Thread: Test Complete!!

One of the most frequent call back for the garage door business is for doors that stop while closing. Very frequently the reason is due to someone correctly setting the force setting and the door meets a rough spot on the way down.

The door association knows this and wants to reduce call backs for their members. ie. they don't want us checking for proper force settings because only 2 out of 10 doors will pass. None of the new homes pass.


Builders also have inspection checklists for new homes TOO, do you guy's use those too? HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!

Anyone find the problem with DASMA's document as I posted earlier?

I thought you guy's were "up to date" ? hahahahahha!
I guess not.


I'll post the info if no one can figure it out by the time I get home later today.

Now gentlemen. Would you wish to replace that 2x4 with your grandsons neck. Would you like to see if the door pushes his windpipe back to his backbone and then the solid portion of his back bone finally adds enough resistance to make the door reverse. I think your grandson will not recover.
Not a pretty picture

Now, Which one of you wants to replace that 2x4 with you son, daughter, grandson or grand daughters neck

Gee, a lot of silence out there.

I did not think so.

Not trying to tick anyone off. You put that mental picture into the judge or juries brain cells and ask them the same question at closing argument.

You tell them of the varying tests from DASMA's website to its technical sheets for home inspectors.

Test the door with your 2x4 and not with light pressure from your hand and then when the door reverses with that 2x4 and you tell them at their door reverses per DASMA's test, the reverse is working properly and you say, sorry about your baby but I did what some controversial testing procedures tell me to do. I can just here or visualize what that parent is going to do to you. At that point they are not going to care about some damn court.

Uh oh, Teds getting excited. Shut up Ted.

Answer this one question. Would you replace that 2x4 with your 14 month old baby's neck. Or, and I ask , or would you feel much more comfortable knowing you put some light pressure at the bottom of the door about knee height, the door just starts to add pressure and then reverses.

By the way. How many babies do you know that have a head the width of a 2x4, or their neck or chest.

Test the door, tell them of the test, tell them they should do a follow up with a garage door company.

Sorry to be so controversial about this.

Ted,

I don't like your scenario.

That said I don't like the prospect of all my assets and future assets going to someone who would allow an unattended infant to be injured as you describe.

Here's one for you Ted

I see household chemicals under the sink ( many more injuries / deaths reported from these) than garage doors.

Do I tell the Client not to allow the same 14 month old to drink the Drain Cleaner ?

Hi,

I'm not an inspector, but I really enjoy reading your posts and learn a lot from them.

I had no idea inspecting the reverse feature of a grage door opener could get so complicated and controversial, but I believe if I were doing this for a living I would take $20 and a few hours time and build a test box that, when placed in the path of a closing garage door, would cause the door to reverse prior to reaching a set pressure, or failing that cut the power to the opener.

What do you think?

Originally Posted by Errol Miller

Hi,

I'm not an inspector, but I really enjoy reading your posts and learn a lot from them.

I had no idea inspecting the reverse feature of a grage door opener could get so complicated and controversial, but I believe if I were doing this for a living I would take $20 and a few hours time and build a test box that, when placed in the path of a closing garage door, would cause the door to reverse prior to reaching a set pressure, or failing that cut the power to the opener.

What do you think?

.
Errol,

If it were that simple.

We are required to perform a Home Inspection by approved methods ( no matter how we might agree or disagree with those approved methods. )

Built it as an Approved & Recognized Testing Method and send me 2 of them with a stock option.

As I’m sure you all know that I was making fun of garage door retraction testing with my imaginary doll, right? However, I have tussled with that 2x4 testing method since I first heard about it. I went to “Tools-Be-Us” and bought a pressure pad manufactured specifically for testing the impact in FPPI for overhead garage doors. The first week the average ppi was around 400 and since my testing device was about 1-1/2” thick I figured that what did putting a 2x4 under a door really prove?

I mean either way the child was going to be seriously injured or worse whether the door retracted after hitting them or not. Therefore I firmly believe that the 2x4 method is ridiculous and the entire process of testing should be re-thought. If I where inspecting today I would adopt Scott Patterson’s methodology regarding overhead garage door safety retraction devices and feel 100% relieved I didn’t have to conduct such a silly test dreamed up but some moronic government agency run by political appointees.

FWIW I also never tripped a water heater’s PTRV to see if it worked but once and that cost me 165 bucks.
Plus, I stopped taking the dead front covers off FedPak and Zinsco electrical distribution panels during the early 90s and included these web sites in my inspection report depending whose make I ran into: Federal Pacific Electric FPE Stab-Lok Panel Circuit Breaker Hazard, Repairs, Electrical Panel Replacement Electricians Directory for Stab-Lok Repairs AND Zinsco Electrical Panel and Circuit Breaker Hazards, Failures, Inspection, Detection, Repair, Replacement - Sylvania Zinsco circuit breakers and panel hazards.
I’m sure by opinion(s) will not be popular with some of the guys I highly respect on this BB, but there they are and I’m sticking with them.

The reason this subject keeps coming up is that there are GOOD reasons for it. We simply have too many different opinions on a simple issue.

Here are some facts that are brought to light in this thread:

1. DASMA does not do a good job of keeping ALL of their documents updated.

2. DASMA took out the force setting test that used to exist and still exists on some of their web pages. The reason first reason is obvious, they were afraid someone was going to have a door fall on their head or get crushed.
The 2nd reason takes a little more intuition and deductive reasoning to figure out: Home inspectors were causing their members way too many door call backs!

3. Doors do not have to be grabbed underneath, many have braces that can be used. The force setting can be checked at heights other than waist level, it can be safely done at 12 inches if you use the brace or back of the door frame. Force settings can be safely estimated by most good inspectors who have some idea of what force, weight and momentum are.

4. The 2x4 test is a totally different test than the arm/hand method.
A good 2x4 test can leave a door with very very high force settings. All the 2x4 test does is make sure the down limit is not interferring with the reversal feature and that the reversal feature is at least present. Reversal feature checking DOES NOT do ANYTHING to verify actual force reversal settings!

5. The arm/hand method may not be perfect but it is the BEST method available without using some type of measuring tool such as scales.

6. Some of us have SOP's to follow and do not choose to trust DASMA for obvious reasons. Their latest testing method does not check for force setting safety level AT ALL. Most openers have these adjustments available and easily tweakable by Joe homeowner! Talk about scary!

7. NC for one requires us to check for reasonable force reversal and the 2x4 test DOES NOT give that information AT ALL, PERIOD!

8. Most SOPS allow you to opt out of the test if a car is parked there or you simply don't think the old door or installation method is up to the proper testing.





I spent 20 years working as an engineer and finding engineering mistakes made by the manufacturer on equipment costing eighty thousand times as much as a freakin door opener, so don't tell me that so and so is always right because they ARE the manufacturer or some association is right because they represent the opener companies! I was the guy who found many of the problems that the manufacturer could not even figure out.

