Thread: Jungle Gym?

This is in the latest issue of Fine Homebuilding. This type of railing is becoming common around here, yet it seems to violate the codes. Not only could someone climb on the wire '"rails", but it seems like the wire strands could be flexed out to more than 4" spacing, allowing a child's head to become lodged in between. Do you guys call this out?



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• Jungle in the Sky

That's ridiculous. Those were obviously made for people who are more concerned with their views than safety. I'd flag that every time.

I'm seeing this type more often as well.

I call them out as a potential safety hazard especially for small children.

I also explain why they may be hazardous.

The client can decide what's important to him/her.

I write them up and just let the purchaser know it is a safety concern for children.

There is no code violation with the IRC.......

Hello All,

I'm pretty sure the 2000 IRC was the last time the horizontal and "ladder effect" baluster issue was in the code.

Here are two articles directly related to this matter you may find interesting.

http://www.deckmagazine.com/pdf/2007/0707/0707edit.pdf

http://www.deckmagazine.com/pdf/2007/0707/0707lett.pdf

Best wishes,

Corey

Ditto Brandon Whitmore's comment.

From the letter defending using ladders for railings:

"By their very nature, cable rails do not invite

climbing because the thin cable is hard to grasp
and stand on, and the material is flexible."

Okay, *how* "flexible" are they? Enough to exceed the spacing requirement? If not, then they should not be described as being "flexible", but as being "taunt, making the cables semi-rigid".

"Flexibility" is not wanted, desired, or even allowed there.

"NOMMA maintains that the best way to maximize
guard safety is to follow the current ICC
codes, especially in regard to height, strength,
and spacing between infill elements,"

"maximize guard safety" by following a "minimum code", as all codes are?

"and to never
allow unattended children on balconies, porches,

or stairs, regardless of the design."

True, and the safety way to address small children around pools is " to never allow unattended children" around pools, however, it is also recognized that that alone is insufficient, leading to all kinds of child-resistant barriers to protect small children from themselves.

The guard rail in-fill panel *is required* to meet this:

From the 2006 IRC.
- TABLE R301.5
- - MINIMUM UNIFORMLY DISTRIBUTED LIVE LOADS

- - - in pounds per square foot)
- - - - Guardrails in–fill components
- - - - - - f. Guard in-fill components (all those except the handrail), balusters and panel fillers shall be designed to withstand a horizontally applied normal load of 50 pounds on an area equal to 1 square foot. This load need not be assumed to act concurrently with any other live load requirement.

That means that one could use a test device consisting of a 1 square foot backing plate, which covers 1 square foot of the guard infill panel, attach a 4" sphere anywhere in that backing plate area (center the sphere in the backing plate will make the device easier to handle), place the sphere between the cable rails, leaving the cable rails resting against the sides of the sphere, then apply a load of 50 pounds horizontally to that 1 square area plate, pressing it against that same 1 square foot area of the guard rail (the designers choice is to either make the guard rail solid or open, the 1 square foot area is the same for either), and, if the cable rails are "flexible" enough to allow the 4" sphere to slip through the guard rail, the guardrail fails.

Let's do a little math:

Guardrail section is 1 square foot.

Cables are spaced 4" apart center-to-center.

Cables are 3/8" (just pulling a number out of the air).

That means we have:

- | cable -----------------
4"| 3-5/8" air space
- | cable -----------------
4" | 3-5/8" air space
- | cable -----------------
4" | 3-5/8" air space
- | cable -----------------

(that's 1 foot high by 1 foot wide)

The cable "fill", from top to bottom
3/16" (half the top cable)
3/8"
3/8"
3/16" (half the bottom cable)
9/8" or 1-1/8" "of cable height dimension" in that 1 linear foot of guardrail

1-1/8" H x 12" L = 13-1/2 square inches of cable area in that 1 square foot guardrail area.

13.5 square inches / 144 square inches = 9.375% of the area is *cable* and 90.625% of the area is *air*.

Thus, the sphere is really pressing equally against 9.375% *cable* and 90.625% *air*.

Being as *air* as little to no measurable resistance strength to the applied load in this test, *the cable* must be able to withstand *ALL* the applied load in that 1 square foot area being tested.

