Thread: cut truss

Ok, here is my problem. I purchased this cabin a few months ago. As you can see the trusses had been cut on one side to create a vaulted ceiling. On the opposite side, I have sistered the somewhat " intact" truss side with 2x8's ( rafter/chords)and installed gussets at the top wall plate and ridge. I also installed 2x8 collar ties and placed a 2x10 beam underneath the "intact" side of the truss so the bottom chord of the truss can rest on it as well as be nailed to it.

Now, the "open" side was previously sistered with 2x8's that run straight to the ridge. However, there is no ceiling joist or rafter tie. The span on this side is roughly 12 ft to the 2x10 beam I installed and 11 ft to the ridge (horizontally). What should I do???? My thoughts were to place rafter ties 1/3 up off the top plate every 4ft to keep the vaulted ceiling or just run ceiling joists to my new beam and be done with it. Any comments would be appreciated, thanks.

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I hope you got a real good deal, cuzz your screwed. There is nothing to resist the outward movement of the walls when the roof load pushes down. You really need to start from scratch and design proper rafter ties, collar ties, and spans back into the structure. The truss is now useless since some dumb azz cut the bottom chord.
The best fix is to get an engineer to design a proper fix, that will probably be cheaper in the long run too. You can throw lumber at this all day and still have problems if you don't know where to put it.
Knowledge ain't cheap, but it is nowhere near as expensive as ignorance.

As a bare minimum starting point, I'd run rafter ties *at the top plate level* every 4 feet and make them large enough to look like beams (for cosmetic purposes). These *should* *help* prevent the walls from being pushed outward by the roof load.

That's what I'd do if it were mine.

BUT ... Jim said it best with "I hope you got a real good deal, cuzz your screwed.", then added the real answer "The truss is now useless since some dumb azz cut the bottom chord. The best fix is to get an engineer to design a proper fix, that will probably be cheaper in the long run too."

I certainly won't argue with a statement like that.

Can you believe that crap??? I feel like taking the dumb ass to court. Anyway, I rebuilt the one side with 2x8's and used ceiling joists tied in to a beam I built, so that wall isn't going anywhere, if anything I overdid it. It's this open side that bugs me. I did speak with a engineer who said beam it or tie it.

Originally Posted by Robert A. Kuzmick

Can you believe that crap??? I feel like taking the dumb ass to court.

Who?

The seller?

The inspector?

The buyer who bought it without an inspection?

Point well taken. My main concern now is to make it safe. I think I can do that by using ceiling joists every 4ft and make them look ike beams.

Is it fixable?

Originally Posted by Robert A. Kuzmick

Is it fixable?

*I* would *think* so.

If you installed beams for rafter ties and securely attached them to the top plates, *I* can't see the walls spreading outward.

But, that is only *my* opinion.

It is, of course, best to have a structural engineer go out there and do as I always say "design appropriate repairs".

Your only extra cost is for the engineer, and the few hundred they will likely charge is well worth the piece of mind you will have owning it, and when you sell - just pull out that piece of paper which says 'do it this way' and 'yep, it was done that way'.

Thanks Jerry, hard lesson learned. I did speak with a structural engineer and showed him pics, etc. He pretty much said what I had expected. Beam it or tie it. Anyway, once this is all taken care of I will be able to rest easy.

Originally Posted by Robert A. Kuzmick

Is it fixable?

Anything is fixable. The issue is how much is it going to cost to fix. The first thing you need to do is consult an engineer. This one is quite bad.