Thread: Water-Resistive Barrier Installation

Can someone give some information on if you can install water resistive barrier, i.e. Tyvek, by unrolling the material vertically or does it not have to be done horizontally? There is a three story building with the first floor going to have stone and the rest going to be EIFS. On the first floor they have installed the barrier by unrolling it applying it to the building horizontally. The other two floors they have began to unroll the barrier from the top of the building to a point that overlays the first floor layer 6". Is this correct?

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I believe Tyvek is supposed to be installed horizontally due to the fact that it has vertical groves for water to run down. Obviously if it is installed vertically the groves would run horizontally and may hinder any water resistent capabilities. Check the Dupont/Tyvek page.

Dupont / Tyveck Installation Guide:

Start at the bottom of the structure to ensure proper shingling occurs throughout the installation. Proper shingling is required

to provide for water shedding and to prevent water entering the wall system.


Thanks Bob.

If the strips are being hung vertically then it is wrong.

I am still waiting on the builder to supply me the manufacturers installation instructions stating that the way he is doing is correct. I don't think I will be getting that phone call or fax. Thanks for the help guys.

There are two reports on Tyvek. The reports I read on the ICC ES Evaluation Reports indicated to "wrap the material around" the structure.

http://www.icc-es.org/reports/pdf_fi...S/ESR-2375.pdf

http://www.icc-es.org/reports/pdf_fi...S/ESR-1993.pdf

Tyvek and other similar materials should be wrapped from bottom to top ensuring proper overlap as well as fastening and taping.

usually contractors wrap completely over openings like doors and windows then cut into and wrapped around framing

see Tyvek manual on their website. Linl below

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weather...WRB_K16282.pdf

Originally Posted by Joe Laurieri

Tyvek and other similar materials should be wrapped from bottom to top ensuring proper overlap as well as fastening and taping.

usually contractors wrap completely over openings like doors and windows then cut into and wrapped around framing

see Tyvek manual on their website. Linl below

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Weather...WRB_K16282.pdf

Thats all pretty funny stuff I have not had to or needed to look at the installation instructions in a long time. I write tyvek installations up all the time because I have never seen it applied properly.

Don't you just love the tyvex wrap caps. Never once seen them on a building, just in a box.

The builder of this particular project is trying to make the argument that he is only using house wrap and that it is much faster for them to install it this way instead of wrapping the building from the bottom up.

Wayne- Does the reports you posted only pertain to the Tyvek brand of WRB? The builder is using a similar product that he purchased from Lowes. I have asked him to have that manufacturer send me some of there installation instructions and documents showing that the way he is installing it is okay.

My next question is, can they use "house wrap" under EIFS?
Does it not have to be the "Stucco Wrap" or the "Drain Wrap" or does the fact that they will be installing EPS on top of the WRB?

Originally Posted by Dylan Whitehead

My next question is, can they use "house wrap" under EIFS?
Does it not have to be the "Stucco Wrap" or the "Drain Wrap" or does the fact that they will be installing EPS on top of the WRB?

If they are installing it under EIFS, the newer drainable EIFS, then the "house wrap" *is* the WRB and *is* the drainage plane and *must* be installed horizontally "around" the house, with those grooves running vertically and not horizontally.

Sounds to me as though the builder as *no idea what he is doing, nor why it is to be done*.

The reports are Dupont Tyvek specific. Each manufactuer must get their own product tested and approved for the installation of their product.

What brand/type are they using.

As far as EIFS, you still have to apply some type of barrier so it all comes back on the material installed. Is it an approved material for what the use is intended?

PS There's a one day class coming up in Grand Prairie I believe on March 19.... wood framing and steel framing in the 2006 IRC/IBC

Wayne- I will be attending the class on the 19th and I look forward to meeting you.
I recieved a call from the Lowes representative this morning and he was telling me that he has the manufacturers information and is going to fax it to me. I am going to wait and see exactly what the manufacturer sends?
I still question the installation as it is. I will post what I find out from their information.

Okay, I recieved a letter from a Dupont Tyvek Proffesional and they are telling me that it is correct to install the wrap vertically if they follow two steps.
1: All seams must overlap by a minimum of 6"
2: All seams must be taped
They said that even though this procedure is not on the installation instructions that it is acceptable with these two requirements.

I also called them directly to discuss the use of "house wrap" versus "stucco / drainage wrap" under EIFS and they told me that "house wrap" would work just fine and still meet the requirments of the IBC. I got all this in writting and filed away for any future issues.

Okay, I recieved a letter from a Dupont Tyvek Proffesional and they are telling me that it is correct to install the wrap vertically if they follow two steps.
1: All seams must overlap by a minimum of 6"
2: All seams must be taped

I'd love to see a study showing how long that tape lasts..........
I have an issue with a 6" lap as well. Water will not only travel vertically, and the longer that vertical run is, the further sideways the water can travel.

Was this letter from the company rep, or their technical dept.?
You very well may get varying answers from each, as I have had happen.

The letter was from a Certified Tyvek Specialist w/ Weatherization Partners LTD.

I am doing more research on this company.

Originally Posted by Dylan Whitehead

The letter was from a Certified Tyvek Specialist w/ Weatherization Partners LTD.

I am doing more research on this company.

If the letter is not from Dupont itself and their technical department, on their letter head, I would not accept it. Only from the manufacturer themselves, and only from their engineering department.

I'm with Jerry on this one. Being "certified" does not mean much these days.

That is why I am doing more research on this company. The letter I received has both their company logo as well as Dupont's Logo. I have just sent a email to the Dupont web site directly asking about this particular application and I will post what they respond as soon as I get an answer.

Using vertical joints was permitted for the Tyvek house wrap we used on our project with the 6 inch overlap and their brand of tape. The tape that was supplied has the same moisture resistant properties as the wrap and when installed with an overlap on both pieces forms a bond that is impossible to remove without tearing or cutting.
That said this method was just done for simplicity of installing the top triangle of the gable ends.
It should be noted and probably is somewhere in all the links supplied that the headers are never wrapped. The house wrap is cut off at the exterior sheathing to avoid trapping water.
Found one installed the wrong way once and discovered that it held 10 gallons of water for 2 weeks without dripping. That means the tape joints held water also.

Dylan,

Reading an old post, caught my attention since I am an EIFS inspector.

If you look at the testing reports on Tyvek as a weather barrier, the minimum is the Tyvek Stucco Wrap. It is a heavier material, has channels for drainage and must be applied according to the manufacturers "Tested" practice, which is horizontal. There is also an anchor pattern and special staple/anchor to be used. This is to get the Tyvek warranty.
These methods are specific for an EIFS application as outline in the ES reports.

The problems with the mixing of the eifs and other WRB is that if there are problems, each will defer warranty due to the other. I see this all the time and try to get the Tyvek specialist involved for the warranty. The 2009 code is making a further attempt in the requirements for inspection, but I do not see it being that much of an improvement.

I would like to see the end result of what you inspected

Steve Meyer