Thread: mobil home inspection

Hi, guys

possibly I am going to have a mobil home inspecion (trailer). Never done this before, anything special or what I should watch for? Thank you.

There are LOTS of differences - from the foundation to the roof, siding to windows, heating too. In the US we have HUD to set the standards, not your ordinary building standards. I don't know if Canada has any similar gov't entity to regulate the MH business, but you want to find out what the differences are, because it will make a world of difference.
As a constructed building be on the lookout for wood damage beneath the siding and underneath - especially at the perimeter, and under plumbing fixtures. Get to know the metal roof systems and what are problems. Windows are different, doors are different. There is too much difference to spell out in a single reply. Look up 'mobilehome' in the search box - there is some information there; also search other outlets on the internet such as you tube. You would be best off to find a local inspector who can let you tag along on his inspection, or give him your inspection and use it as a learning experience.

Originally Posted by Peter Louis

Hi, guys

possibly I am going to have a mobil home inspecion (trailer). Never done this before, anything special or what I should watch for? Thank you.

I don't know about you folks up north but around here they are called "Manufactured House", (unless it's very old).
But they are built to different standards than stick (site) built housing.

Manufactured home on steel frame.The home is supported on piers under the frame. The perimeter walls are skirting, not structural. Check for rot at the base of the skirting, wood on dirt. How many piers and are they level? Report if piers are on concrete footings or just dirt. Report if the wheels and axles have been removed. Report if there are tiedowns, which are usually cable straps to anchors, poly on the dirt? Ventilation in the skirting? Access to the crawlspace, electrical and water hookups, dryer vent pipe, holes in the membrane, rats, dogshit, etc.

Inside, have fun finding the water heater. It is behind a panel somewhere, often in a bedroom closet. Conduit on the electrical is Not required.

Locate CSA and BC registration #'s very important. Bonus, there is no attic to cawl through.

Originally Posted by John Kogel

Manufactured home on steel frame.The home is supported on piers under the frame. The perimeter walls are skirting, not structural. Check for rot at the base of the skirting, wood on dirt. How many piers and are they level? Report if piers are on concrete footings or just dirt. Report if the wheels and axles have been removed. Report if there are tiedowns, which are usually cable straps to anchors, poly on the dirt? Ventilation in the skirting? Access to the crawlspace, electrical and water hookups, dryer vent pipe, holes in the membrane, rats, dogshit, etc.

Inside, have fun finding the water heater. It is behind a panel somewhere, often in a bedroom closet. Conduit on the electrical is Not required.

Locate CSA and BC registration #'s very important. Bonus, there is no attic to cawl through.

Thank you John & everybody

If the belly wrap (poly sheet attached to underside of floor) has areas where it appears water is collecting don't poke it to check, well unless you have a probe on an extension pole...

Peter,

You might want to read through some of the different manufactures installation manuals. It will give you a little bit of insight.

http://www.claytonhomes.com/display/...20-%203-11.pdf

https://www.azchampion.com/inc/2008-...ion-manual.pdf

Inspect & Troubleshoot Mobile Homes, Double wides, Caravans, Manufactured Homes, & Trailers

Jeff Euriech
Arizona Prime Property Inspection LLC
.

Here's some things to look for, some of this depends on the age of home.

*Roof surface weak and uneven, damaged/bowed roof sheathing, damaged trusses. If it has standard asphalt/fiberglass shingles, check to see it there's more than one layer of roofing. Most manufactured home trusses are not designed to have more than one layer of shingles.
*Plumbing vents terminating less than 6" above roof.
*Inadequate roof/attic ventilation.
*If it's a double wide, look closely at the marriage seam for uneven floors.
*Polyethylene water supply pipes are common.
*Water heater TPR valve drain line terminating in crawlspace.
*AC condensation drain routed to drain in crawlspace.
*Underbelly covering and floor insulation torn open.
*If it has concrete block piers, check for loose wood block shims at top of piers.
*Foundation tie-downs present?
*If is has metal skirting check in crawlspace for deteriorated wood supports, untreated wood in contact with soil.
*Grounding at the main service disconnect, it's usually located away from home.
*HUD allows exposed Romex wire at the water heater electrical connection, when it's located in a closet.
*Judge it for what it is not what it could be.