Originally Posted by Errol Miller

I had no idea inspecting the reverse feature of a garage door opener could get so complicated and controversial, but I believe if I were doing this for a living I would take $20 and a few hours time and build a test box that, when placed in the path of a closing garage door, would cause the door to reverse prior to reaching a set pressure, or failing that cut the power to the opener.

That's one of the problems.

There is not "set pressure" to set it to. There is no specified pressure for a pressure or force test.

(underlining is mine)

Sec. 1211.7 Inherent entrapment protection requirements.
- (a) Other than the first 1 foot (305mm) of travel as measured over the path of the moving door, both with and without any external entrapment protection device functional, the operator of a downward moving residential garage door shall initiate reversal of the door within 2 seconds of contact with the obstruction as specified in paragraph (b) of this section. After reversing the door, the operator shall return the door to, and stop at, the full upmost position, unless an inherent entrapment circuit senses a second obstruction or a control is actuated to stop the door during the upward travel. Compliance shall be determined in accordance with paragraphs (b) through (i) of this section.
- (b) A solid object is to be placed on the floor of the test installation and at various heights under the edge of the door and

located in line with the driving point of the operator. When tested on the floor, the object shall be 1 inch (25.4 mm) high. In the test installation, the bottom edge of the door under the driving force of the operator is to be against the floor when the door is fully closed. For operators other than those attached to the door, the solid object is to be located at points at the center, and within 1 foot of each end of the door.
- (c) An operator is to be tested for compliance with paragraph (a) of this section for 50 open-and-close cycles of operation while the operator is connected to the type of residential garage door with which it is intended to be used or with the doors specified in paragraph (e) of this section. For an operator having a force adjustment on the operator, the force is to be adjusted to the maximum setting or at the setting that represents the most severe operating condition. Any accessories having an effect on the intended operation of entrapment protection functions that are intended for use with the operator, are to be attached and the test is to be repeated for one additional cycle.
- (d) For an operator that is to be adjusted (limit and force) according to instructions supplied with the operator, the operator is to be tested for 10 additional obstruction cycles using the solid object described in paragraph (b) of this section at the maximum setting or at the setting that represents the most severe operating condition.
- (e) For an operator that is intended to be used with more than one type of door, one sample of the operator is to be tested on a sectional door with a curved track and one sample is to be tested on a one-piece door with jamb hardware and no track. For an operator that is not intended for use on either or both types of doors, a one-piece door with track hardware or a one-piece door with pivot hardware shall be used for the tests. For an operator that is intended for use with a specifically dedicated door or doors, a representative door or doors shall be used for the tests. See the marking requirements at Sec. 1211.16.
- (f) An operator, using an inherent entrapment protection system that monitors the actual position of the door, shall initiate reversal of the door and shall return the door to, and stop the door at, the full upmost position in the event the inherent door operating "profile" of the door differs from the originally set parameters. The entrapment protection system shall monitor the position of the door at increments not greater than 1 inch (25.4 mm). The door operator is not required to return the door to, and stop the door at, the full upmost position when an inherent entrapment circuit senses an obstruction or a control is actuated to stop the door during the upward travel.
- (g) An operator, using an inherent entrapment protection system that does not monitor the actual position of the door, shall initiate reversal of the door and shall return the door to and stop the door at the full upmost position, when the lower limiting device is not actuated in 30 seconds or less following the initiation of the close cycle. The door operator is not required to return the door to and stop at the full upmost position when an inherent entrapment circuit senses an obstruction or a control is actuated to stop the door during the upward travel. When the door is stopped manually during its descent, the 30 seconds shall be measured from the resumption of the close cycle.
- (h) To determine compliance with paragraph (f) or (g) of this section, an operator is to be subjected to 10 open-and-close cycles of operation while connected to the door or doors specified in paragraphs (c) and (e) of this section. The cycles are not required to be consecutive. Motor cooling-off periods during the test meet the intent of the requirement. The means supplied to comply with the requirement in paragraph (a) of this section and Sec. 1211.8(a) are to be defeated during the test. An obstructing object is to be used so that the door is not capable of activating a lower limiting device.
- (i) During the closing cycle, the system providing compliance with Secs. 1211.7(a) and 1211.7(f) or 1211.7(a) and 1211.7(g) shall function regardless of a short- or open-circuit anywhere in any low-voltage external wiring, any external entrapment devices, or any other external
component.

You will notice it is time-based, not force based.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

DASMA has an error on their site on this page:

DASMA Door and Access Systems Manufacturers Association

Safety Reverse. Since 1993, all openers manufactured for the U.S. must include a second safety reversing feature such as photoelectric eyes. These are installed near the floor. Once the invisible beam is broken, the door reverses automatically. If your opener lacks a similar safety reversing feature, it’s time to get a new opener.


Lets see which EW can find the error first.

Hint, its not a typo or wrong date, its wrong information in the above paragraph.

Got any good inspectors who are up to date enough to figure out what is wrong with the above DASMA quote?

Hint, its missing info, not just a play on words.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

That's one of the problems.

There is not "set pressure" to set it to. There is no specified pressure for a pressure or force test.

component.

You will notice it is time-based, not force based.

In NC, we have to make our checks "force based".

Any good inspector will make sure the door is safe or disclaim and refer it to a specialist.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

That's one of the problems.

There is not "set pressure" to set it to. There is no specified pressure for a pressure or force test.

There is now for the new wayne Dalton I-drive openers.

They are certified to stop and reverse at LESS THAN 15 lbs throughout their entire range of travel by mapping the friction etc. during the setup mode via a microprocessor based firmware routine that adds the "15 lbs" to each stored sample point.

Oh my

I came on this morning after setting up my inspections just to see what was going on.

Oh my

Billy

Sorry about the visual. Just making a point. Oh yeah, I do tell my clients about child safety latches as well. I guess I am just to nice a guy.

Oh my, I hope I was not responsible for everyone blood pressure.

Sorry but I do what I can in a reasonable amount of time. I inspected 2 homes today and did my usual garage door test. I told them what I did and wrote it. I told them that they should not rely on my preliminary testing. I told them about pressure, the 2x4, the photo beams. Same thing I do in every inspection. Both parties understood completely ( I ask them to tell me what I told them and wrote and they understood that I did as thorough but not exhaustive test and they should do an immediate follow up and have the doors controls tested monthly. The monthly thing always has them with that caught in the headlight bit.

They had no misconception that I did a definitive test. They thanked me (as always) for a very thorough inspection and explanation of the inspection (whole house) We parted ways with everyone happy and sending more work my way.

Clients are not stupid. Most have more edumication than me and most of you. (nothing bad meant) They understand facts, theories, limits. Talk to them, explain to them. Put it all in your report. We are not the only ones out there with extra brain cells to understand. Treat them with respect. Don't treat them like idiots or you will get the same in return.

