Thread: Stucco in contact with roofing

Inspecting home with hard coat stucco siding and the stucco inspector shows up, which is a good thing and I recommend stucco specialist in my reports. He shows me a leaking pipe in the crawlspace (turns out to be an ice maker drain) and I point out the stucco on top of the roofing. He says "don't worry about it, its ok". I ask about the moisture damage at the bottom edges of the stucco where it touches the shingles. He says "its only cosmetic and not damaging anything structural". The banter went on for a while and I told him I would have to respectfully disagree. (I know, there goes Vern again). I'm not a stucco specialist but I am sure I would not want stucco on my home to crumble due to poor installation practice. There is a small crack at the top corner of one of the french doors and his take was that there is nothing wrong having cracks in the hard coat and they do not recommend anything until there is displacement. How off base am I with calling out contact with shingles and cracks? By the way, the window sills of both of the dormer windows pictured were total rot.

Vern,

I was not there so all I can do is give you my opinion based upon your explanation.

You are right and he is wrong.

The reason for the clearance is to prevent wicking/exposure to rain/snow/ice, to allow maintenance/cleaning/to prevent debris from getting lodged, to promote drainage/flow and to allow for expansion/contraction.

Now, does that mean that anytime I see lack of clearance I panic? No. I see it all the time and it is wrong. Sometimes the result is a problem and sometimes not. But it is wrong regardless.

In addition to the stains beneath the dormer windows (RED FLAG), I also see water stains at the right side below the kick out and immediately suspect lack of/improper kick- out/diverter flashing. What was his take on that? Did he take moisture readings?

Originally Posted by Steven Turetsky

Vern,

I was not there so all I can do is give you my opinion based upon your explanation.

You are right and he is wrong.

The reason for the clearance is to prevent wicking/exposure to rain/snow/ice, to allow maintenance/cleaning/to prevent debris from getting lodged, to promote drainage/flow and to allow for expansion/contraction.

Now, does that mean that anytime I see lack of clearance I panic? No. I see it all the time and it is wrong. Sometimes the result is a problem and sometimes not. But it is wrong regardless.

In addition to the stains beneath the dormer windows (RED FLAG), I also see water stains at the right side below the kick out and immediately suspect lack of/improper kick- out/diverter flashing. What was his take on that? Did he take moisture readings?

Thanks Steven; I was hoping you would weigh in. No moisture measurements just visual inspection. I also have seen many installations with the siding on the shingles, but in this case the stucco has damage. I couldn't understand his "so what" attitude, and the wait until there is displacement before worrying about a crack just hurt my head. He did see the stain and recommend kick-outs but was adamant about how hard coat was almost bullet proof and worry free. (those are my words but that was his drift). I told the buyer that the best time to fix the siding to roof problem is when the roof is replaced and to just monitor closely for moisture problems until then. The report still says it needs to be fixed!

No exterior siding of any type should be in contact with roof shingles, should have at least a 1/2" gap in my opinion. Looking at the photo it looks like roof above dormers does not extend past window trim, causing water damage I assume. Also looks like there may not be proper kick-out flashing at lower roof section, water stains on wall below gutter.

I would also add that those dormers due to their lack of proper overhangs will always be a problem.
Water will ways b pouring down the sides and front.
Those lower windows don't have drip edge flshings either?

Originally Posted by Vern Heiler

Thanks Steven; I was hoping you would weigh in. No moisture measurements just visual inspection. I also have seen many installations with the siding on the shingles, but in this case the stucco has damage. I couldn't understand his "so what" attitude, and the wait until there is displacement before worrying about a crack just hurt my head. He did see the stain and recommend kick-outs but was adamant about how hard coat was almost bullet proof and worry free. (those are my words but that was his drift). I told the buyer that the best time to fix the siding to roof problem is when the roof is replaced and to just monitor closely for moisture problems until then. The report still says it needs to be fixed!

Vern, If he did no testing then all he did was "kick the tires", kinda like when Uncle Joe inspects the house cuz he works at a lumber yard and that makes him experienced in construction.

SERIOUSLY, I would recommend that your clients get a REAL inspection. You are in the heart of EDI country, I'm sure there are real inspectors available. Just by the look of the photo I have a feeling the real inspection will be worth its weight in gold.

Regarding his "so what" attitude; let me guess... he was recommended by the agent.

Especially since he did no testing, what is CLEARLY visible is enough to give concern.

The value of his inspection is nil... no it is less than nil, it is potentially damaging.

Vern
Steven pretty much summed it up.

Trent
Not to pick but I don't know of any siding or cladding that lets you get by with 1/2" other than Vinyl siding.
The vinyl J is to be 1/2" off the roof; that is the closest material clearance I know of.
Most cladding have their minimums published in the installation instructions.
Most installation of any cladding are below minimum standards.

Originally Posted by Vern Heiler

.....stucco inspector shows up, which is a good thing and I recommend stucco specialist in my reports........He says "don't worry about it, its ok"....."its only cosmetic and not damaging anything structural". The banter went on for a while and I told him I would have to respectfully disagree.....

Sounds like the same story you sometimes get when you have a contractor over to repair/replace something they put in. Are you sure he wasn't the contractor who did the home?
Does he do stucco inspections on the side?

I hate it when I know more than the "expert". Makes for a pissing match, if I don't walk away.

You are right. There should be a two inch gap to the shingles from the weep screed bottom of the stucco (assuming there is a weep screed which around here is rare) But any gap beats none.

Hairline cracks are rarely a problem if the drainage plane is done correctly......so use your x-ray glasses to check that.

Around here, stucco done correctly is the exception.

How would a re-roof be done?