Replacing roof-can I keep the existing drip edge?

[Catherine Newberry]

Good afternoon,

I am going to be replacing my roof and wondered if it is acceptable to keep the existing drip edge? It is in decent shape. The roof is from 2006 but we had a windstorm so some of the shingles blew off. We cannot find a drip edge that will match the existing fascia so that is why we are thinking just keep what is already there.

Please give me your thoughts.

Thank you.

[Jim Robinson]

Not usually a big deal. You should be able to keep it.

[Garry Sorrells]

If there is nothing wrong with it, leave it. Most of the time when you remove the old roof material the drip edge is damaged. So make sure (WRITE IT IN THE CONTRACT) that the contractor knows that the drip edge is to not to be damaged else the contractor will have to replace it with the identical design, material and color at his expense, not just "like and kind" or something close.

[Jerry Peck]

If there is nothing wrong with it, leave it. Most of the time when you remove the old roof material the drip edge is damaged. So make sure (WRITE IT IN THE CONTRACT) that the contractor knows that the drip edge is to not to be damaged else the contractor will have to replace it with the identical design, material and color at his expense, not just like and kind or something close.

Correct - the code requires all damaged flashings to be replaced.

If the roofer is smart, they will document where the flashings are damaged before they start work and include a per foot price for any flashing which needs to be replaced.

The way roofs are required to be installed in Florida virtually guarantees that the flashings will be damaged and thus will need to be replaced.

[Garry Sorrells]

Catherine,
What kind of drip edge do you have? Have a picture??

[Catherine Newberry]

Catherine,
What kind of drip edge do you have? Have a picture??

Here is a picture...sorry the first one is upside down.

This was after the windstorm!

[Garry Sorrells]

Ok, thought you might be actually talking about the Rake and not the Fascia. Facia is what is behind the gutter. The drip edge is at the bottom of the roof edge extending over the gutter.

The trim on the Rake should not be a problem to leave in place. Just a matter of the contractor being careful not to damage it. Providing that you are having the existing shingle removed. If you are going over the existing shingle then that is a different story.

[Catherine Newberry]

Ok, thought you might be actually talking about the Rake and not the Fascia. Facia is what is behind the gutter. The drip edge is at the bottom of the roof edge extending over the gutter.

The trim on the Rake should not be a problem to leave in place. Just a matter of the contractor being careful not to damage it. Providing that you are having the existing shingle removed. If you are going over the existing shingle then that is a different story.

Yes, I am having the existing shingles removed. I have a deflection in the roof also that I will get corrected at the same time. (Remember me, Jerry?) I was concerned about the underlayment that should be under the drip edge. I assume they would have to pull all of the drip edge up to remove and replace the underlayment and then nail it back down? That is where I am concerned it might get damaged.

[Garry Sorrells]

Well, the scenario keeps changing. The material can be salvaged. It is a matter of time and effort not to damage it.

[Jerry Peck]

Being as they are going to pull the drip edge up ... it will likely be damaged.

I recommend planning on replacing it, even if you get lucky and can salvage some of it.

[Scott Patterson]

I don't see how the drip edge can be salvaged if it is sealed by the underlayment. In the photo It looks like it is the same as or part of the aluminum wrap on the fascia. The key is how the drip edge is sealed or if it is sealed and attached.

I would count on it being damaged and go ahead and plan to replace it with something similar even if it is not exactly the same. If I was a roofing contractor I would not guarantee that I could salvage the drip edge without any damage to it. Just too many variables.....

[Jerry Peck]

In the photo It looks like it is the same as or part of the aluminum wrap on the fascia.

That's what I was thinking too, but I wrote it off as just not being able to see it well enough.

If the fascia wrap is also the drip edge - then trying to save it is the wrong thing to do. The drip edge should be over the fascia wrap to allow any condensation/leakage to weep out and down the front of the fascia wrap. If it is all one piece then any water will be trapped behind the fascia wrap and will rot out the fascia, truss/rafter ends, soffit framing, etc.

[Catherine Newberry]

That's what I was thinking too, but I wrote it off as just not being able to see it well enough.

If the fascia wrap is also the drip edge - then trying to save it is the wrong thing to do. The drip edge should be over the fascia wrap to allow any condensation/leakage to weep out and down the front of the fascia wrap. If it is all one piece then any water will be trapped behind the fascia wrap and will rot out the fascia, truss/rafter ends, soffit framing, etc.


The drip edge is a separate piece over the fascia and nailed down I would think on the top edge under the shingles. They are exactly the same color now so that is why it looks like one piece. That is why I was trying to match it. I am going to try different manufacturers to see if they have a better match if anyone has any suggestions? So far, Mastic, Quality Aluminum, Quality Edge (getting samples tomorrow). I live in Michigan.

Thank you!

[Scott Patterson]

The color will never match, it's faded a month after it goes up.

[Billy Stephens]

The drip edge is a separate piece over the fascia and nailed down I would think on the top edge under the shingles. They are exactly the same color now

Why not get a contrasting color darker than the new shingles?

[Mike Schulz]

Some of the posters are from areas that mastic/tar the shingles down along the eaves and rakes. If yours is not it may be salvageable. If it is saved and not removed the felt paper is suppose to be over the eave drip and under the rake drip by instructions. I have yet to see it installed that way around here and is typically one or the other first so it could be under or over on all sides.

- - - Updated - - -

[Catherine Newberry]

Thank you for everyone's comments and suggestions.

After looking at different manufacturers, I actually found a match! Quality Aluminum Herringbone.

My next option was going to be matching the shingles instead of the fascia so thank you for that suggestion. I noticed the drip edge for most of the homes in my subdivision actually did match the shingles not the fascia.