Why one sphere?

The designers will try to contend that one sphere is creating "point loading" and not a "uniformly distributed load", however, as stated above, it was *their choice* to make the rail either: 1) solid or 2) mostly air, and, if they chose to make the railing of "mostly air", they lose the ability to "discount that area consisting of air".

Again, why one sphere?

Because *ONE* 4" sphere represents the object trying to be rejected and not allowed to pass through ... a small child's head.

Brandon Chew, looking forward to your response.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

From the letter defending using ladders for railings:

Again, why one sphere?

Because *ONE* 4" sphere represents the object trying to be rejected and not allowed to pass through ... a small child's head..

WOW ! That sure is a lot of calculatin' I'm thinking if I put that much thought into every detail of our inspection process, my inspections would take 2 days. If the cables were installed vertically no problem but that looks like an accident waiting to happen and should be reported.

In Ontario


9.8.8.6. Design to Prevent Climbing
(1) Guards required by Article 9.8.8.1., except those in industrial occupancies and where it can be shown that the location
and size of openings do not represent a hazard, shall be designed so that no member, attachment or opening will facilitate
climbing.
(2) Guards shall be deemed to comply with Sentence (1) where any elements protruding from the vertical and located
within the area between 140 mm and 900 mm above the floor or walking surface protected by the guard,
(a) are located more than 450 mm horizontally and vertically from each other,
(b) provide not more than 15 mm horizontal offset,
(c) do not provide a toe-space more than 45 mm horizontally and 20 mm vertically, or
(d) present more than a 1-in-2 slope on the offset

Wire railings are fine. Flag them on my jobsite and don't come back.

What a difference between builders, designers and inspectors. My dad was an insurance guy and loved to worry about everything. Life is to be lived people. Get a life. Live and let live.

More... Kid sticks head thru wire cause they flex... kid pulls head out too.. cause they flex! Also.. kid that young with no parent around to yell to? Where are the worry wort parents that hire worry wort inspectors?

One thing all inspectors in my area miss... railings put up with sheetrock screws... that no way would hold with a 200 pound load applied to it. Now that is an issue to me as people do lean on railings lots and people today love to eat till they and their whole family weighs 200 pounds, 300 pounds, 400 pounds, 500 pounds, and up to 1000 pounds seems I saw on the news last week. Do any of our codes address the loads of having a family of 500 pound people holding a party for there 50 500 pound friends? No. If you all wanted to work toward solving problems.. tell me what we do about obesity and current codes? We could start rating chairs and floors and decks and stairs with weight limits and I think we should myself. I know someday I will see someone sit in a chair and then hit the floor.

OK... just having some fun with thoughts... and... again.. I do like wire railings, glass railings, vinyl railings, PT railings... and do concern myself with the 200 pound rating.

be nice... lets have fun.. as life is short! .. so what say you all?
aj

Originally Posted by adkjac

Wire railings are fine. Flag them on my jobsite and don't come back.

What a difference between builders, designers and inspectors. My dad was an insurance guy and loved to worry about everything. Life is to be lived people. Get a life. Live and let live.

More... Kid sticks head thru wire cause they flex... kid pulls head out too.. cause they flex! Also.. kid that young with no parent around to yell to? Where are the worry wort parents that hire worry wort inspectors?

One thing all inspectors in my area miss... railings put up with sheetrock screws... that no way would hold with a 200 pound load applied to it. Now that is an issue to me as people do lean on railings lots and people today love to eat till they and their whole family weighs 200 pounds, 300 pounds, 400 pounds, 500 pounds, and up to 1000 pounds seems I saw on the news last week. Do any of our codes address the loads of having a family of 500 pound people holding a party for there 50 500 pound friends? No. If you all wanted to work toward solving problems.. tell me what we do about obesity and current codes? We could start rating chairs and floors and decks and stairs with weight limits and I think we should myself. I know someday I will see someone sit in a chair and then hit the floor.

OK... just having some fun with thoughts... and... again.. I do like wire railings, glass railings, vinyl railings, PT railings... and do concern myself with the 200 pound rating.

be nice... lets have fun.. as life is short! .. so what say you all?
aj

Did you ever hear of lawyers?

