Thread: Missing sheathing behing wood siding

This tongue and groove wood siding is attached directly to the framing, no sheathing. Is sheathing required. The area in question is limited to the garage gable areas.

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Let's try this approach, start with question:

Why do you think sheathing might have been required on the semi-detached garage (or the reverse, what makes you think sheathing is missing)?

Follow up question:

Is your concern related to the thickness of the T&G siding? how the ridge is supported? the roof pitch? dimmensions? blocking or lack there of? sheer walls?

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

This tongue and groove wood siding is attached directly to the framing, no sheathing. Is sheathing required. .

.
Matthew,

The link from this Manufacturer states installation without sheathing must be on 16 inch centers.
* your Mileage May Vary.
.
Installing Cedar Siding, Wall Preparation for Siding
.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

Is sheathing required.

Depends on your location, wind and other loads, and the engineering for the structure.

The quickest way to find out is to ask your building official.

Well my Dear Watson. My concerns are, does the manufacture require sheathing and will the lack of sheathing reduce stability.

The use of sheathing used to me omitted on gable end walls quite often, but I don't think this practice is allowed in most areas anyway's.

In my area, I doubt it would ever affect anything. In high wind areas, I've seen pictures of houses missing gable siding after a storm.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

Well my Dear Watson. My concerns are, does the manufacture require sheathing and will the lack of sheathing reduce stability.

It seems you haven't reviewed the American Wood Council document or any other resources I referred you to previously. One can lead a horse (or a horse's a$$) to water but one cannot make it drink.

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

It seems you haven't reviewed the American Wood Council document or any other resources I referred you to previously. One can lead a horse (or a horse's a$$) to water but one cannot make it drink.

H.G.,

That's the kind of lack of help which is, obviously, of no help.

If you are not willing to post the helpful information it is better you don't post (i.e., keep those posts to yourself).

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

seems you haven't reviewed

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Bla, Bla, Bla
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horse's a$$)

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Bla,
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H.G what is your problem. It was a simple post. Save your time and effort in the furture, I don't need to be lectured. I appreciate the info you have provided and I am reviewing it. But the purpose of this site, as I understand it, and feel free to correct me because I am sure you will, is to benefit from the knowledge of other inspectors.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

This tongue and groove wood siding is attached directly to the framing, no sheathing. Is sheathing required. The area in question is limited to the garage gable areas.

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

Let's try this approach, start with question:

Why do you think sheathing might have been required on the semi-detached garage (or the reverse, what makes you think sheathing is missing)?

Follow up question:

Is your concern related to the thickness of the T&G siding? how the ridge is supported? the roof pitch? dimmensions? blocking or lack there of? sheer walls?

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

Well my Dear Watson. My concerns are, does the manufacture require sheathing and will the lack of sheathing reduce stability.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

H.G what is your problem. It was a simple post. Save your time and effort in the furture, I don't need to be lectured. I appreciate the info you have provided and I am reviewing it. But the purpose of this site, as I understand it, and feel free to correct me because I am sure you will, is to benefit from the knowledge of other inspectors.

You don't just not provide the basic information, you also don't answer questions (the questions were ques and clues). Then you come back with sarcasm.

Frankly, your questions (often repeat issues), lack of responsive details, make me more than wonder. Do you even realize what IS shown in your photos (and more importantly what is NOT shown)? Time for some basic primers, and a little CE.

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

You don't just not provide the basic information, you also don't answer questions (the questions were ques and clues). Then you come back with sarcasm.

Frankly, your questions (often repeat issues), lack of responsive details, make me more than wonder. Do you even realize what IS shown in your photos (and more importantly what is NOT shown)? Time for some basic primers, and a little CE.

And time for someone (with the initials of H.G.) to take a deep breath, and hold it ... hold it ... hold it ... and slowly breathe out ... slowly ... repeat multiple times until you have recovered from beginning to revert to your old ways ...

... least we have to go through that all over again - and I KNOW that WAS NOT enjoyable to ANYONE of us here on this board.

H.G,
I fully understand what is in the photos, you always seem to add additional questions or issues. Case in point, the can light photo. I asked a simple question and you added additional points, i.e. the Romex cable. I never asked about the Romex cable, so why do you feel the need to comment on it. Does it make you feel special. Furthermore, I am not the one questioning someones post and whether they are posting under multiple names. So you can loose the sarcasm or condensending attitude. Take your own advice and visit some previous threads or "strings", as you refered to them, and you will find out who Ryan Stouffer is. Moreover, and most vexing, why you even can is beyond me. Bottom line, if you don't like my posts, think they are too remedial, rudimentary, or repititive, then keep your opinions to yourself. I don't want to hear it anymore. Your acting like a real prick.

Oh my gosh, I meant you're. Please don't post sites refering to proper grammatical constructions.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

H.G what is your problem. It was a simple post. Save your time and effort in the furture, I don't need to be lectured. I appreciate the info you have provided and I am reviewing it. But the purpose of this site, as I understand it, and feel free to correct me because I am sure you will, is to benefit from the knowledge of other inspectors.

Mathew, you are correct.

Politics, religion, thread drift and personal differences do not belong in any of the technical forums.

It should be as simple as posting a question and only replies that are at least trying to be useful or helpful should be made.

Everyone, back on track to the original question please.

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

Let's try this approach, start with question:

Why do you think sheathing might have been required on the semi-detached garage (or the reverse, what makes you think sheathing is missing)?

Follow up question:

Is your concern related to the thickness of the T&G siding? how the ridge is supported? the roof pitch? dimmensions? blocking or lack there of? sheer walls?

