Thread: Using Wiring Up a Set of Lights To Work With My Security System

Matt Wilson

I want to use a Square D UFP222RNM 60A disconnect box or the plastic equivalent as a junction box in my attic to create a junction point for powering an exterior set (2) of motion sensor lights.

Each light is capable of accomodating two 150W bulbs but I would only be using 90W bulbs. Each light is also equipped with wires to power the motion sensing portion of the light and supply power to the bulbs. Each light also has a wire that can be used to power a downstream non-motion sensor controlled light via an internal relay. The thing about it is that this wire can also be used to power the motion sensor light bulbs in a bypass fashion at no detriment to the light.

The lights will be both locally and remotely controlled. The remote control being through an X10 XPS3 switch and my security system.

I would take the guts out of the box out and use the remaining shell as a junction box (box interior over 100 cubic inches).

Reason(s): Availability of materials at local hardware store, paying a low price for said materials, and rapid nature of install.

Plan of Action Beyond That Already Stated:

Run a 14-2 NM-B cable to the junction box and get power from a 15A GFCI breaker. Make use of two 14-3 cables already in place to drop down to a pair of switches in the garage. These switches would power the motion sensing half of the exterior lights (one switch per light in the pair).

Reason: To provide the ability to turn each lights motion sensing half off in the event the wind is blowing and falsely triggers on the light.

Another wire would run over to the X10 switch already alluded to which would exist near the backdoor and provide power to the bypass portion of the lights and thus provide both local control in the living space and remote control to the lights as a pair.

Reason: Reduced parts count and labor, convenience at the back door, security system and local control capability in the living area even though motion sensing half of the circuit may have been turned off.

From there, one 14-3 cable would be run to each light (so this would be 6 cables run into the box). Each cable would be fixed to the box using standard NM cable clamps.

To make the X10 switch work an appropriately sized icecube relay with base would be powered by the X10 switch already alluded to and the contacts of the icecube would deliver power to the lights (each relay has two sets of contacts rated at 10A) via the 14-3 wires already alluded to. The relay would be placed in the junction box.

Is this going to work?

Is it to code? If not can anyone cite breakdowns and corrective actions to come into code compliance.

Thanks.

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Matt,

This board is a board of and for home inspectors.

With questions such as the above you should be going to an electrical or code board. They may send you do a DIY board, but that advice is not always correct as it is not always from knowledgeable and experienced persons.