Thread: Freestanding patio cover

just wanted to run this by the group:
1) lumber for headers between posts was Yellowood 1 1/4 x6 deck boards (don't know the exact dimension but it is used as deck flooring, looks like about 1 1/4 by 6). So, it's not a true 2x6 but there was one on each side of the post). Shouldn't these be a true 2x6?

2) Support posts were Yellowood 4x4's embedded in concrete patio slab.Deck was freestanding. Shouldn't the posts have diagonal braces to the headers since it is freestanding? I could push on the post and get the patio cover to sway. Also note the rafter ties attached with screws, some holes not filled.

Similar Threads:

• Water damage from patio door
• Exterior Outlets, GFCI, Bubble Cover,
• Electrical cable insulation cover
• From the old board, Plywood Patio & Plywood Sidewalk
• Table of Contents on the Cover Page?

If it sways it needs bracing right? Not brain surgery. Bracket to the side wall of the home not a bad idea either.

1x lumber is 3/4"
2x is 1-1/2"
5/4 is 1-1/4"

It is called 5/4 as that is what you are getting, starts out different than 1x and 2x.

Those diagonal braces would be 'knee braces', and, yes, in most areas, you would want to install them with most construction methods. With enough steel brackets, angles, supports, etc., they would replace the need for knee braces as they would have a certain amount of built-in rigidity.

Nailed or bolted lumber does not make for tight and rigid joints. Meaning things can sway.

I would be careful about anchoring it to the house, you could cause leaks at the attachment points.

If it sways, regardless 'how much steel' is there, it needs bracing, typically that would be diagonal bracing or maybe just knee bracing (knee bracing does not extend down as far as diagonal bracing).

I agree, if it sways it needs bracing. I was hoping for something in the IRC that said so, but I couldn't find any bracing requirements for patio covers.

Originally Posted by Eric Laney

I agree, if it sways it needs bracing. I was hoping for something in the IRC that said so, but I couldn't find any bracing requirements for patio covers.

Eric,

Don't think of it as a "patio cover", think of it as a "structure" ... then apply the rules for a "structure".

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

If it sways, regardless 'how much steel' is there, it needs bracing

Sometimes all the education, experience, and time spent studying just can't replace good ole fashion common sense.

I am being told to put the Sheathing at the ends of the rafters. Then I have heard to install the Sheathing 1/2" beyond the rafters. I am allowing two knuckles overhang for the the Felt Paper and also the Shingles. Could I have your opinion about where the Sheathing ought to be installed?

Even with the Rafters or 1/2" overhang beyond the Rafters?

I am waiting for three good days of weather to install the Sheathing, Felt Paper; and the Asphalt Shingles. I have CDX 1/2" Sheathing. Can I put the Sheathing sheets on even it it rains afterward? Will it hurt the CDX?

soggysox2@q.com

Thanks

Originally Posted by Harry Harper

I am being told to put the Sheathing at the ends of the rafters. Then I have heard to install the Sheathing 1/2" beyond the rafters. I am allowing two knuckles overhang for the the Felt Paper and also the Shingles. Could I have your opinion about where the Sheathing ought to be installed?

Even with the Rafters or 1/2" overhang beyond the Rafters?

You will be installing sub-fascia/fascia along the ends of the rafters, right? The roof sheathing should be installed so that the sheathing is over the sub-fascia/fascia and nailed to the sub-fascia/fascia. Then install a 1x2 furring strip along the outside of the sub-fascia/fascia and the drip edge will hang down in front of the furring strip and down past the bottom of the drip edge, creating a rain drip edge which is 3/4" out from the sub-fascia/fascia.

Can I put the Sheathing sheets on even it it rains afterward? Will it hurt the CDX?

Yes, but you will need to wait until the roof sheathing dries out before covering it with underlayment and then dry out again (if the underlayment gets wet) before installing the shingles.