Attic Access Hatches - InspectionNews

#1 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 10:25 AM

I'm on a roll lately breaking hatches as I use the tip of my telescopic ladder to (try) and prop them open. Some of them are stuck and I end up breaking them trying to force them open. Since I've been paying for the damages, I've become so irritated with this that I'm considering telling the client if it breaks they pay. Sounds kind of crazy I know, but I don't like walking out of an inspection - paying money. Any ideas/suggestions appreciated.

Erol Kartal
Pro Inspect

Nick Ostrowski · #2 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 10:42 AM

Erol, what are these hatch doors made of? Around here, the typical hatch door is a square of drywall or a thin square of luan paneling.

I know you're frustrated but you can't put the bill for repairs of damages incurred by you on your client. You just need to be more careful. Try propping your ladder against the wall and freeing up the access panel by hand instead of with the end of your ladder. If it doesn't want to move with hand pressure, things are not likely to go any better by forcing the hatch open with your ladder (as you already know from first-hand experience).

#3 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 10:49 AM

Nick,

In a garage I have to prop the hatch so I can rest the (telescopic) ladder. I should probably start using my LG and fold to position. I wouldn't ask the client to pay - just wishful thinking. ;-)

Thanks Erol

Randy Aldering · #4 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 10:54 AM

If the hatch does not open easily to allow for inspection, then it isn't working properly! If they are painted shut, use a utility knife at the perimeter to score the paint. Otherwise, "failed during inspection" works for me.

Jerry Peck · #5 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 11:14 AM

Set your Little Giant ladder up in an A frame configuration (like a step ladder), climb it, loosen the hatch, then lift the hatch out of place.

Using *anything* from the floor to pry open an attic access hatch is not only *lazy* (sorry about that, no nice way to say it) but is also just asking for the hatch cover to break and/or fall out of the opening.

Then, expecting your client to pay for your actions above is ... incomprehensible - to me anyway.

Richard Rushing · #6 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 11:29 AM

I have broken one... about 7 years ago. None since and won't either.

By the way, the one I broke was by opening it he way you (Erol) described as how you openen them-- bad business...

rr

Scott Patterson · #7 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 11:41 AM

Yes, if you are pushing on an attic hatch with a Telestep ladder it will bend and break if it is sealed. Do what Jerry said. This is how I have done it for years and years and have never had a problem.

Now with that said! If a hatch is so stuck that it does not open easily without damage to it and or you, then it has a problem. Look at it like a window. Do you force a window open? I hope not! Well, if you do you will stop once you pull one apart!

#8 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

Then, expecting your client to pay for your actions above is ... incomprehensible - to me anyway.

As I mentioned in a previos post Jerry, I wasn't serious.

My method may not be appropriate but it sure isn't out of laziness. You coudn't find a harder working inspector in my area. :-)

Jerry Peck · #9 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erol Kartal

As I mentioned in a previos post Jerry, I wasn't serious.

That post of yours was not there when I started to respond, got delayed, finished responding, then clicked 'submit' on my air card *broad band* (yeah, right) connection, meaning, it takes a long time that way.

Sorry 'bout that.

Quote:

My method may not be appropriate but it sure isn't out of laziness. You coudn't find a harder working inspector in my area. :-)

No doubt, based on your other posts, but this one (the first post) just did not have any other response (until after your second post clarifying what you meant). But, in the end, this was good to hear.

Mitchell Captain · #10 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 02:52 PM

Try this with your telestep. Go 90 degrees to the hatch opening on the smaller ends. Tap it with the ladder then go do the same at the middle of the larger sides. If the hatch don't pop get an aframe.

Captain

#11 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 04:07 PM

Thanks for the feedback guys. Jerry just razzin ya'. I'll always remember you and a few others who were always there to answer my stupid newbie questions and share your report methods.

The problem is I'm still stupid and everyone is a newbie and always will be to some extent.

Thanks

Erol Kartal
Pro Inspect

Nick Ostrowski · #12 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 05:01 PM

Erol, you could always carry a few spare 2x4 sheets of drywall with you in your car along with a utility knife and framing square. Of course, the drywall should already be painted white

.

#13 (**permalink**) 08-13-2007, 06:19 PM

Or one of those cheap cardboard things that kids buy for art class...

#14 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erol Kartal

I'm on a roll lately breaking hatches as I use the tip of my telescopic ladder to (try) and prop them open. Some of them are stuck and I end up breaking them trying to force them open. Since I've been paying for the damages, I've become so irritated with this that I'm considering telling the client if it breaks they pay. Sounds kind of crazy I know, but I don't like walking out of an inspection - paying money. Any ideas/suggestions appreciated.

Erol Kartal
Pro Inspect

In my area most A/C repair companies add the charge for attic stair unit replacement to their invoices for A-coil or furnace replacement. They break so many of the cheap-ass wooden stairs that they've learned to charge the customers for it. Follow suit and raise your price enough to cover replacement of a 2X4 piece of drywall, and then just tape a $5 bill to the kitchen counter with a note about how terribly, awfully, deeply sorry you are . . .