My ex is an attorney... along with a good friend. It's the American idea of suing that sucks... Vengence... revenge... you hurt me instead of me hurt me...

We need laws.. lawyers... but.. ouch.. it hurts to play with them on either side of an issue... It's nice to share their income though!!!!

Originally Posted by adkjac

Wire railings are fine. Flag them on my jobsite and don't come back.

What a difference between builders, designers and inspectors. My dad was an insurance guy and loved to worry about everything. Life is to be lived people. Get a life. Live and let live.

"Live and let live."

PRECISELY what we are trying to do ... "let live".

More... Kid sticks head thru wire cause they flex... kid pulls head out too.. cause they flex! Also.. kid that young with no parent around to yell to? Where are the worry wort parents that hire worry wort inspectors?

With an attitude like that, I can only imagine *all the other things* which you let slide by too.

And what a shame. I would think you would like future generations around to purchase your stuff ... guess not.

In my opinion, if the railing is blocking the view (as in that case) put up a friggin' glazed railing, makes it solid, no one can fall through, and there is nothing, not even wires, there to block ones view.

Or, if you are worried about 'dew' or other condensation on the railing blocking your view, take the stupid railing down, walk out to the edge of the deck, then ... take another step ... your clients will like you better that way. Because you have proven the need for the railing.

Not letting a nice railing slide Jerry... I like safety that makes sense and I like artistic design. You sound like you have a bug up your butt and only look at codes... I like codes too Jerry but I have an independent ability to get myself through life and so do many of my customers. Yes codes protect the next owner of a custom home that may have dicey safety issues... Oh well... As the stock market is showing today with AIG... all risks can not be known... and some risk is what living entails and educated levels of higher risk may reap higher returns... may not too!

Jerry... I loop airplanes... you may be the type that watches a guy like me at an airshow... good for you.. I am happy to be the guy doing the loops. And as safe as I can... not just doing one for the hell of it with no education.

Be safe Jerry... I know you keep your customers safe... just realize that we all do no want to be perfectly safe... I would much rather die living life than of letting fear live me.

Lastly... I do not know of anyone getting hurt with wire rails... but I bet you have let many wood railings go that were poorly fastened with sheetrock screws. It's the norm everywhere I look and being that I have tested such, I know the holding power is no good. Go flag those from now on and do your clients some good. And test some yourself. Seems you are into such.

Peace Jerry... we are different. oh well.

Jerry... you seem to be a great inspector.. certainly have tons of quality info to share on the boards here.

Lunchbreak over... you all enjoy the thread... I think my piece has been said and bet you all can finish this one without me.

Peace

Originally Posted by adkjac

Not letting a nice railing slide Jerry... I like safety that makes sense and I like artistic design.

I also like artistic design.

When it comes to artistic design *IN A DWELLING* (especially, or any occupied building, but specifically in a dwelling), if there is a conflict between safety and design, the design needs to accommodate safety.

You sound like you have a bug up your butt and only look at codes...

Nope, but that *IS* where things start ... er ... *are required to start*, from there, artistic design and better takes over.

I like codes too Jerry but I have an independent ability to get myself through life and so do many of my customers.

I particularly like you choice of words ... "many" of my customers ... we, as inspectors, are looking out for "all of your customers.

There is, I am sure you will agree and appreciate, a difference between "many" and "all".

Yes codes protect the next owner of a custom home that may have dicey safety issues...

Right on target.

Oh well... As the stock market is showing today with AIG... all risks can not be known...

And code is not, cannot, protect against ... "all" risks ... code does, however, protect against known risks to minimum levels.

Be safe Jerry... I know you keep your customers safe... just realize that we all do no want to be perfectly safe...

Just realize that codes do not, and cannot, make you "perfectly safe", only "safe to a recognized minimum degree".

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

From the letter defending using ladders for railings:

"By their very nature, cable rails do not invite

climbing because the thin cable is hard to grasp
and stand on, and the material is flexible."

Okay, *how* "flexible" are they? Enough to exceed the spacing requirement? If not, then they should not be described as being "flexible", but as being "taunt, making the cables semi-rigid".

"Flexibility" is not wanted, desired, or even allowed there.

