Thread: Drainiage plane for suspended masonry patio

This is an 8 year old home with a masonry patio that is partially covered by a roof. Construction materials/methods under the patio are not visible as a wood plank ceiling is in place.

Considering water will enter the masonry patio surface, as I recall researching this years ago, there has to be a drainiage plane for the water to escape. I should see a flashing-type material between the stone and brick along the perimeter (see photos), but nothing is visible. Am I correct or is water entry typically not taken into account and required to be dealt with?

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Pic's of the roof patio surface is required.
1: The brick veneer drainage plane are weep holes.
2: The ceiling is vaulted.

Areas of concern, drains, and that poorly finished roof.
A parapet and scuppers would have prevented that moss growth.
Amature patio design.

Gutters would be a solutions with a rubber backing were the pan meets the brick.

Originally Posted by Randall Clark

... with a masonry patio ...

Considering water will enter the masonry patio surface, ...

First, I would refer to that as a balcony instead of a patio, or if you want to use the term patio then 'elevated patio'.

Second, I would also not use the term masonry patio, instead I would describe it as tile/stone/paver flooring on the balcony.

If that were a concrete balcony, it would be its own drainage plane, but that is most likely a ceiling/floor system, wood frame or wood trusses, and, yes, a roof is required over the structure and under the tile/stone/paver flooring.

About all you can do it report it as the underlying roof covering is not visible and is unknown, and that the underlying roof cover as no visible drainage means along the perimeter and is thus likely not the proper roofing system for the installation and/or is not properly installed, and that the only way to know would be to remove some of the tile/stone/paver flooring to expose what is underneath and possibly expose how it was installed. Then add that the moss growth and debris build-up is further indication of poor drainage and likely improper material and/or improper installation.

The reason for all the and/or is that you have no idea what is under that flooring or how it was installed, but that it does not look right.

Was there a slope to the flooring? If not, that is an even bigger flag as it should have at least a 1/4" per foot slope at the drainage plane, and possibly even a greater slope at the drainage plane (keeping in mind that the slope at the drainage plane may be the same as the slope of the flooring surface or may be more or less than the flooring surface slope (you would not want the flooring surface slope to be greater than 1/4" per foot).

Additionally, at the top of that brick veneer wall, you should see a through the wall flashing of some type (which would normally be part of the roofing system under the flooring), otherwise there may be water pouring down into that wall.

Good point, balcony/raised patio.

Secondly, if it was masonry, the flooring for a balcony/raised patio, the landing surface, would be concrete, or concrete with a corrugated steel a substrate.

A masonry wall can be coped with masonry, manufactured or natural masonry coping stones.

A proper inside wall flashed with an appropriate flashing material.
If the balcony/raised patio surface covering material is modified bitumen, it would have a modified bitumen cap flashing, but metal flashing, galvanized steel, mostly observe on flat decks.
IE: Flat being 2/12 - <0/12 slope decks. (1/4" pre 1' foot or 1/4"/12" slope)

Slope to the drain or slope to the exterior is required.
The surface appears sloped to the exterior.

I am sure a capillary break can be achieved by excavating masonry between the coping stones and bricks and packing the void with a diverter flashing, foam backer/dowel rod and sealed with polyurethane caulk. Never was a fan of mortar in this case. The steel expand and mortar bond loss is inevitable.
Thoughts?

Thank you, guys. Excellent points.