Live happily ever after

Originally Posted by Bruce King

--so don't tell me that so and so is always right because they ARE --

Bruce,

Who said that? ( And I'm sure no one has Successfully Told You Anything for Sometime.)
.

Originally Posted by Ted Menelly

Oh my

Billy

I am just to nice a guy.

Live happily ever after

.
Why Thank you Pardner, ( in this Heat? )
.

Originally Posted by Billy Stephens

.

But please don't get in Court and on the stand & say UL & DASMA are wrong ( you are right ) and them other guys should be the ones as the defendant in these proceedings.

.

Yes, Billy those guy's are wrong and I am right.

Follow their partial testing instructions and you will have many doors that can kill someone.

Actually, people tend to trip the sensors, the real likely victims are personal property including the garage doors which are not cheap any more.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

the real likely victims are personal property including the garage doors which are not cheap any more.

Those are not "victims", those are expendable and replaceable parts of the structure.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

.Yes, Billy those guy's are wrong and I am right.

.

.
Let me check ( Nope ! )
.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

They are certified to stop and reverse at LESS THAN 15 lbs throughout their entire range of travel by mapping the friction etc. during the setup mode via a microprocessor based firmware routine that adds the "15 lbs" to each stored sample point.

All overhead doors should, and, they also should stop at 25 pounds upward pressure - in case something is blocking the door from being raised.

However, being as you point out that door with that drive, but either apparently did not read or review the installation instructions or did not think we would, here is *how to test them* - from the manual.

From page 31 of the manual: (underlining is mine)
28 Contact Obstruction Test

Tools Needed: 2 x 4 Board

After installing the opener, the door must reverse when it contacts a 1-1/2” high object (or a 2 x 4 board laid flat) on the garage floor.

Using the wall station, activate the door to the fully open position.

Place a 2 x 4 board flat on the garage floor, under the door path.

Activate the door to the closed position with the wall station. Upon contacting the 2 x 4 board, the door should stop, then reverse direction within two seconds and travel to the full open position.

If the door does not respond to the required tests, repeat profile routine Step 24 or 25, making sure the door is in the fully closed position prior to activation.

Bruce,

I may be missing something, but ... tell me where it states, shows, or indicates that you are testing for "force"?

Another thing I may be missing ... show me where that test is any different than the 2x4 test for other garage doors - 'cause I'm missin' that too.

What you are missing is this:

The instructions are poor, they are NOT complete and they WILL leave you with dangerous doors. The instructions do not include FORCE setting reversal checks.

Why are you so hung up on letting the opener manufacturer dictate the inspection process? Do you think they are smarter than you?

I think you are way smarter than them but need to admit that the published instructions are NOT complete.



I actually inspected a new home this morning that had the force setting at the proper range. The sad thing is that the sensors were a little too high, the wall switch too low and the tracks too close together where the door would stop and go back up every 2nd or 3rd trial when the rollers hit the track bolt heads.

I indicated in the report that raising the force level would not be a proper repair and took a picture of the force adjustment control.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

The instructions are poor, they are NOT complete and they WILL leave you with dangerous doors. The instructions do not include FORCE setting reversal checks.

need to admit that the published instructions are NOT complete.

.
Page 38

( maybe they have a visual aid Manufacturers Instructions Offering.)

Billy, I don't get your sarcasm, but anyway, the "instructions" we have been talking about are those of DASMA (where have you been? need visual aids help? LMAO)

I see you posted 1 page from some wayne dalton instructions, very good work, now which opener is that from?

Congratulations Wayne Dalton, for agreeing with me! woohoo!!

For those who are tracking this thread,

We have just found out that DASMA is trying to keep home inspectors from following instructions published by wayne dalton by publiShing their own abbreviated instructions THAT LEAVE OUT THE FORCE SETTING CHECKS!


It seems that many "experts" are making themselves scarce now.

Come on guys, we might can end up getting some changes to SOPS, DASMA documents etc. AND most importantly, pass this on to other inspectors that believe following "instructions" is better than using your common sense or technical knowledge or both actually.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

--which opener is that

Last from the Bottom of the list. ( only one I Read. ) in Installation Instructions residential section.

Lift-master is one of the units I see all the time. On page 21 there is Force adjustments and how to test that. http://www.liftmaster.com/pdfdocs/114A3088.pdf

Our State says we have to check for reasonable resistance during closing. I find them wrong all the time.
Now the Instructions also say if you make adjustments to one you may have to make adjustment to the safety reversal with a 2x4, and test it, which when the Tech comes to adjust the force they will have to make sure the 2x4 test is done if they follow the instructions. Which relieves me of the burden.

So checking the force and it's wrong prompts the tech to come out which then they Must do the other test (required by the manufacture). This will provide the safety That I feel comfortable with for my clients and keep me from hot water (damage) from the 2x4 test.

People that claim they damage doors from applying resistance with there hands has no concept of resistance and should disclaim them.

My 7 yr old Genie, noisy, screw drives only say this in the manual:

has basic info and then:

"Set minimum force required to make door close"

I have emailed the head guy at DASMA and asked him to read this thread 2 or 3 times.

We probably have a few thousand inspectors out there that just don't understand how to test an opener properly and the blame can mostly be placed on DASMA in my opinion because too many inspectors thought that was the "way to do it".


Don't forget, I am not trying to get anyone to actually do the testing correctly unless they understand the risks involved that are mostly due to failure to fully analyze and tug on the door hardware BEFORE testing.


If you really visualy inspect these doors, you will have no reason to do operational checks on most of the older ones due to loose/missing hardware or improper installation. Doing so is what causes them to break when they are already faulty. I broke one my first year because I failed to closely look at the connection on the arm. It folded up the top panel with about 3-5 lbs of resistance. The sellers knew it was already bad so no problem there.

Stopping the door with your arm at arm height, waist height, or even knee height, DOES NOT TELL YOU ANYTHING.

Oh yes it does, read the instructions. It tells you the "force" is to strong if you can't stop it by grasping the door.

I'll go with the manufacture instruction any day then the DASMA

For those of you that have not had the chance to actually do a manual force setting check on a Wayne Dalton I-drive opener......


When you do, slowly add force as it goes from knee height downwards and when it stops and reverses, I can guarantee, you will say "sweet !"

It feels very nice and actually reverses at a very low force, the specs say less than 15, it feels like 5-7 lbs to me. I have checked about 20 of these and they all feel the same.

The emergency disconnect handle at the right side feels crappy but it works and resets itself when the handle is taken off the bracket.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

What you are missing is this:

The instructions are poor, they are NOT complete and they WILL leave you with dangerous doors. The instructions do not include FORCE setting reversal checks.

Bruce,

WHAT YOU ARE MISSING IS ... (drum roll here) ... WE ARE DISCUSSING THE PROPER, LEGITIMATE, AND LEGAL WAY to test the AUTO REVERSE.