"NOMMA maintains that the best way to maximize
guard safety is to follow the current ICC
codes, especially in regard to height, strength,
and spacing between infill elements,"

"maximize guard safety" by following a "minimum code", as all codes are?

"and to never
allow unattended children on balconies, porches,

or stairs, regardless of the design."

True, and the safety way to address small children around pools is " to never allow unattended children" around pools, however, it is also recognized that that alone is insufficient, leading to all kinds of child-resistant barriers to protect small children from themselves.

The guard rail in-fill panel *is required* to meet this:

From the 2006 IRC.
- TABLE R301.5
- - MINIMUM UNIFORMLY DISTRIBUTED LIVE LOADS

- - - in pounds per square foot)
- - - - Guardrails in–fill components
- - - - - - f. Guard in-fill components (all those except the handrail), balusters and panel fillers shall be designed to withstand a horizontally applied normal load of 50 pounds on an area equal to 1 square foot. This load need not be assumed to act concurrently with any other live load requirement.

That means that one could use a test device consisting of a 1 square foot backing plate, which covers 1 square foot of the guard infill panel, attach a 4" sphere anywhere in that backing plate area (center the sphere in the backing plate will make the device easier to handle), place the sphere between the cable rails, leaving the cable rails resting against the sides of the sphere, then apply a load of 50 pounds horizontally to that 1 square area plate, pressing it against that same 1 square foot area of the guard rail (the designers choice is to either make the guard rail solid or open, the 1 square foot area is the same for either), and, if the cable rails are "flexible" enough to allow the 4" sphere to slip through the guard rail, the guardrail fails.

Let's do a little math:

Guardrail section is 1 square foot.

Cables are spaced 4" apart center-to-center.

Cables are 3/8" (just pulling a number out of the air).

That means we have:

- | cable -----------------
4"| 3-5/8" air space
- | cable -----------------
4" | 3-5/8" air space
- | cable -----------------
4" | 3-5/8" air space
- | cable -----------------

(that's 1 foot high by 1 foot wide)

The cable "fill", from top to bottom
3/16" (half the top cable)
3/8"
3/8"
3/16" (half the bottom cable)
9/8" or 1-1/8" "of cable height dimension" in that 1 linear foot of guardrail

1-1/8" H x 12" L = 13-1/2 square inches of cable area in that 1 square foot guardrail area.

13.5 square inches / 144 square inches = 9.375% of the area is *cable* and 90.625% of the area is *air*.

Thus, the sphere is really pressing equally against 9.375% *cable* and 90.625% *air*.

Being as *air* as little to no measurable resistance strength to the applied load in this test, *the cable* must be able to withstand *ALL* the applied load in that 1 square foot area being tested.

Why one sphere?

The designers will try to contend that one sphere is creating "point loading" and not a "uniformly distributed load", however, as stated above, it was *their choice* to make the rail either: 1) solid or 2) mostly air, and, if they chose to make the railing of "mostly air", they lose the ability to "discount that area consisting of air".

Again, why one sphere?

Because *ONE* 4" sphere represents the object trying to be rejected and not allowed to pass through ... a small child's head.

Brandon Chew, looking forward to your response.

No need for code, mathematics, or fancy testing devices when a little common sense is sufficient.

Show any responsible parent of young children the photo of that guard and then ask them two simple questions:

1) Would you leave your child unattended to play on that balcony? (yes I do mean unattended, and after the next question you'll know why ... ). Most will answer: "No Way! They could fall off."

2) Have you ever been watching your child, then turn your back for just one minute to do something, and when you turn around again, the child is gone? ....

Originally Posted by Brandon Chew

No need for code, mathematics, or fancy testing devices when a little common sense is sufficient.

Brandon,

Therein lies the rub.

As you can see from the above posts by some (unnamed by me) ... "common sense" is "uncommon", they would rather the little ones do loops on their way down (I guess).

Code does not address "common sense", it can't, and never will. The only thing which can enforce "common sense" is a willing buyer becoming an willing non-buyer when the builder takes that stance.

If the buyer is the one who insisted on that railing design, then there is no one with common sense to protect their children.

Originally Posted by adkjac

Wire railings are fine. Flag them on my jobsite and don't come back.

