View Full Version : Openings to attics

Ted Menelly
06-16-2008, 12:36 PM
I just had a home builder call me about an inspection I did a week ago. I called out all the undersides of the eves and fascia not coming down all the way and sealing the attic space of from Rats, birds etc.

He is saying his water penetration guy in Houston and the independent home inspector they use on all there homes says the fascia and eves must be a minimum off an 1 1/2 off of the shingles. Hmmmm, really.

I can understand the side walls that come down to a roof being held back but under the eves/soffit. Open penetrations that large into an attic????

I personally do not read that anywhere.


The picture below makes sense. Lets butt the sheathing hard to the shingles and leave the hardisoffit back???????????????



Jerry Peck
06-16-2008, 01:31 PM
Without a photo showing exactly what you are referring to, I've got to say that you are both RIGHT, except that you are both talking about different things.

You are RIGHT in that there shall be no openings into the structure which are not screened (ventilation openings, there should not be any other openings).

They are RIGHT in that the fascia/rake/siding should be at least 2", and probably 4" above the roof shingles.

HOWEVER ... THE FLASHING should extend up and cover the difference to the fascia/rake/siding. The FLASHING would also eliminate the openings, making it not necessary to have anything screened.

Jim Luttrall
06-16-2008, 01:37 PM
Yep, I call it out since the siding should not be in contact with the shingles. I see the trim boards rotted out all the time. BUT the hole has to be closed. I suggest metal flashing just like they put behind the siding.
If the gap is close enough to keep out vermin, it will also close enough to let water wick up into the trim boards and prevent them from being painted. Even Hardi board says to hold it back of the shingles.

Jerry Peck
06-16-2008, 01:43 PM
The flashing should be from the underlayment to the sheathing, with the WRB (weather resisting barrier) over the sheathing, then the siding over the WRB.

Your photo should be showing metal flashing, not OSB.

They done did screw that one up. :)

Ted Menelly
06-16-2008, 01:46 PM
I just added a nonsense pic. The others are wide open.

I did tell him that at least flashing should cover the opening. To have that big a hole at the front or anywhere on the home with just mesh covering it with a dark void behind (my opinion) would be just plain unsightly.

Besides, under the eves with the roof sloping away, cement board? To me it is just plain common sense to bring the cement board down to the roof. I know I differ about codes sometimes but really. Wide open gaps, even if there is mesh, Under the eves. Ahhhh, no. (just my common sense opinion).



This is the only builder that does this for all the homes I have inspected. I agree with the consensus.

I did mean I would bring it down almost to the shingles. enough to keep the rodents out.

Jerry Peck
06-16-2008, 01:52 PM
To me it is just plain common sense to bring the cement board down to the roof.

To most, if not all, the rest of us, to the codes, and to the manufacturer (what little do they know anyway, right? :confused: ) ... what you just said is just plain wrong ... and against all common sense. :(

Ted Menelly
06-16-2008, 02:16 PM
Sorry Jerry. As always you (no wise crack) are always right. I know I miss spoke and should watch myself. What I should have said (to you) is it would look better being brought down almost all the way to the shingles. Yeah I know it is wrong as well.

I did tell him about flashing and wide open gaps and the foolishness of bringing the sheathing down so why not the hardi board. But, you must admit, being held up that high just looks plain ugly and unfinished.

Didn't mean to step on the codes and manufacturers.

I'll watch myself


Jim Luttrall
06-16-2008, 03:13 PM
• Maintain a minimum 2” clearance between James Hardie trim products and roofs, decks, paths, steps and driveways (figs. 5 & 6).

This is from the installation instructions for trim board products.


At the juncture of the roof and
vertical surfaces, flashing and
counterflashing shall be installed
per the roofing manufacturer’s
instructions. Provide a 2" clearance
between the roofing and the bottom
edge of the siding and trim.

Ted Menelly
06-16-2008, 04:16 PM
Thanks Jim

I definitely have to stop interjecting my personal opinions into my comments on this site. I always stick my foot in my mouth.

I just looked over my wording in the report and did not beet up the code or manufacturers installation. I mentioned the gaps wide open to the attic, the sheathing touching the shingles and the spaces should have been closed off with flashing. I did foolishly state that before leaving gaps and having the sheathing touching the shingles I would have just brought the hardi material close enough to the roof to keep the attic area closed off. Hmm, 3 out of 4. I know follow the specs. That's why I am on here, it shows me the errors of my ways.

I will certainly state it properly in the future and give them the specs and try to hold off with my personal likes.

But damn, it sure do look ugly. I would close it off if I were building it for myself with concrete trim products. Shoot I did it again. Somebody please stop me.

Thanks guys


Brandon Whitmore
06-16-2008, 11:04 PM
Maintain a minimum 2” clearance between James Hardie trim products and roofs, decks, paths, steps and driveways (figs. 5 & 6).

This is from the installation instructions for trim board products

The requirement in the NW is for a min. 1" clearance. I just wanted to post this for people out there that don't realize that the installation instructions are region specific.