Inspect & Troubleshoot Mobile Homes, Double wides, Caravans, Manufactured Homes, & Trailers

This is a good link to familiarize yourself with. Inspectapedia covers many of the aspects of MH (yes, manufactured home - mobilehome is not correct terminology as others' have stated, or PC).
But get to understand the differences, and criteria of MH construction vs stick built.

Get to know the HUD standards. One of these is this quote from the HUD site: "Homes built prior to June 15, 1976, even with modifications, do not meet the HUD standards and cannot be accepted as compliant with the HUD Code. As the homeowner, you may find a licensed engineer willing to inspect your home for compliance with your state's housing code. FHA does not insure mortgages on manufactured homes built prior to June 15, 1976. Most other mortgage insurance firms follow FHA's policy. "
Look for the Manufacturers' label (certification label), and HUD labels (or red tags) on the exterior and/or interior areas - note them in your report.
Also, never stop learning. Let us know how it goes.

Peter,
Though not sure about Canadian rules and regulations, this may be a good resource as well:

How to Inspect Manufactured and Mobile Homes:

"How to Inspect Manufactured and Mobile Homes" course - InterNACHI


Clark

The number one thing HUD/FHA are concerned with is the anchorage and tie down system, how it is secured to the ground so it will not blow off of its supports, the Dorothy Wizard of Oz effect.

All good info by everyone above. Also, check into Formaldehyde used in paneling, subflooring, cabinetry and countertops. Not so much after 1982 but it's still there. Check out the disclaimer FEMA came up with while selling Manufactured Homes to victims of Hurricane Katrina. Another thing, Cox vs. Shell Oil concerning Polybutelene Plumbing.

Check the ceilings above the inside of cabinets. Perfect place to find ceiling stains that the home owner failed to cover up.

If there is a HVAC crossover duct in the crawl on a double wide, check the connections, and the ducting should be raised off the ground.

Always make sure the tow equipment is in the crawl space, this is part of the inspection of mobil homes.
caution on overloaded roofing materials (sag will be noted).
Earth quake structure support in our neck of the woods.

Hope this helps

again, thank you every one. Probably the work can be done by the end of Jun. For sure I will let everybody know.

Originally Posted by Alton Darty

If the belly wrap (poly sheet attached to underside of floor) has areas where it appears water is collecting don't poke it to check, well unless you have a probe on an extension pole...

Is this a call out, poly attached on the cold side, causing condensate? vapor permeable?

Originally Posted by Peter Louis

Is this a call out, poly attached on the cold side, causing condensate? vapor permeable?

..........only should be noted if the belly-wrap is missing or torn. It will almost always end up with holes that should be sealed. Seems counter-intuitive based upon our knowledge regarding vapor barriers - but the wrap is a requirement. Some older homes actually used the belly space as the cold-air return to the furnace - don't see that any more, thankfully ..........Greg

Sometimes the belly board is a poly- or plastic sheeting, and sometimes a fiber pressboard material. If plastic, a plumbing leak will pool, and belly the plastic. Don't poke it or you will find it draining onto you. That's why he said 'unless you have a long stick'. In any case, the belly board should be complete, without holes. This is to keep insulation at the underside, and to keep animals from gaining access. It almost always has holes - whether from animals, or repair men fixing leaks - and should be patched/repaired.

Done this inspection which is just part of a commercial. The seller said this is a shabby & just a bonus
for the sale.
Anyway, no major issue except roof. The crawl is ok, poly on dirt, girds tied down with anchors, CSA & BC registered, minor issues for sure but acceptable. Thank you everyone.

The main building was originally built in 1920s & dug the basement in 1950s. The other side was left with a crawl on bare soil & no vents but it is dry. I just saw stain on sill plate & doubt this is moisture stain. I cannot tell if wood/soil contact at the foundation because the patio was built up to the siding.

Also there is another seperated addition(about 1997) which should be a slab on grade. But I can only see the wood on grade.

How can I addess the above issues? Thx.