Thread: Energy Efficient Windows

I found this website interesting, lots of basic window information as well as some good resources and code links.

Welcome to the Efficient Windows Collaborative Web Site

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Nice link. Thanks for posting it.

They have a lot of good information but I don't know how user-friendly it is for the average homeowner. It appears the information is fairly general in nature rather than providing technical information for specific windows by manufacturer.

I took over a house that has tape and paper flashing about a year or more old. I removed all the homewrap and replaced it with 15 & 30 lb. felt and wrapped the headers with metal flashing but some of the bottom of the windows has paper flashing that has been screwed underneath the window-frames. Most of the tape on the sides has partially melted but is extremely difficult to remove.

Should I remove the tape or tape over them? The house has been sitting for about two years but there are no visible water leaks and also these windows are 2 and 3 stories up.

Peace,

Keith G.

Originally Posted by Keith Laufenberg

I took over a house that has tape and paper flashing about a year or more old. I removed all the homewrap and replaced it with 15 & 30 lb. felt and wrapped the headers with metal flashing but some of the bottom of the windows has paper flashing that has been screwed underneath the window-frames. Most of the tape on the sides has partially melted but is extremely difficult to remove.

Should I remove the tape or tape over them? The house has been sitting for about two years but there are no visible water leaks and also these windows are 2 and 3 stories up.

Peace,

Keith G.

At the stage of construction you are describing, there is only one course of action you should take: remove the windows and start from scratch, installing house wrap and flashing as it should be done, because you have no way to know it was done correctly to start with, and, with construction at this stage, there is no reason to NOT make sure it is done correctly.

It will solve a lot of future potential problems - it is likely that the windows and bucks were not even caulked/sealed properly during their install ... you now have the chance to check that and correct it.

Jerry,

I see your point believe me but it was done correctly; it passed the final building inspection process and, as I said, there is absolutely no signs of any leakage and these windows are accessed only by a manlift so the amount of time and work also has to be factored in for me. The windows are all certified impact-resistant and although I don't live in the home yet, my time working there has shown me their quality concerning noise and weather, as it stormed heavily many times while I was working inside. I still plan to caulk after taping the sides. I also figure I'll put metal flashing on the top and bottom. What kind of a chance am I taking? I mean after 2 years of sitting something would have leaked but nothing did and it is three stories high and located in a flood-zone, just off the Gulf-coast of Southwest Florida.

Peace,

Keith G.

Originally Posted by Keith Laufenberg

but it was done correctly; it passed the final building inspection process

Those two do not necessarily go together - which is what helps keep home inspectors in business.

there is absolutely no signs of any leakage

Which does not mean it was done correctly. That only means it has not rained from the wrong direction ... YET.

these windows are accessed only by a manlift so the amount of time and work also has to be factored in for me.

Ahh ... the real crux of the decision lies in "how easy it is" to make a repair.

Think of it this way: Windows are SELDOM installed correctly WHEN THERE IS STANDING ON THE GROUND ACCESS, and when installed from a hi-lift of from working from the inside ... even less chance that the windows were installed properly.

Jerry,

Thanks for your input; I'm taking s closer look at replacing any of them that may look suspect as we're going up in the lift in a week.

Peace,

Keith G.