.
OK ( I'll see you at The Wrongful Death Suit.)
.
You'll know who I am ( on the Witness Stand ) pointing in your direction.
.

Boys.... you sure are extremists!

The railing has the 4" spacing covered. There are railings all over my area that are just the two rails with no wires... and I haven't seen the paper full of articles from injuries and deaths. Haven't seen one article and haven't seen one railing upgraded. (I do not build such and do not advocate for them)

I like the railing and am sure other responsible people do too. You inspector types that do not design specialty homes along a lake just aren't in a place where you can understand maybe? Families that I build for want the kids safe and want views. They most likely are able to manage more risks than you are? Their kids learn how to swim young and learn how to boat young, and learn how to not fall not climb up a railing and jump to the death young, and not put there hand on a hot burner, and to not drive the car without permission and how to tie there shoes...etc.

sillyness.

Yaa all have a job to do... and I guess that is to lean toward extreme safety verses personal responsibility. Yes... youngsters can be responsible if allowed and educated and set up to be!

Feeding the flames here I know...

Can't wait to have my post parsed line by line....

Lawyers and inspectors and responsibility oh my...

Get err done Jerry!

Billy...

What kind of post is that? You won't be seeing me at some court in any near future. Get over yourself.

I didn't design that railing system. I didn't put it up. and no one has been hurt.

Do you live in cyber world?

Worky work time for me... enjoy a day of posting and I will come back to laugh with or at yaa all tonight...

peace..

I think we are all getting a bit too serious and high on our horses here...

I suggest we have a nice brew tonight and relax reponsibly and have a few laughs talking politics!

Originally Posted by adkjac

Billy...

What kind of post is that? You won't be seeing me at some court in any near future. Get over yourself.

.
I don't make the decisions for my clients on what is an acceptable risk ( verses aesthetic.)

Do You ?

Will their further Guests also feel " The View " would off set an injury to their child ?
.

Originally Posted by adkjac

You inspector types that do not design specialty homes along a lake just aren't in a place where you can understand maybe? Families that I build for want the kids safe and want views.

You want the view? I addressed that: "In my opinion, if the railing is blocking the view (as in that case) put up a friggin' glazed railing, makes it solid, no one can fall through, and there is nothing, not even wires, there to block ones view."

NO COMPROMISE IN SAFETY, and no compromise in view, in fact, the "view" would be better than looking at those silly railings.

I know, because there are many, many, many condos in South Florida with glazed railings, overlooking "the view" of the Atlantic Ocean, and no wires blocking it. Yet, no compromise in safety, the railing is "solid", no openings, yet you can actually "see through it".

What a novel concept! "View" and "safety" combined.

Their kids learn how to swim young and learn how to boat young, and learn how to not fall not climb up a railing and jump to the death young, and not put there hand on a hot burner, and to not drive the car without permission and how to tie there shoes...etc.[/quote]

And, when they do fall over the railing, they know how to fly too? I suppose they must, otherwise they would Splat! on the ground, or maybe be impaled on a tree?

Your slip ... er ... greed is showing.

Originally Posted by adkjac

You won't be seeing me at some court in any near future. Get over yourself.

I didn't design that railing system. I didn't put it up. and no one has been hurt.

That phrase suits you well ... so far ... as in 'yet' ...

You may not have "designed it", and you may not have "put it up", and maybe no one has been hurt ... "yet".

Once someone is, you will find out that you, as the contractor (builder) in charge of the project (which is who you are implying you are) ... that you will suddenly not be Teflon coated and that stuff actually sticks to you.

*YOU* pull the permit, *YOU* are responsible, in whole or in part, for the entire job. I say "in part" because you will likely be standing there with other defendants - the railing designer, the railing manufacturer, the railing installer, and everyone who touched it in any way along the way, including you, as the builder. You had your opportunity to warn your client of the potential dangers of it.

Had you done so, and your client insisted on that railing, you actually may well walk away free, except for the attorney's fees to get you that far.

Having not done so, and, in fact, encouraging a railing like that (the plaintiff's experts will find your defense of those railings right here ) and then you will be hung out to dry with the others.

