Best way to repair?

Daryl Roche · 12-19-2014, 12:32 PM

Same house as the portal in the joist. How can I add strength to this area?

**Bruce Ramsey** · 12-19-2014, 02:14 PM

Add perpendicular headers to transfer the load to the adjacent joists and sill.

**John Kogel** · 12-19-2014, 04:34 PM

It is adjacent to a block wall. If that wall rests on a spread footing, you could put a post on a concrete pier under the joist. Just make sure the post is well clear of the dirt and has a moisture barrier, protection from the damp concrete.

Daryl Roche · 12-19-2014, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by John Kogel

It is adjacent to a block wall. If that wall rests on a spread footing, you could put a post on a concrete pier under the joist. Just make sure the post is well clear of the dirt and has a moisture barrier, protection from the damp concrete.

This joist sit next to the block wall and the sill joist sits on the outside edge of this wall so there is approx. eight inches of space between the two. Probably will go with the perpendicular method. Just shook my head and told him I'd get it fixed after the first of the year. The metal duct line above it is the new dryer vent line Installed to correct the use of flex. insulated heating line used for the last fifteen feet of the run. Thanks for the responses.

**Jerry Peck** · 12-19-2014, 05:17 PM

I would just build up a ledger bolted to that wall, build it out far enough to support that joist, no need to perpendicular headers or doubling of joists the headers are transferring the load to ... the joist is now carried on the new ledger.

**Mark Reinmiller** · 12-19-2014, 07:01 PM

A relatively simple fix is to notch out a piece of the sill adjacent to the notched joist (or notch the bottom of the joist 1-1/2" high) and run a 2x6 flat resting on the FW or sill over the bottom of the next joist. Attach through the 2x6 into the bottom of the joist with two lag bolts. Because of the leverage the load on the 2x6 and lag bolts is small.