Yeah, you know, THE AUTO REVERSE?

THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS ... even the ones you tried to use to defend yourself with, state outright HOW TO INSPECT THE REVERSING FEATURE, and, yeah, it is with a 2x4 laid flat.

That 15 pounds downward force / 25 pounds upward force has been around a quite some time, at least 8 years or more - just in case you think you have discovered something 'new'.

REGARDLESS, those are the tests made in the testing labs to verify that the operators meet the standards for accepting the garage overhead door operators ... they are not the test to be used in the field.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

That's one of the problems.

There is not "set pressure" to set it to. There is no specified pressure for a pressure or force test.

Then why didn't you know about in the above post?


We are discussing opener inspection methods here, NOT just your little 2x4 test.

By the way, did you not read any of the manuf. instructions?
They tell you how to check the FORCE SETTINGS (on some anyway)


Why are you considering DASMA as being the legitimate source?
They had the correct procedure once and have removed it.
It being subjective was not a legitimate reason to remove the important FORCE SETTING checks!

You are now back pedalling Jerry.

Quit trying to muddy the water here for your own amusement.
We all know by now what the 2x4 test is checking, (contact reversal) and IT IS NOT at all what I am talking about here.

The simple fact is that YOU CAN NOT TEST a garage door without using some method of checking the force setting.

Go ahead and do a half job, its your choice.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

DASMA has an error on their site on this page:

DASMA Door and Access Systems Manufacturers Association

Safety Reverse. Since 1993, all openers manufactured for the U.S. must include a second safety reversing feature such as photoelectric eyes. These are installed near the floor. Once the invisible beam is broken, the door reverses automatically. If your opener lacks a similar safety reversing feature, it’s time to get a new opener.


Lets see which EW can find the error first.

Hint, its not a typo or wrong date, its wrong information in the above paragraph.

OK, no one could come up with the answer to this and I hate to see Jerry or other "EW's" get embarrassed someday. I also have requested DASMA to look at this thread so they can get their act together.


The above DASMA quote needs to inform the public that the lack of photosensors (or similar as is their words) is NOT always a problem.
The wayne dalton i-drive openers DO NOT need sensors when used with the series 9000 pinch-resistant doors. (or any pinch resistant door if more are available)

Don't confuse these "pinch resistant" doors with "entrapment resistant", pinch resistant is only referring to fingers in the door seams.

This was posted on another message board over a year ago. I thought you guy's were up to date. If you only read inspection news, you are missing a whole lot! This board is good but very slow moving and limited in content.

For Jerry and his followers that may be concerned with "meeting DASMA's standards":


Inspecting a garage door to DASMA's latest standards AND adding on the very important force setting test STILL meets DASMA's standards.


You have only added on another check to the abbreviated one.

Now that you know why a reversal check and a force setting check are not the same, you will be negligent if you do not perform the force setting check or inform your client that you did not do it and the reason for not doing it.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

DASMA has an error on their site on this page:

DASMA Door and Access Systems Manufacturers Association

Safety Reverse. Since 1993, all openers manufactured for the U.S. must include a second safety reversing feature such as photoelectric eyes. These are installed near the floor. Once the invisible beam is broken, the door reverses automatically. If your opener lacks a similar safety reversing feature, it’s time to get a new opener.

its wrong information in the above paragraph.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

OK, no one could come up with the answer to this


The above DASMA quote needs to inform the public that the lack of photosensors (or similar as is their words) is NOT always a problem.
The wayne dalton i-drive openers DO NOT need sensors when used with the series 9000 pinch-resistant doors. (or any pinch resistant door if more are available)

.

.
Bruce,

There is NO Answer !

I appreciate your passion on this subject.

That said You NEED to READ what is said ( Lacks a Similar Safety Device )
again read what is said.

I try and learn something New Every day. If I assume my position is right just because I think it ( without any corroborating references ) I'm not going to achieve my Goal of learning something New.

BTW: when those RED Lines appear B4 you post ( right click & pick any alternative spelling choice.)

When (and still on a certain page) DASMA had the correct (and complete) garage door opener testing procedure posted on the internet many people used it in their documents.


Here is one:

Automatic Garage Door Opener and Garage Door Safety and Maintenance Guide


The correct procedures are all over the place out there and then there is the new abbreviated procedure that is out there only to prevent injury to unqualified persons and to prevent call backs for garage door installers (poor guy's).

An inspector pushing for the abbreviated procedure is a problem to this industry and to the safety of homeowners and their kids and property.


Most of these installers are just kids that don't know much about the system.

I do a huge amount of new construction inspections and find very few doors and openers installed correctly.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

An inspector pushing for the abbreviated procedure is a problem to this industry and to the safety of homeowners and their kids and property.

.

.
Bruce,

You have no idea ( unless someone has stated ) how an Inspector checks a garage Door.

An Inspector who refuses to Read & Try and understand what is written ( refuses to answer anything is A Problem .)

And yes I realize you Always Get the Last Word.

Billy,

Did I forget to answer a question?


Also, don't believe everything you read, try and understand the "why" and "how" of issues, not just what some edited document states.



What I am stating here about the new DASMA procedure is very correct.

It does not provide for a properly inspected door, period.

Please don't ask me why, I think I have it covered very well in this thread.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

Billy,

Did I forget to answer a question?

.
Several.

Sorry, but I do tend to ignore some questions designed to twist the subject matter into something else.


I also ignore questions that are incomprehensible and based on incorrect opinions.


This subject is so simple its scary that so many are lost in it.


Reread my posts and you should catch on.

First, forget the 2x4 thing, its not a disputed test just not the ONLY ONE that SHOULD BE DONE!

Concentrate on trying to understand why DASMA, and some other sources want to prevent us from doing a force setting check.

Hint, there are a few reasons.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

Billy,

(1) Did I forget to answer a question?


(2) Also, don't believe everything you read, try and understand the "why" and "how" of issues, not just what some edited document states.

.
Bold is mine.

1. Several

2. Bruce I have an Engineering Background as well ( 30 + ) done work for / worked for many Fortune 100 Companies.

Do not believe everything I read.

But I am Baffled by a Garage Door !

Thank You for clearing this up for each & All.

Your welcome.

LMAO!


Here are more links that have the force setting check in the procedure:

National Garage Door Co.


CodeDodger Fact Sheet

Garage Door Openers

I just write something up in the report stating that the old style pressure reverse door openers are only there to prevent entrapment, and not to prevent crushing injuries. I recommend they upgrade to a new/ safe door opener.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

By the way, did you not read any of the manuf. instructions?
They tell you how to check the FORCE SETTINGS (on some anyway)


Why are you considering DASMA as being the legitimate source?
They had the correct procedure once and have removed it.
It being subjective was not a legitimate reason to remove the important FORCE SETTING checks!