Your call, we cannot make you actually think about safety and ways to accommodate safety with design. All we can do is point out the OBVIOUS.

Visual Aid for The ( future ) Plaintiff.
.

OK.... an area that has a railing of any sort... could be climbed over... a chair next to a railing... a person or child that is tall enough, wanting enough.

So... what to do... ahhh... a parent... a parent that works with their child as to life's dangers... that are everywhere, not just possibly this wire railing.


And as you all want... just don't build railings with horizontal wires... gotcha...

I feel I will be helping the world stay safe after today as I warn all not to get in cars, walk along rodes, ride bikes, use any power tools or screwdrivers or drywall knives, or kitchen knives... eat out... stoves are dangerous or just eat cold food. Do not heat your home or have electricity as both have caused millions to die... Cut down any tree near your home... they may fall in a storm.... wear shoes without shoelaces as you may trip on them someday...

Get rid of you cell phones... radiation... your granite stone fireplace... radon... same with countertop... seal your cellar off and install radon removal systems... do not paint your home.... so there are zero VOC's... no carpets... Do not sand teak...have you guys ever sanded teak? wow... I did once... that was enough... closed up my throat... won't do that again without a good mask... so no teak sanding.

I may wear my seatbelt tomorrow... starting to scare the heck out of myself just typing this post!

OK... kidding... guys... really.. I am with the inspector's inspector high committee and was asked to test you all as to whether this railing was safe...

You all passed... with A's... good job...

9PM here... I am passing out mugs of my favorite brew!

Cheers men.

aj

So... do any of you... have a sense of humor? (not about railings and death or safety.... just... in general!?)

Originally Posted by adkjac

9PM here... I am passing out mugs of my favorite brew!

So... do any of you... have a sense of humor? (not about railings and death or safety.... just... in general!?)

I don't like your favorite brew.


(Did you sense the humor?)

That's fine... let me know what you like... coffee, water... no problemo... I just had water with din din... as it is so good for my system... an IPA next.

Cheers J
aj

Add another one to the ignore list - CHECK!

found the checklist interesting...

with: AwfullyPicky. something...

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• I tell you everything I see - I know that you want to know everything possible about your future home, in order of its importance, so you can plan and prioritize your next steps. You do not want limited and filtered information in making your home purchase decision. We do not want you to have bad surprises when you move into your new home.
• The bottom line is that we care about you, your family, friends and visitors to your new home. - All the knowledge and experience a professional has will not give you what you want unless the inspector cares about you. We do.

See, "a better inspection" below for additional details

"Experience the Difference"

After checking out the competition - Call Jerry, 2############
better inspector – extensive knowledge, experience & communication skills - who takes great pleasure helping clients.

• Affiliation– Why I am an ASHI and AAIHI member? Because the other major inspection associations such as NACHI and NAHI have standards of practice that fall short of your needs for inspection quality, results and information. (see "a better inspector" below).
• Qualifications – A wide range of skills and expertise not only in home construction and building science, but in service industry management and quality assurance systems - this provides you thoroughness throughout the inspection and superior communication in a most professional and personable manner.
• Current inspection educator – Both the Michigan Institute of Real Estate and Schoolcraft College utilize my services in training other home inspectors. Qualified inspectors also seek my personal instruction and consultation in many aspects of home inspection.
• Experience– Over 25 years in construction and building science and maintenance. Complete analysis & reporting utilizing state of the art quality control and communication processes. ISO 9003. 2000 ready. Jerry is a past CQA, CIA, & CISA
• Licensed, Certified & Educated – Builder/remodeler, termite/rot inspector, AAIHI & ASHI certified member, past Certified Quality Auditor, BBA, past Certified Internal Auditor, (CIA), past Certified Information System Auditor, (CISA), Inspection Training Instructor, AAIHI quality auditor and Certified Quality Auditor, (CQA) . Past home builder and remodeling contractor. Founding member of the Michigan Association of Home Inspectors, MichAHI - Michigan Association of Home Inspectors.
• Fully insured – An “A” rated E&O/Professional Liability policy for your protection
• Attributes – Mantras: Safety First, Safety Always - Quality is job #1, "Kiezan", "
• I get my business from satisfied customers, and I appreciate your support." - Each assures you a high-quality inspection, report, and experience that is both informative and enjoyable. "Experience the difference"

See, "a better inspector" below for additional details
After checking out the competition - Call Jerry… get the better inspection!!!############
AwfullyPicky.com Home Inspections TM
A better inspection report: Immediate, Prioritized and Comprehensive.

