Thread: Deck question

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The pressure treated is fine in my opinion.
James Hardi recommends 2 inch clearance from its products at decks, paths,steps, driveways. 1/4 inch clearance bottom of flashing. No caulking at that point.

That wood block certainly is not supporting much of anything. My guess is it was toenailed there to hold the joist in place until it was supported at the ends and was never removed. (There are posts supporting the end opposite the house, right?)

Are those 2X4 joists? If so, you might want to check the span tables to see if they are overspanned.

How is the deck supported at the house? Ledger bolted to the rim joist?

As far as flashing, it should go on top of the deck joists and behind the siding. It's purpose is to keep water from getting between the rim joist and ledger board and rotting them out.

Was this a Harry Homeowner-built deck?

"Any problems with having this 2x4 treated would in between the origional porch slab and foundation? (Homeowner installed a deck on top of slab)."


Not that I can think of

"Also, does anyone recommend L-flashing going up behind the siding and then on top of the first row planks to prevent water from deteriorating the bottom course of hardie plank?"

If that is Hardi plank, than it will not deteriorate because of water.

Yep, eventually it will degrade/decay/rot and is not properly supporting the rim joist. Only is supporting the one deck plank above, now this plank has to carry the deck load.

I liken it to when PT is used as sill plate it has to have a barrier installed.

Originally Posted by Rick Cantrell

"Any problems with having this 2x4 treated would in between the origional porch slab and foundation? (Homeowner installed a deck on top of slab)."


Not that I can think of

"Also, does anyone recommend L-flashing going up behind the siding and then on top of the first row planks to prevent water from deteriorating the bottom course of hardie plank?"

If that is Hardi plank, than it will not deteriorate because of water.

Hardi plank will deteriorate due to water. One reason they have 2 inch clearance. I have seen it.

That deck is too close to the house.

That masonite siding will look like cornbread in few years. How can one inspect the foundation for possible cracks or those god forsaken termite tubes when a deck is that close.

PT wood setting directly on the concrete will eventully rot out and the deck will settle.

If you don't think PT wood will decay, email me your address and I'll send you one of about 100 fence posts I have out back of the barn at my dads place. They are looking for a good home.

Originally Posted by dan orourke

Also, does anyone recommend L-flashing going up behind the siding and then on top of the first row planks to prevent water from deteriorating the bottom course of hardie plank?

Maybe I'm not understanding, but how would that protect the siding from water? The water would just sit on the flashing, instead of on the planking, wouldn't it?

[QUOTE=dan orourke;19732]I couldn't tell if the ledger board was nailed or not...i suspect nailed.

Joists where nailed, no joist hangers used.

What do you guys think of the posts into the concrete footings, are they proper?


You could always say a post base with standoff should have been used.
Simpson makes them.

[quote=David Banks;19758]

Originally Posted by dan orourke

I

What do you guys think of the posts into the concrete footings, are they proper?.

Dan,

They advertise those at the Big Boxes as Floating Decks as the ground heaves so does the deck. Proper? They seem to think so. Would I want one

What's under it? Stored wood or supports?