You are now back pedalling Jerry.

Not backpedaling, just coasting, waiting for you to catch up.

Sometimes I am just too dense, but you can explain it to me: How can you "test" for something which is arbitrary and changes from "test" (you testing it) to "test" (you testing it) and from "tester" (you) to "tester" (Ted)?

In order to "test" something, you must have something (some standard or goal) to meet.

I guess I am just to dense for your arbitrary reasoning, having been in quality control, test, and R&D.

The first requirement for a proper "test" is to establish something to "test for". And "reasonable" does not cut it.

Ah ha!

We have found the problem.

Jerry, while you have been coasting along thinking that you are a scientist and everyone else is stupid, the world has passed you by.

Common sense and testing techniques go a long ways with garage doors.

As I said before, it may take some inspectors a year to get the feel of this very important test (force setting).

Once you get to the point of being able to do this arbitrary test you will be on board with being able to find many doors that are adjusted way too high and without damaging any in the process. (The first step is a careful examination of the door hardware to prevent testing damage)

It takes concentration, self awareness of your strength applied and most of all common sense and experience. I do not recommend anyone that disagrees with me to ever inspect a garage door. You do not have the common sense to do it and you or someone else could get hurt. Please refer it to someone else. Just don't refer it to a garage door tech, most of them don't know how to do it right either or at least their work product indicates that!


Since NC asks or requires this (its required unless you state that you did not do it and the reason for not doing it), all good inspectors concerned with their client and providing a quality service have trained themselves how to recognize a reasonable force.


It does not have to exact, if you had any experience with it you would know the difference in the feel of "about 10-15 pounds" as compared to "hey this door is not stopping".

Since I have had the chance to feel the force on many force setting certified openers (i-drive type) I do know how to issue my opinion very well.


In case you forgot Jerry, or never knew, we as home inspectors are hired, trusted, expected and allowed to issue our opinion.


Oh, before I forget, the argument about the force being different at other places along the track? Thats a minor issue if you know how to begin the inspection with a thorough checkout with the opener disconnected to look for problem areas along the travel. The mechanical advantage issue is not a major item since a good inspector will test the door at areas other than horizontal or near horizontal. And understanding the spring or torque tube function and knowing how to make sure it is close also. (thats another arbitrary test that you failed to knock down, is it because it is supported by DASMA, your favorite website?


Bottom line, it takes talent to inspect a garage door, no procedure is going to enable everyone to perform it correctly, so keep your hands off them doors Jerry until you stop coasting and accept the fact that there is way more to this than written codes, procedures and posted association guidlines.

I should be getting paid for this but at least I know there are many people that will read this and understand.

Remember folks, a 2x4 test DOES NOT tell you anything at all about the force setting on an opener unless parts start flying!

The hand/arm test tells you very quickly if a door is out of force adjustment.
Unless you are going to repair that door, the amount of error is not an issue at all. Refer the repair to a knowledgeble person.

FWIW I certainly appreciate EC Jerry's basis of argument, but resist buying the "2x4 smash test" to confirm door retraction and would definately adopt Scott Patterson's protocol in reporting overhead garage doors.
I'm done here.

gees

I have been so nice staying out of this controversy but then my name got thrown back into it.


My response is one that has not changed. I test the photos. I test the reverse with the stupid 2x4 (doesn't matter) that says absolutely nothing except the door may or may not reverse.

I test with my hand, probably lower than a baby sitting on his but with my hand, with light pressure. If the door does not immediately (forget the 2 seconds) I inform my clients. I also inform my clients that these are just preliminary test and nothing definitive and they should get their garage door checked by a garage door company (or some one from the brainiac institute on the east coast of Florida) immediately and periodically and it *is* recommended once a month (stupid look from clients saying oh yeah I will pay to have some one come out once a month)

Better to test with light pressure (don't say a word Jerry Peck) and see if it at least reverses with that light pressure, than to not check at all.

Darn. I might as well add this.

Gee folks I will not test with any pressure at all because I am afraid of liability. So, while you are moving in and the photos stop working and you wittle kid trips and falls under the door just as it is closing, you will have absolutely know idea if the pressure reverse mechanism works what so ever until the door reverses or CRUSHES YOUR FREEKING LITTLE KIDS HEAD.

Light pressure folks, light pressure folks, light pressure folks. And tell them it is not definitive and should get the door checked by a garage door company. You could (most likely not) possibly save a life.

You know what ,you highly technical folks. It may just save a life. If it does not reverse at all then you write it up as in need of repair and your client *might* just get it paid for by the seller and have everything just hunky doory (get it) before they move in.

No matter what, you are writing it up anyway for them to follow up with a garage door company. BECAUSE YOUR TESTS ARE NOT DEFINITIVE. IS THAT SO DIFFICULT TO UNDERSTAND. YOU COVER YOUR PRECIOUS BACK SIDE. YOU COVER YOUR CLIENTS BACK SIDE. YOU *MIGHT* JUST SAVE A LIFE.

NOW WHICH PART DO SOME OF YOU NOT UNDERSTAND.

I tell everyone of my clients of the tremendous importance of GFCI receptacles. I tell them of a friends house that burnt down from the toaster shorting. If they had GFCI it would have kept their house from burning down. Simple short (just like you getting shocked) button pops out. House does not burn down. Is it an absolute, no. Does my testing with a stupid little gfci tester give it an absolute, no. BUT BY TESTING, TALKING, WRITING, EXPLAINING, YOU MIGHT JUST SAVE A LIFE. DOING ALL THAT WILL MAKE IT STICK WITH THEM MUCH BETTER THAN JUST SAYING "I DO NOT TEST BECAUSE SOME STUPID COMPANY (DOES IT SAY ANYWHERE YOU EVEN HAVE TO LISTEN TO THEM) DIDN'T TELL ME TO AND I CAN NOT DEFINE ADEQUATE PRESSURE.

Some times this highly technical, well, stuff, goes just a little to far away from common sense and possibly can do more harm than good.

OK, I'm all done now.

Going back to my late afternoon Knapp now.

Wondering if I should even enter the discussion ...(oh what the heck!), I built an "auto-reverse tester" complete with a 1.5" load sensor and digital gauge, 110volt AND 12 volt. Thought I had the cats meow on that one, tested many doors over #350 when finally reversing 1.5" from the ground. Then (I think it was Jerry) someone on here reminded me that there is no recognized standard as to how much force can be applied before a door must auto-reverse and until that day comes I was opening myself up to legal problems. I do think the 2 x 4 is a partial test because it leaves out the force applied, but how do you test to the manufactures specs and still protect the consumer from over-applied forces? Here-in lies the dilema...

I was going to build one too but don't want to haul it around, especially since I know how to do a very good test without it.

