Thread: Balcony/Porch

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Similar Threads:

• Balcony
• Porch
• Front Porch Roof Support
• Porch Re-Roof - How Should This Be "Flashed"
• Enclosed Porch

"Hello Fred Herndon, it appears that you have not posted on InspectionNews in several weeks. Why not take a few moments to ask a question, help provide a solution or just engage in a conversation with another member in any one of our forums?"

Aww, com'n Brian, Iv'e been pretty busy....well, OK.

Originally Posted by RobertSmith

Do agee that this system needs:

1- through bolts for the ledger board

2- diagonal bracing.

3- More clearance between grading and footing pad.

4- Flashing between house/flooring planks.

5- Rot damage flooring planks/posts.

Am I missing anything? Thanks!

1. Robert, typically I wouldn't expect to see through bolts in a ledger board. I think 3- # 10D nails under each joist is all that is required (16-D is better, of course). If you are referring to the band where it attached to the wall, then yes, definately!

2. Usually diagonal bracing is not required when masonry piers that size are used, unless you do things differently in Tejas than we do in NC. If needed someone could probably add bracing attached to the bottoms of deck joists. If the deck shakes I would say something, otherwise probably not.

3. Grading at the footing pad? I am not sure what you are referring to here. It looks like water should drain away OK. What is the concern?

4. If the deck is attached directly to the masonry, not a problem. It is kind of hard to tell from the pictures. If the deck band is attached to house framing, then yes, it should be flashed, preferably both behind the deck band and counterflashed at the flooring. If the deck is attached to a pressure treated band at the house then this may not be required, but it is still a good idea.

5. Pressure treated lumber should not rot so quickly, however there have been varying qualities of treated lumber sold. There certainly appears to be a white fungus like material on the bottom of the handrail support and on flooring. Were you able to probe this area to see if it is still solid?

My main concern would be with the main girder over the piers. I cannot see how it is anchored or braced to prevent it from leaning or turning over and I cannot see how the upper deck structure is attached.

Originally Posted by RobertSmith

Do agee that this system needs:

1- through bolts for the ledger board
Sure, but usually lag bolts. Nails dont cut it, there needs to be positive connection to the home framing.

2- diagonal bracing.
??? What kind of connection is there between the header and post??

3- More clearance between grading and footing pad.
If its a venner over wood framing, it should have a weep screed to drain moisture and there would need to be 4" clearance to soil (although rare to see this)

4- Flashing between house/flooring planks.
Flashing between house/ledger board is what should be in place. Cant really tell from the pics.

5- Rot damage flooring planks/posts.
Yep - unsafe.

Am I missing anything? Thanks!

Come to think of it, I do not beleive that a deck can be mounted directly to a home that has a veneer covering the exterior wall. I am pretty sure it needs to be "free standing" from the home. Anybody else positive???

Blue text is my reply...