Thread: Window Weep holes

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Robert,

The only reasoning for those is that the house has had some type of Pest / termite treatment. I would say carpenter ants and they have dusted in the void below the window. They should be sealed though due to water possible wicking back off the brick ledge and entering the openings.

Being in Austin, who knows?

If they (pest control people) drilled holes there, they probably damaged the through-wall flashing which should have been installed right there.

While on the subject of holes, I had a new build this morning that drilled out holes just directly below the soldier bricks about 4ft. apart all the way around the roof line.

What could be the reasoning for such. Seems like a good site for water intrusion with blowing rains.

Opinions welcome.

rick

Originally Posted by Rick Hurst

While on the subject of holes, I had a new build this morning that drilled out holes

Opinions welcome.

rick

Rick,

The Hole in your picture is square.

Maybe some one with a masonry background might known the purpose.

Ventilation.

Weep holes allow the water which penetrates through the brick and mortar joints (mainly the mortar joints) and runs down the back side of the brick to weep out.

However, with no holes at the top of the air space, there is little, or no, ventilation or movement of air to allow that air space to dry out. Those holes allow the heated air within that air space to form convection currents and help dry out the surfaces within that air space.

It also allows more air into the space behind the brick, helping to equalize the air pressure on each side of the brick, further limiting the driving force (pressure) behind the water which is penetrating the mortar.

Jerry,

Makes sense, but are they required. Any code reference available?

I've never seen these until today.

Thanks again,

rick

Can non or improperly flashed lower weep holes serve a valid function for air flow purposes?

For Robert,

28

Scroll down to:
- Flashing and Weep Holes
- - Flashing and weep holes should be located above and as near to grade as possible at the bottom of the wall, above all openings, and beneath sills. Weep holes must be located in the head joints immediately above all flashing. Clear, open weep holes should be spaced no more than 24 in. (600 mm) o.c. Weep holes formed with wick materials or with tubes should be spaced at a maximum of 16 in. (400 mm) o.c. If the veneer continues below the flashing at the base of the wall, the space between the veneer and the backing should be grouted to the height of the flashing. Flashing should be securely fastened to the backing system and extend through the face of the brick veneer. The flashing should be turned up at least 8 in. (200 mm). Typical flashing details are shown in Figs. 2, 4 and 5. Flashing should be carefully installed to prevent punctures or tears. Where several pieces of flashing are required to flash a section of the veneer, the ends of the flashing should be lapped a minimum of 6 in. (150 mm) and the joints properly sealed. Where the flashing is not continuous, such as over and under openings in the wall, the ends of the flashing should be turned up into the head joint at least 2 in. (50 mm) to form a dam.

Originally Posted by Rick Hurst

Jerry,

Makes sense, but are they required. Any code reference available?

I've never seen these until today.

Thanks again,

rick

Okay, so I could not copy and paste the other stuff, here is a link to the theory, purpose and construction behind it.

It's like a brick veneer wall, but it is more of a rain screen, which it is called.

http://www.bia.org/BIA/technotes/t27.htm

Robert, no answers here, but more questions, is that wall built as a veneer with an air gap behind the stone or is that applied directly to the exterior like tile with no air space?
If applied directly to the sheathing like tile on backer board, then weep holes would be pointless since there would be no cavity to drain or vent.
What does everyone else say?

I'm going on the assumption that it is anchored veneer and not adhered veneer.