IF you read the question and follow up question above you will see ques and clues in them.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

Depends on your location, wind and other loads, and the engineering for the structure.

The quickest way to find out is to ask your building official.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

Well my Dear Watson. My concerns are, does the manufacture require sheathing and will the lack of sheathing reduce stability.

OF WHAT? The stability of the structure or the T&G upon the structure? That would be "it depends on information you have not provided" (in words or pictures).

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

It seems you haven't reviewed the American Wood Council document or any other resources I referred you to previously. One can lead a horse (or a horse's a$$) to water but one cannot make it drink.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

H.G.,

That's the kind of lack of help which is, obviously, of no help.

If you are not willing to post the helpful information it is better you don't post (i.e., keep those posts to yourself).

I did. I asked ?'s that sought information to address. He responded sarcastically and in a condescending manner, yet did not provide the information necessary to answer his original question with complete accuracy and specificity. I have also previously pointed him to materials that would aid him in the formation of such a question/response.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

H.G what is your problem. It was a simple post. Save your time and effort in the furture, I don't need to be lectured. I appreciate the info you have provided and I am reviewing it. But the purpose of this site, as I understand it, and feel free to correct me because I am sure you will, is to benefit from the knowledge of other inspectors.

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

You don't just not provide the basic information, you also don't answer questions (the questions were ques and clues). Then you come back with sarcasm.

Frankly, your questions (often repeat issues), lack of responsive details, make me more than wonder. Do you even realize what IS shown in your photos (and more importantly what is NOT shown)? Time for some basic primers, and a little CE.

Originally Posted by mathew stouffer

H.G,
I fully understand what is in the photos, you always seem to add additional questions or issues. Case in point, the can light photo. I asked a simple question and you added additional points, i.e. the Romex cable. I never asked about the Romex cable, so why do you feel the need to comment on it. Does it make you feel special. Furthermore, I am not the one questioning someones post and whether they are posting under multiple names. So you can loose the sarcasm or condensending attitude. Take your own advice and visit some previous threads or "strings", as you refered to them, and you will find out who Ryan Stouffer is. Moreover, and most vexing, why you even can is beyond me. Bottom line, if you don't like my posts, think they are too remedial, rudimentary, or repititive, then keep your opinions to yourself. I don't want to hear it anymore. Your acting like a real ***** (sic).

For the record I was NOT being sarcastic, you on the otherhand...

Since you've made a point of bringing up the can light photo/post what was the (now you say its Romex, your response said it was a "cord", it was PROXIMITY i.e. a SCALE to help DETERMINE WHICH SIZED, therefore closer to WHICH MODEL category of HALO luminaire it MIGHT BE.

Although I've caught you "viewing" that thread frequently, and it has been mentioned several times by me as well as other posters, have you "gotten" it yet as to where you find the INFORMATION you were seeking?

So I ask you to ask YOURSELF: What is missing in your photos? What information is missing from your original question and follow-up? and WHY (specifics & details as to the WHY) YOU ARE ASKING THE ORIGINAL QUESTION?

Finally, yes this is a forum to ask questions and to LEARN from each other (among other things). If all you want is cheat answer to your questions (no matter how vague they may be) without understanding, then I submit you are not here to learn. You don't seem to realize how incomplete your questions/photos often are, because I submit you do NOT understand what other factors, issues, may be involved in a fully considered complete response. I recall the wiring/TJI string where the string went off course with a lot of cross posting debate about conditioned vs. unconditioned crawl spaces while you omitted and had to be prompted to discover the crawl was full of standing water and had numerous issues, there was, hopefully, a lot of learning going on in that string (not just YOU), even JP "learned" something about exposed work in unconditioned and unfinished crawl spaces.

Why and when is sheathing applied? What function(s) does it serve? When can an exterior (in this case milled T&G) serve more than one function?

Then I want you to ask yourself, what didn't get applied on the outside of the framing before the T&G and what material(s) usually now gets applied to the outside of the framing (if no independant sheathing) or over the interveneing sheathing if present, before the siding and why/what purpose(s) did it/does it serve? (Hint, it cannot be installed from the inside of the framing and be effective).

HG,
I didnt read one work of what you wrote. It's this simple, don't respond to my threads if you don't like them. What is so difficult about that?

HG, I could not help myself, I read your post. I appreciate your input and do review the sites and info you provide. But you come accross as being a real jerk who is condescending and has a chip on his shoulder. Maybe it's just me, who knows. Nevertheless, I have to get back to reading wood councils article on desiccation cracking.

Does anyone know who H.G.Watson is?

I have tried Google and other search engines and the man/person does not exist outside of this discussion board.

Just curious if HG is someone's alter ego!

Your photos show what looks like a building wrap weather resistive barrier under the siding. One photo shows stains and possible deterioration of the wrap. Be aware that there are documented reports where Tyvek building wrap has been damaged and deteriorated when installed in direct contact with cedar. Current Tyvek literature recommends preventing direct contact. I personally inspected a 10+ year old beach house in Galveston built with first generation Tyvek. The wall profile was lap-and-gap cedar siding over Tyvek over plywood sheathing. The house began experiencing wet walls and water leaks at windows. When we removed the cedar siding, we did not find any evidence of Tyvek on the sheathing until we reached the base of the walls and building corners where we found only remnants with brown stained edges. If we had not found a Tyvek logo on one of the remnants, we would not have known what we were looking at. For lack of a better term, I reported that the Tyvek had totally dissolved due to its direct contact with the rear face of the cedar siding.