The liability is nothing to worry about when you do your best, the liability is when you fail to inform your clients of the property conditions using normal inspection skills. We have no SOP that says we have to ensure it meets the manufacturers specs. Mine says I have to make sure it stops when meeting a reasonable force. The definition of reasonable is all up to the inspector in NC.


Many of the openers have force adjustments that can be reached easily while standing on the ground, so we can not be held liable for whatever adjustments someone makes after we leave the property.


Here's a tip, on every single opener that I have found operating in a reasonable manner, the ones that had the force adjustment (1 turn pot)visible were setting between the 4 o'clock and 6 o'clock position or in terms of percentage of full potentiometer travel, around 35 to 50 percent of maximum.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

The liability is nothing to worry about when you do your best, the liability is when you fail to inform your clients of the property conditions using normal inspection skills.

.
Tell me Bruce how do you report Mold ?

I'm not a mold inspector but will report anything that I see while on the property that appears to be a mold like substance to my client and recommend appropriate action as necessary.


Billy, why do feel it is necessary to change the subject?


Mold issues are not considered anywhere near the same as opener issues, but you know that right? Hint, it takes a lab to make conclusive decisions about mold but door opener issues only requires a good inspector with the right knowledge and desire to provide all of the safety checks readily available without the use of special tools.

Billy, Why don't you have a website with sample reports?
Work for a lot of realtors huh?

Originally Posted by Bruce King

I'm not a mold inspector but will report anything that I see while on the property that appears to be a mold like substance to my client and recommend appropriate action as necessary.


Billy, why do feel it is necessary to change the subject?


Mold issues are not considered anywhere near the same as opener issues, but you know that right? Hint, it takes a lab to make conclusive decisions about mold but door opener issues only requires a good inspector with the right knowledge and desire to provide all of the safety checks readily available without the use of special tools.

Billy, Why don't you have a website with sample reports?
Work for a lot of realtors huh?

Bruce

Now I am going to make my point about sample inspection reports.

I do not supply any one for any reason a sample report. There is no need.

Maybe one reason is because all inspection report formatting is the same in Texas. Maybe a slightly different look but the same.

No 2 homes are the same and no 2 homes are going to be written the same. One inspection report has absolutely nothing to do with the home you are about to inspect.

If some one wants a sample I give them the TREC website. They may even say (practically never) "No but I want to see what you write" Write about what? "Well what would you say about the shingles?" It depends if the shingles and flashing may have a concern. "What do you say about foundations?" Well that depends if there is any concerns with your foundation

Really. What is a sample report for?

Ted,

Most of my clients have hired other inspectors in the past and ended up unhappy with the inspection and report.

They like to know that some details will be provided instead of referring everything to someone else.

Some clients actually have the expertise to make many repairs themselves and are happy to have a list of what is really wrong, not that its just "wrong".


Its the next wave of reporting, I have always done it and don't have to rely on agents at all. I have two agents that send their friends and family to me but the others know where to find an average inspection and average report that helps with the commission checks and reduces workload negotiating and managing repairs.

Clients are getting way smarter these days, especially in this area.

Does texas not allow any custom narratives in the report or what?

Originally Posted by Bruce King

Billy, why do feel it is necessary to change the subject?

Billy, Why don't you have a website with sample reports?
Work for a lot of realtors huh?

.
I'm just curious how " Captain Courageous " would handle this issue.

If you search my area the web is saturated with HI's .

You've seen the type Ain't I the One !!! I Inspect By Manufacturers Installation Instructions, (when they really don't) Bla, Bla.Bla.

BTW That's a Nice Link straight to a Realtor on your site. ( How can you offer to get someone a termite inspection from some other company for $55.00?)

Originally Posted by Billy Stephens

.

I'm just curious how " Captain Courageous " would handle this issue.


Thanks! But really, its just me doing my job as required here.



If you search my area the web is saturated with HI's .

So you don't think you can compete?



You've seen the type Ain't I the One !!! I Inspect By Manufacturers Installation Instructions, (when they really don't) Bla, Bla.Bla.

Must be reading something that is not there in that context at all if you are referring to my site.



BTW That's a Nice Link straight to a Realtor on your site.

Thanks, she approched me for a link exchange and since I am ranked top or near top for the best keywords and she has a nice site I went ahead and did it. She has a very informative site for house hunters. My clients don't always buy the homes that I inspect for them and some even end up looking for another agent.



( How can you offer to get someone a termite inspection from some other company for $55.00?)

I don't markup these, I just don't need the money or the liability, just simply offering my clients a deal. But thanks for reminding me to change that to the new price of $65.

Do I owe you anything for your help? LMAO


Billy, seriously, save me some time here, where on here have you ever offered any real good technical advice to other inspectors?

Point me to the thread(s) please, I am very very curious.

Also, please post your methods of inspecting and reporting on garage doors and mold and the reasons for doing what you do.

Thanks

(see comments added above to each section)

Originally Posted by Bruce King

(see comments added above to each section)

.
Bruce,

As I tend to Ignore incorrect opinions ( Yes I and only I ) determine who's opinion is correct.

* Hint Go Over your Previous Posts.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

Ted,

Most of my clients have hired other inspectors in the past and ended up unhappy with the inspection and report.

They like to know that some details will be provided instead of referring everything to someone else.

Some clients actually have the expertise to make many repairs themselves and are happy to have a list of what is really wrong, not that its just "wrong".


Its the next wave of reporting, I have always done it and don't have to rely on agents at all. I have two agents that send their friends and family to me but the others know where to find an average inspection and average report that helps with the commission checks and reduces workload negotiating and managing repairs.

Clients are getting way smarter these days, especially in this area.

Does texas not allow any custom narratives in the report or what?

Every single one of my reports is a "custom narrative" Every inspection is different from the last. Every write up on the particular concern for that home is "custom narrative" Texas is a narrative report. It is the requirement. We must "write" what we see.

I have maybe a handful of agents that refer me. I write in my report what is found at the time of the inspection. If it is found to be in need of repair I write it so and quite obviously if I do so I must be justifying it with explaining the concern.

Forgive me for sounding stupid but this is a quote from you

"really wrong, not that its just "wrong".

Sorry does "wrong" just mean kind of wrong and really wrong means really, really wrong. Isn't wrong, "wrong"

Oh, I get it. They see how severally "really wrong" something is and how it was written on a sample report and that means they are going to have the exact same write up on their report with their concern that may somewhat be like theirs. Don't think so.

As far as referring it to the appropriate trade when concerns are found, well, I think that is kind of what we are suppose to do. Are wee going to fix it. Are you making a GFCI replacement sound simple and some house wife is going to go out and by a new one and install it herself because you gave detailed instructions to her. Oops, sorry I made it sound so simple to repair and your wife tried it on her own and electrocuted herself !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Refer it to the appropriate trade. What they do with after the fact is there choice. One in a dozen of my clients might be qualified for some repairs. Most are not.

