Thread: Windows installed too far out?

i came across this house with all of the windows installed an inch or so out from the siding. Is there any problems I should report on this? It didn't look right but I wasn't sure what to say.

Thank you,
Jon

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I would suggest checking the manufacturers installation instructions. I would bet its wrong. There is no caulk around the sides at the siding. Probably no proper weatherproofing in the opening either.

I don't see any "J"Channels around the windows. This is one reason it looks kind of strange. You don't want to see caulk, if you did it would be wrong... The "J" channel directs water around the window or door so it does not run behind the siding. Go to this website and download the installation guide for vinyl siding. Installation Manual - VSI - The Vinyl Siding Institute

I see, so the water tightness of this installation is poor then.
I also attached a picture of the interior, it looked very strange to have such deep sill area.

Originally Posted by Jon mackay

I see, so the water tightness of this installation is poor then.
I also attached a picture of the interior, it looked very strange to have such deep sill area.

Those sills look normal....

All good advice Jon concerning manufacturer's installation instructions, but you might also recommend further evaluation by state licensed window contractor.
How about the roof rain-gutter downspout termination point and the non-code handrails serving the balcony deck stairs? Got those, right?

Those windows look like typical windows designed to hold vinyl siding in place without the J channel other than the fact that they stick out further than typical.

I can't see how the installation could be wrong ( not saying it is not wrong). Nailing flanges would be secured to the sheathing like any other window.

OK, I will call out that the windows are installed slightly further out than typical but appear serviceable.
It just looked a bit odd and many times that means wrong.

Thanks for the comments.

Also, what's that vent in the top of the wall for (above the deck)?

"Also, what's that vent in the top of the wall for (above the deck)?"

Jerry, that is not a vent but a block glass window above the bathtub area.

Jon,

What state are you in? (not apparent from your profile)

Aside from Jerry M's observations, isn't that an LP storage tank installed 'right up against' the house? It's not much, but by the various sizes of tanks, I thought the 'minimum distance from the building or any other combustible materials' was 5 feet. Also, how about that 'minimal' concrete slab mount base, laying on 'loose, uneven, soil' at the top of the rear yard slope?

Just my 2 cents.

Steve Lottatore

Steve,

I thought I had a copy of the drawing which shows the clearances for different size gas storage tanks, but I can't find it. Bob H., has one, and maybe some other saved his.

I believe that up to 125 gallon the tank can be right next to the house. the regulators need to be 5' from a building opening, which includes operable windows (horizontally and below for propane which is heavier than air, horizontally and above for natural gas which is lighter than air).

Over 125 gallon (basically meaning 250 gallon as the next standard size up from 120 gallon) the clearance from the building or any buildable lot line is 10 feet.

There is an aggregate accumulation for smaller tanks, I think it is up to 1000 gallons aggregate for smaller tanks, then they need to meet the 10 foot clearance.

Something like not, not exactly sure, though.

Regarding tank clearances:
http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_i...k_distance.gif

Brandon,

Thank you.

That is different than the one I had, but it more clearly depicts what is required.

Thanks.

I don't see the cumulative storage, though.

Seeing as how you are thanking me, I should thank you for the other thread showing that a 4 3/8" gap is allowed (up to 4 3/8" anyways) at stairwell areas--- you saved me from looking like a fool at some later date. Somehow I ignored exception 2, or just forgot

That is the first for me to see the depth of those channels. They may have been designed for Vinyl, wood, etc. and Brick veneer. Around here they use the standard vinyl windows with built in channel that just catches the back edge of the brick veneer. Then they caulk and hope for the best. Maybe those windows protrude further so it actually will give more depth for the brick for better sealing.

Also around here they are just now catching on to flash the bottom corners of the windows to overlap the nailing strip of the un-cut panel directly under the window so the water drains out of the weep holes along the edge of the panel that is notched and locked into it.
I Point out missing flashings since 97 when vinyl became popular and caught flak for years until they finally figured it out.

I am in New York state.

Thank you for the information everyone..