Thread: An interesting electrical problem

This puzzles me... When I turn my hood fan on for the stove, it resets the stove, like a complete loss of power for a split second, if your cooking something it will cancel the cooking and reset the clock to 10:40 I am at a loss here and not looking forward to digging into my recently renovated kitchen. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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Sounds like something is overheating. the clock is just going to a default setting.

Best

Ron

Originally Posted by John Naehring

This puzzles me... When I turn my hood fan on for the stove, it resets the stove, like a complete loss of power for a split second, if your cooking something it will cancel the cooking and reset the clock to 10:40 I am at a loss here and not looking forward to digging into my recently renovated kitchen. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Is this fan integral with the stove (like a Jenn-Air) or is this an independent hood that is suspended above the stove? If a part of the stove, it sounds like a loose electrical connection somewhere within the appliance. If separate from the stove, then I dunno. That would mean a phone call to an electrical contractor.

Does the range hood have a light? If so, turn on the light first and observe if the brightness drops when you turn on the fan. If it dims noticably, it may be that the fan motor is causing a significant voltage drop at start up. The clock on the range is resetting because of this voltage drop.

Is the fan variable speed? You can lessen the drop by starting the fan at it's highest setting.

Is the fan free spinning? Is it possible that the fan has obstructed movement?

These are just a few things to check first. My bathroom fan didn't work when my house was remodeled. When I took off the grate, I found that the installer didn't remove the packaging material.

Originally Posted by John Naehring

recently renovated kitchen

New appliance?

Call for warranty repair.

Joe described some possible causes, but only if that is built-in with the stove as Gunnar asked about.

If the range hood is separate, I can't see it causing the range to reset the clock unless you have some really poor connections someplace - really poor connections.

Thanks everyone for your responses, i'll give some more information as was asked.

1. I turned the light on and checked for dimmer and there was none checked on both high/low light and fan settings.

2. new appliances. Yes and we have already had a maytag repair man out who replaced the digital panel and brain.

3. poor connections are very likely these are poorly built condos, as the picture below illustrates this electrition didnt have much regard for safety or pride in his work.

4. it is not a built in hood, its stand alone

Yes this is my breaker box, FPE stab lok

Originally Posted by John Naehring

3. poor connections are very likely these are poorly built condos, as the picture below illustrates this electrition didnt have much regard for safety or pride in his work.

4. it is not a built in hood, its stand alone

Yes this is my breaker box, FPE stab lok

poor connections

FPE panel (which itself has poor connections where the breakers are supposed to stab into and lock into the bus bars, frequently the breakers will pop out in your face when the dead front cover is removed.

Take that door bell transformer out of there, no way is that supposed to be in there nor is it allowed to be in there. And in that small and tight panel, I am amazed that it has not grounded out to the bus bar.

I would invest another $1,000-1,500 and have an electrician replace the panel. Your problem just might go away with that only.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

poor connections

FPE panel (which itself has poor connections where the breakers are supposed to stab into and lock into the bus bars, frequently the breakers will pop out in your face when the dead front cover is removed.

Take that door bell transformer out of there, no way is that supposed to be in there nor is it allowed to be in there. And in that small and tight panel, I am amazed that it has not grounded out to the bus bar.

I would invest another $1,000-1,500 and have an electrician replace the panel. Your problem just might go away with that only.

I have an electrician coming in 2 weeks to replace the box.

Originally Posted by John Naehring

I have an electrician coming in 2 weeks to replace the box.

What price range did he quote you?

That information helps us help our clients by knowing current replacement costs in some areas, you are in MA.

Also gotta love the 120/240 circuit fed directly from the lugs!

Originally Posted by Richard Moore

Also gotta love the 120/240 circuit fed directly from the lugs!

Richard thems goes to da sub-panel

Best

Ron

Originally Posted by Richard Moore

Also gotta love the 120/240 circuit fed directly from the lugs!

Those go into a seperate 30 amp breaker to the left of the box for a dryer plug. we have propane dryers so I dont understand it.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

What price range did he quote you?

That information helps us help our clients by knowing current replacement costs in some areas, you are in MA.

$500 only because he is a family friend. I got a couple other quotes of 1000 and 1300. Both prices include me removing the drywall and repairing it afterwards.

As others have said, a bad connection.
Is the stove gas or electric?
If gas, are the stove and vent hood on the same circuit?
If so, check the netural connection on that circuit.
But in any case, you have an FPE Panel and need an electrican to check it out( replace it).

Originally Posted by Richard Moore

Also gotta love the 120/240 circuit fed directly from the lugs!

Originally Posted by John Naehring

Those go into a seperate 30 amp breaker to the left of the box for a dryer plug. we have propane dryers so I dont understand it.

Still not allowed as done.

Those needed to have been coming off a double pole 30 amp breaker to that disconnect/breaker.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

poor connections

FPE panel (which itself has poor connections where the breakers are supposed to stab into and lock into the bus bars, frequently the breakers will pop out in your face when the dead front cover is removed.

Take that door bell transformer out of there, no way is that supposed to be in there nor is it allowed to be in there. And in that small and tight panel, I am amazed that it has not grounded out to the bus bar.

I would invest another $1,000-1,500 and have an electrician replace the panel. Your problem just might go away with that only.

Exactly -Not a place for the transformer - spend the money and replace the panel.