Are you going far beyond your home inspector status and actually telling your clients exactly what they have to do to repair something. Are you acting as a qualified professional in all particular trades. Are you guaranteeing them that the prescribed fix you are telling them is exactly what will cure all. Do you spend three days dissecting every component in every home. Are you giving the Jerry P 100 page report.

I really don't think you are doing what that last paragraph says.

Anyways. Every home is different. Every report is different. Every write up is different.

We've dispensed with the annual :

1. Exercise the T & P valve versus don't touch that there thang....

2. follow / don't follow DASMA procedure versus I don't touch them there garage door thingies...

Is is time for the annual walk the roof versus "Don't Go There" debate yet?

Ted,

You misunderstood and ALSO took a partial quote from my post.

(someone else on here likes to do that too to twist things around, LMAO)
I'm sure you had no ill conceived ideas and just made an honest mistake and oversight : )


Here is the part of the quote you missed out on:
"have a list of what is really wrong, not that its just "wrong"."


What this means is that there are inspectors who report this:
House has several GFCI issues and missing grounds.

Where I would state the location of each and every item and report what symptoms the GFCI is exhibiting.

Several inspectors say they stop at 3-4 issues per system and just refer the whole system to the contractor.

The problem therein is where the contractor only gets the list of the 3-4 items and did not know he was supposed to inspect the whole system.


I do have an agreement for homes in very poor condition where I do not write a book on the house and report as per system.

Originally Posted by Bob White

We've dispensed with the annual :

1. Exercise the T & P valve versus don't touch that there thang....

2. follow / don't follow DASMA procedure versus I don't touch them there garage door thingies...

Is is time for the annual walk the roof versus "Don't Go There" debate yet?

Bob,

Do you inspect the opener force setting performance (arm/hand)?

Do you inspect the basic reversal feature (2x4)?

Did you learn from this thread that DASMA has two different procedures posted and that the opener manufacturers have instructions to test the force reversal setting by arm/hand?

thanks for adding your opinions, everyone has something to offer I'm sure..

I posted way back in #58 and #64 and have been monitoring this thread since then. It is great to see such passionate arguments in favor of protecting folks from garage doors, but some people are painting with very broad brushes, and it feels like some of that paint is splashing my way. This is a long post. I had some extra time today and this is an important subject, so I thought I'd weigh in on it again.

I never told anyone not to do the "force setting test" and I didn't express an opinion on the validity of the test (yet, but will later in this post). I pointed out that some folks were linking to outdated info on the DASMA site (from a pamphlet published in 1996), and since no one had yet posted it, I linked to TDS 167 which contains step-by-step inspection procedures written by DASMA for home inspectors and consumers. I also called attention to a DVD that DASMA and IDA put out less than a year ago, which also has garage door and operator inspection procedures that the manufacturers recommend for HIs. I pointed out that DASMA changed TDS 167 in 2006, specifically to remove the "force setting test", and I linked to their web page that announced the change and the reasoning behind it.

Finally, I also expressed two opinions in post #58.

The first one was that if an inspector followed TDS 167, including the instructions to abort the inspection and have the door serviced, then the risk of someone being injured or you causing property damage during your inspection of the door, was minimized.

The second opinion was that since the associations that represent the various manufacturers of doors and operators are publishing inspection procedures and releasing DVDs that are directed specifically to home inspectors, home inspectors who choose to not follow, or who choose to deviate from those procedures, assume more liability than an inspector who follows those procedures.

If you don't follow the published procedures and something goes wrong either during your inspection of the door or after your inspection of the door, and someone gets hurt or property is damaged, the impact on your wallet will be greater than it would have been if you had followed the published procedures -- even if in the end you prevail and convince the side accusing you that your test was "the correct one" or better than the industry standard. Why? Because TDS 167 will be pointed to, and you'll need to explain why you didn't follow it, and that explaining will cost you time and money. And there's always the chance that the other side will not buy your explanation or that your insurance company will bail on you because you didn't follow standard procedures. It could be the dividing line between an "accident" and "negligence". Each of us need to make a business decision about whether or not we want to assume that additional liability in order to provide that additional level of service to our client. Each of us will vary in our comfort level with taking on that additional risk.

I'm shifting gears now to discuss some of the specific operating tests of the doors and operators. There are a series of tests you need to run. No single test tells you everything you need to know, and each test looks at different pieces of a "system".

Before you even move the door you should be looking at the door hardware in order to determine if it is safe for you to move it. Before you operate the opener, you should look at how it is attached to the door to see if it will damage the door if the door hangs up with the operator running.

The first operating test that you run is done after you've inspected the door hardware and it is done with the operator disconnected from the door -- the balance test. It is not an ideal "test" because it has subjective criteria such as "without straining yourself", "hard to lift", "move freely", and "without difficulty". Still, when taken in context in their entirety, those terms provide a pretty good description that any lay-person can follow in order to form an opinion about whether or not the door needs to be serviced. If the door is not properly balanced, it is dangerous to operate and the force setting on the opener cannot be properly adjusted.

If the door is not properly balanced, the thing to do is abort your inspection and recommend servicing, and have the service tech adjust the opener and do the safety inspection on it as part of the service call. I explain to the client how important the safety checks on the opener are, and that I cannot do them if the door is not balanced properly because it is unsafe to operate the door and the results of the safety checks are not reliable.

The last operating test (if you are following TDS 167) is the "contact reversal test", a/k/a the 2x4 test. This is to test a safety feature that is required of all openers manufactured in the US since 1992 (possibly earlier for this feature, but I couldn't verify it -- I think it was a voluntary standard between 1982 and 1992). This safety feature is not designed or intended to prevent injury; it is intended to prevent entrapment under the door. Entrapment can, and has, caused death when minor injuries were sustained from contact with the door.

UL 325 is the standard the manufacturers of openers need to meet. In UL 325, the opener's force setting is cranked up to the maximum, the door is required to reverse when it strikes a solid object 1 inch thick at the bottom of the door's path of travel, and it has to do it through at least 50 close-open cycles in order for it to "pass". That test has been modified for field inspection of installed openers (per TDS 167) by using a 2x4, leaving the force setting as is, and running the test one time. The only criteria for pass/fail of the "contact reversal test" is that the door actually reverses when it makes contact with the block -- it doesn't matter (for the test) how hard or how soft it strikes it.

Now some of you guys are going to be very passionate about the contact reversal test not being good enough -- and guess what -- you are right! Congress passed a law in 1990 and the CPSC issued regulations (16 CFR 1211) that require every opener manufactured since 1992 to also have a secondary entrapment protection method. It could be photo eyes, an edge sensor, a wall switch that you need to hold down while the door operates, or a way to reliably control the force generated by the motor. This secondary entrapment protection method is also intended to reduce the occurrence and severity of injuries that might occur from contact with the moving door. TDS 167 has a standard procedure for testing this safety requirement if the opener has electric eyes, which is the most common method employed. If the opener uses one of the other methods, you would need to follow the instructions provided by that particular opener's manufacturer in order to properly test.

