starter shingle placed 2" to 3" from
the eaves edge. Complete the course.

There might be different methods and shingles for the high wind areas, but this is one of the most common shingles around here.

[Jerry Peck]

There might be different methods and shingles for the high wind areas, but this is one of the most common shingles around here.
Just like high wind areas do not use step flashing, they use regular 'L' base flashing sealed to the wall at the top, sealed to the underlayment at the roof, and the shingles sealed to the base flashing.