Re-piping from gas shut-off valve to dryer - please critique

[Bill Putney]

See attached photo of current setup of supply line to excess flow valve/flex-line adapter. This is in an existing closet installation of front load washer-dryer pair. We are re-arranging the washer and dryer and renovating this closet.


Because we are re-arranging the front-load washer/natural gas dryer pair from vertical stacked to side-by-side configuration (to make repairs to the washer, like replacing a drain pump, easier - i.e., they don?t have to be unstacked and then re-stacked) I want to re-plumb downstream of the local shut-off valve to add a shut-off valve to be easily accessible just below the level of the top surfaces of the washer and dryer. Washer will be to the left of the dryer and in front of the existing vertical supply pipe. I will connect to the dryer with a new 4 ft. long 1/2? OD stainless steel flex line. This is replacing the previous 5/8? OD SS flex line. According to the charts, the smaller flex line will have plenty of capacity for the 20,000 BTU/hr dryer using natural gas. There will be one less adapter to adapt to the 3/8? inlet pipe going into the back of the dryer so now the 90? bend in the flex line to go parallel to the wall won?t need to be nearly as sharp as it was before (and will be an even more gradual bend relative to the smaller diameter of the new flex line).


So - below is a description of what I plan to do, and since I don?t know all the codes and standard practices, I would like your opinions and especially for you to point out if I?m doing anything against code or otherwise dangerous.


So that I don?t have to shut off the main supply valve at the meter and empty the lines out to do this re-plumb (that scares me), I will leave the existing 3/4? supply valve in place as is. Once I have everything downstream of that valve re-plumbed with a new shut-off valve further downstream and turned off, I will open the existing valve and then remove its handle.


So here is the planned order of things to be added downstream of the existing shut-off valve: Starting at the existing valve, a 10? long nipple to establish the height of what comes after it, a 90? 3/4?-to-1/2?reducer elbow (pointing to the right - in the direction of the dryer), a 1/2x6? nipple, a new 1/2? shut-off valve, a short nipple, a 1/2? test tee, another 6? nipple, and finally, a new 1/2? EFV/flare adapter (comes with the new 1/2? OD flex line).


So, again, is my plan OK? Ideas for improvements? I plan to attach a wood block to the wall and strap the new horizontal pipe section to the block of wood. Of course I will use a suitable thread dope and will soap test for leaks.


Your help is much appreciated.


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[Bill Putney]

In my post, all apostrophes and quotation/inch marks (and a couple of degree symbols) show as question marks. Is it something I?m doing wrong, or does that happen to everybody?

[Bill Putney]

The thing I am calling a test tee - what is it?s purpose? I can guess but thought I would ask. And is it OK to replace it with a 1/2 inch tee instead of 3/4 inch?

[Dom D'Agostino]

In my post, all apostrophes and quotation/inch marks (and a couple of degree symbols) show as question marks. Is it something I?m doing wrong, or does that happen to everybody?

Fairly common problem with "special characters" with computers and sometimes HTML code. Type directly into the box instead of cut/paste, in case the system inserts the wrong code.

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FYI, I recommend you hire a gas fitter or plumbing contractor to run or re-work gas lines. Too many issues to overcome for safety.

Simply run your concept past the tech and let him/her design a safe installation that meets applicable code and provides you with the upgrades you're looking for. I can bet they have insights that will influence the install as well.

[Gunnar Alquist]

Of all the various systems and parts in a house, the one that I won't touch personally is the gas piping. In addition, if I advise you on some specific installation and you blow yourself up, the trail leads back to me (but Gunnar told me to do this). I am with Dom on this one. Hire a licensed plumbing contractor. It's a lot less expensive than a gas explosion.

[Bill Putney]

The laundry closet is re-done to accommodate the new side-by-side washer-dryer arrangement (removed existing shelving that would interfere with where the washer is now going, and rehabilitated and painted the walls to look like new, installed new shelving from just above the tops of the machines almost to the ceiling, and made a work (laundry sort?) surface from 3/4" wood panels suspended just above the washer and dryer by Sturdistruts supported by improvised brackets attached to the two side walls).

Attached is a photo of the simple re-pipe. I temporarily hooked up the equipment halfway thru the job because we were running out of clean clothes - we ran the machines almost constantly for 2 days without problems. Then disconnected again to finish the walls and shelving. Ready to "permanently" hook up and position the washer and dryer. As mentioned in my OP, I may remove the first shut-off valve handle, or I may just leave the handle on it.

[tkaiser1]

Overall it looks pretty good. One exception is the lack of a sediment trap. I just looked at new construction sediment traps today and saw what is probably the best configuration, where the main (hard pipe) gas line comes to a sideways "T", with the 3" trap leg forming one side of the T, and the appliance flex line going up and onwards to the appliance. This guarantees that any sediment will drop out at that location. I would suggest adding one for the longevity of the equipment served. In the situation I saw today there was one of these for both the water heater and the furnace.



The laundry closet is re-done to accommodate the new side-by-side washer-dryer arrangement (removed existing shelving that would interfere with where the washer is now going, and rehabilitated and painted the walls to look like new, installed new shelving from just above the tops of the machines almost to the ceiling, and made a work (laundry sort?) surface from 3/4" wood panels suspended just above the washer and dryer by Sturdistruts supported by improvised brackets attached to the two side walls).

Attached is a photo of the simple re-pipe. I temporarily hooked up the equipment halfway thru the job because we were running out of clean clothes - we ran the machines almost constantly for 2 days without problems. Then disconnected again to finish the walls and shelving. Ready to "permanently" hook up and position the washer and dryer. As mentioned in my OP, I may remove the first shut-off valve handle, or I may just leave the handle on it.

[Bill Putney]

Thanks for the reply, Mr. Kaiser.

Are these traps something that have been considered good/standard practice for a good while, and is it now or is it becoming a code requirement?

I?ll look my distribution piping over to see if there are any tee traps. This particular branch comes up from the basement (tapping off of distribution to furnace and Renai central water heater) to this first-floor location for the clothes dryer (which was probably not part of the initial house build). That black rigid pipe in my photo ends just below the floor, and is fed by CSST tubing. It would be a simple matter to add a tee-trap where that CSST connects to the rigid pipe in the basement. Of course you?re suggesting tee traps on the branches to the furnace and water heater too. Again, I will see if there are already some (house was built in 2006 - mentioning that in case that was or was not common practice then).

Overall it looks pretty good. One exception is the lack of a sediment trap. I just looked at new construction sediment traps today and saw what is probably the best configuration, where the main (hard pipe) gas line comes to a sideways "T", with the 3" trap leg forming one side of the T, and the appliance flex line going up and onwards to the appliance. This guarantees that any sediment will drop out at that location. I would suggest adding one for the longevity of the equipment served. In the situation I saw today there was one of these for both the water heater and the furnace.

[Jerry Peck]

The sediment traps are required at appliances by most (If not all) codes, and there are exceptions to that requirement ... one being a gas fireplace, one being a gas stove, another being a gas light (you can "see" when they are not working), yet another exception is a gas clothes dryer.

I would recommend a sediment trap for a gas clothes dryer, but it's not critical like it is for a water heater and furnace.

I would also not give your installation the "okie dokie" you are asking for as you already know the answer to that: what did your plumber/gas contractor say?

You DID ask, right?