Thread: ran out of nails

I think I'll institute a new policy of looking under the deck BEFORE walking out on the deck with four other people. Oh, don't worry. Some of the joist hangers had a nail or two.

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Sadly that is a fairly common condition. I run across it often.

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I think I'll institute a new policy of looking under the deck BEFORE walking out on the deck with four other people. Oh, don't worry. Some of the joist hangers had a nail or two.

john john john,
there is no need for nails to hold the hanger in place, that's what those little pound in metal punch outs are for! you were worried over nothing!

Originally Posted by brian schmitt

john john john,
there is no need for nails to hold the hanger in place, that's what those little pound in metal punch outs are for! you were worried over nothing!

Hey, I'm just a deal-killer. What can I say?

Previous HI called this out for no bond timber or hangers, the seller says he will do the repairs himself.
A dozen hangers, 15 roofing nails, VOILA!, ready for closing.

Originally Posted by James Risley

Owner needs to buy the nails made for hangers.

I didn't know they made a nail specifically for joist hangers?

Originally Posted by James Risley

Yes....Go to supplier for joist hangers and in the shelf will be a boxes of galvanised nails. They are of a larger diameter made to exactly fit the holes punched in the hangers and the heads are thicker to prevent them popping off the shaft under stress as can happen to the roofing nails. These nails are also heavily dipped in zinc to maximise their life span whereas in 15 years a electroplated roofing nail may in a humid location be severly rusted.

15 years? I've seen those EGP nail heads rust through and off in two.

The diameter is important as it will assure that the joist is positioned securely in the hanger. If a smaller diameter nail is used then the stress may not be transferred properly from the joist to the supporting member through the hanger. Also pay attention to the proper number of nails which should be placed in the hanger...very important. The nails are also of an exact length to penetrate the joists/supporting member to provide maximum holding power.

Most of the hangers specify a 10d or .148" x 1-1/2" long nail for the joists, and 10d - 16d hdg common nails for the ledger attachment. All nail holes so identified must be filled with the proper nails. Simpson provides a load reduction factor when nail substitution is used. For example, when using a 12d common nail where a 16d common nail was called for, the allowable load factor is .84 of the listed load for the hanger.

I thought it was due to the new pressure treated wood, not the hangers, and that in fact the hangers need to be different for pressure treated wood (e.g. triple coated or stainless--the latter of which I've never seen).

Best Practices : Framing : Pressure-Treated Wood Fasteners : HGTVPro.com

I recall a news story locally the past couple of years where the high deck collapsed because the wrong bolts were used to screw the thing into the side of the house. The pressure treated wood ate right through them.

I prefer to use black 1 1/4" drywall screws for the joist hangers.

Originally Posted by Kary Krismer

I thought it was due to the new pressure treated wood, not the hangers, and that in fact the hangers need to be different for pressure treated wood (e.g. triple coated or stainless--the latter of which I've never seen).

I use stainless hangers and fasteners when design criteria requires it or budget allows for it. They're typically two or three times as expensive than regular.

When not using stainless, I use Grace Vycor® Deck Protector™ to isolate the joist hangers from the PT lumber. Even the triple-coated stuff can rust and I'd like my structures to last a bit.

Originally Posted by Jim Robinson

I prefer to use black 1 1/4" drywall screws for the joist hangers.

You joke, but I once saw a deck with no hangers that used 3" drywall screws toed into the ledger.