As mentioned previously, DASMA removed the "force setting test" from TDS 167 in 2006. The reasons they gave for doing so were "(1) The test is not part of UL 325. (2) Some felt that the test was too subjective. (3) We’ve heard isolated reports that the test has resulted in injuries, such as back strains." I agree with all of those reasons and I'll give another one: sometimes it causes the door to fall off the track.

Mr. King claims he knows the real reason -- to reduce callbacks. I might be willing to consider that if he provided some evidence to support it, but till then I think that's hogwash and uses flawed logic. The reason why is because the guys that install openers also service them, and there are many more operators in service that are outside the callback period than within it. So the claim that DASMA removed the test because HIs would call for service on too many doors doesn't make sense to me, because the revenue from increased service calls should exceed the expenses of callbacks. If there is a self-serving economic reason behind their actions, I'd think they would be in favor of HIs making more calls for service, not less.

Also, if this test was "correct" and absolutely necessary in order to ensure an acceptable level of safety for the operator, then I'd expect to see either one of two things happen: the test would be required in UL 325, or DASMA would be up to their necks in lawsuits by now for having removed it.

The argument that you need to run the force setting test because it is found in the manuals for some openers, is only valid for that particular make & model of opener, and only if it is recommended as a periodic operating check instead of just during initial installation.

Having said all of that, even though it is not a precise test and has subjective criteria, I think the "force setting test" can provide some useful information about the safety of the door and the opener that can be conveyed to the client in a way the client can understand, which, bottom line, is what we are trying to do. It might be cause enough to recommend a service call, even if the door passed all the other items in TDS 167. It provides some insight into the question "what could happen if the photo eyes failed or were bypassed?"

If I did the force setting test, I would check the force setting in addition to, and after, completing the procedure in TDS 167, and only after making sure nobody was under the door for its full range of travel or that the door would be the only thing damaged if it jumped off the track. I'm not recommending other inspectors do this test; each of us needs to assess our own competency and weigh the risks and benefits for ourselves.

One more point for those in the "I've got to run the force setting test in order to protect my client because the other tests don't measure the thing that can actually hurt someone" camp, to think about. Do you test home smoke alarms by pushing the little button and listening for a sound? When you do that you are only verifying that the alarm has power and the circuitry will make the alarm sound. It doesn't test the smoke and fire sensors under the conditions they will be needed, so you can't be sure the alarm will actually ring in the event of a fire.

I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do. I hope I've given some good solid information and opinions on the subject so folks can make up their own minds.

Brandon,

Thanks, thats a good summary of this long thread.

My area has a huge amount of new homes with openers under warranty so my post about the callback issue is probably valid around here but maybe not everywhere.


Also, I have been "interviewing opener techs" for quite some time now.
Not very often, but I make a point to strike up a conversation with them.
And, you guessed it, I ask them about the force settings.
EVERY single one of them shrugs it off and says something to this effect:
" We set them a little high to make sure the doors do not bind up"


You mentioned that DASMA would have been sued a lot if the force setting issue was real. Nope, very few bad injuries occur as compared to the vast number of openers out there. Why? Credit the photosensors and good parents.


Finally but not least, you did not address my situation:
I am REQUIRED to test the force setting in NC.
SC could say its required if they want because they require me to check to see if the opener functions. The force setting IS PART of the function as any competent court or attorney could or would argue.

I know that I can opt out of the force setting test based on what could happen and I have plenty of times when the door had other issues.

Bruce,

Also, I have been "interviewing opener techs" for quite some time now.
Not very often, but I make a point to strike up a conversation with them.
And, you guessed it, I ask them about the force settings.
EVERY single one of them shrugs it off and says something to this effect:
" We set them a little high to make sure the doors do not bind up"

I don't doubt that in the least, and that's been my experience as well.

You mentioned that DASMA would have been sued a lot if the force setting issue was real. Nope, very few bad injuries occur as compared to the vast number of openers out there. Why? Credit the photosensors and good parents.

I agree there too, on the few bad injuries and the reasons why. To me, this means that "force setting test" is less critical, as chasing after a proper force setting may provide little added benefit and verifying that the secondary entrapment protection system is working properly may be good enough. But I wouldn't want to be the one that had to explain that "good enough" to the parent who's kid was injured if the eyes did fail.

I am REQUIRED to test the force setting in NC.

... ya gotta do what your state says ya gotta do.

Brandon

Originally Posted by Bruce King

Brandon,

Thanks, thats a good summary of this long thread.

My area has a huge amount of new homes with openers under warranty so my post about the callback issue is probably valid

EVERY single one of them shrugs it off and says something to this effect:
" We set them a little high to make sure the doors do not bind up"


You mentioned that DASMA would have been sued a lot if the force setting issue was real. Nope,

Finally but not least, you did not address my situation:
.

Brandon,

Thank you for your time to input the facts. (even if some only view it as a Summary with only a few mistakes.)

The added advise of I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do. I hope I have given some good solid information and opinions on the subject so folks can make up their own minds. Is appreciated but will also be lost on some.

If the photoeyes fail, the door can only be operated by holding in on the wall switch.


The only way to bypass these photoeyes is to mount them a certain distance apart at another location (ie. the ceiling). No jumpers or disconnecting will work. The manuf. has covered that very well within the design.


On a modern (>1993) properly operating door with the LIMITS SET CORRECTLY, the chance of finding an inoperative entrapment feature is extremely low. Note: parts flying off DO NOT indicate that the door had an inoperative entrapment feature, it simply means the door had hardware problems and could not withstand the test.


The chance of finding a door with very high force settings is about 6 out of 10! (this is my experience and have no reason to believe it would be any different anywhere else)


The force setting check and subsequent repair by a tech is more likely to save future property damage than a life since the photoeyes are a very good deterrent from human stupidity and wandering pets.

Originally Posted by Bruce King

The chance of finding a door with very high force settings is about 6 out of 10! (this is my experience and have no reason to believe it would be any different anywhere else)

.
How High is Very High ?

*how dense is very dense?

* how arrogant is very arrogant ?

How funny is very funny?
How absurb is.....

Please troll elsewhere Billy.


By the way, lets see your report showing a garage door inspection, disclaimers or whatever you have.

2 months ago my left-side neighbor closed his garage door with the remote button and inadvertantly killed my right-side neighbor's cat. Came right down on the sorry thing's neck. Ouch. (In case any of you were thinking about using the cat test, the door didn't go back up)

Why didn't the cat get out of the way? Who cares (I mean who knows)? But sufficed to say, a cat's neck does not equal the proper amount of resistance to send a door up.

Just thought I'd share that.

PS I hated seeing my neighbor's 5 y.o. daughter's face when told that kitty has passed.