• You receive two distinct on-site reports at the end of your inspection - No waiting. These reports alert you to existing and potential problems and concerns. We also make recommendations and give you ideas of various repairs and their likely costs. Your inspector [prepares and reviews the reports with you, and will be available, at no extra cost to you to address concerns or questions, even long after the inspection
• The Visual Physical Condition Report identifies the inspector's opinion regarding major inspection findings and concerns that may impact your purchase decision. As an added value, the report lists any major components that appear likely to require repair or replacement in the next five years. I am told by other real estate professionals that I am one of a few inspectors who offers this information, but I utilize a full five years instead of the two year norm. You can then plan your repair and replacement budget.
• The second report, The Inspection Findings & Notes lists the other needed repairs, safety defects, and other concerns observed which are not necessarily expensive to fix and are not thought to impact your decision to purchase. You can prioritize them as needed. Ask your inspector for his opinions and suggestions about these items.

You also receive the profession's most advanced information binder containing these timely resources:

• The home owner's maintenance schedule
• The closing walk-through assistance list
• Suggested improvements
• Items needed from the seller before closing
• Life cycle of building components
• Approximate cost to repair, replace & upgrade components
• The AwfullyPicky.com top 100 findings - typical problems

Condominium owners and association members also receive:

• Condominium & community association checklist - who is responsible for what?

Clients can call us free of charge with questions they have regarding home maintenance.
After checking out the competition - Call Jerry... get the best inspection you can afford!!!
AwfullyPicky.com Home inspections - ############

better inspection:Thorough, Thorough, Thorough

Your inspection will be an unbiased and objective analysis. We encourage you to join us at the inspection to see first hand the existing and potential problems. Feel free to ask questions. We seek your satisfaction and we want your support.

Our Top-of-the-line equipment provides you with insight and documentation. You will observe all the inspection findings through our optical and photographic equipment. You need not enter the crawlspace or climb onto the roof. We take you photographically through the inspection twice. We are the profession’s leader in taking you there remotely and assuring quality control.

State-of-the-art quality control systems assure you a complete and thorough inspection. Our techniques are the most advanced in the profession. You are assured of receiving the most thorough inspection. We take you photographically through the inspection a second time at the end. We cannot miss any important items without your knowledge. Our system is ISO 9003 and ISO 2000 compliant with the best internal and quality controls in any profession. (Wouldn't it be nice if doctors, lawyers, etc. could provide such peace of mind).

You receive the widest inspection coverage in the profession. I tell you the Good, the Bad and the Ugly about your home as required by the code of ethics of the American Association of Independent Home Inspectors (AAIHI). I won't hold back anything. I adhere to the Standards of Practice of the two leading professional organizations, the American Society of Home Inspectors, (ASHI) and the National Association of Home Inspectors (NAHI).

I work for you … not anyone else.

After checking out the competition - Call Jerry… get the better inspection!!!
AwfullyPicky.com Home Inspections TM
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

A better inspector – Extensive Knowledge, Experience and Care

"I get my business from satisfied customers, and I appreciate your support." You will be taken through the inspection findings - Twice! Just to allow you to better understand the conditions found. I do not substitute junior inspectors or sub-contracted inspectors to perform your inspection. You will always get an owning partner as your inspector. Feel free to ask your inspector, (a certified master inspector and licensed builder) all the questions you want!

Inspector qualifications:

• Licensed Residential Builder
• Sole home inspection instructor for the Michigan Institute of Real Estate
• Sole home inspection instructor for Schoolcraft College
• Certified Master Inspector – AAIHI & ASHI member
• State certified termite/rot inspector
• Advanced Graduate of Wayne State University - Detroit
• Certified quality auditor (CQA)
• Certified internal auditor (CIA, IIA member #59728)
• Fully Insured for your protection - professional liability, (errors and omission), policy

Caution:
NACHI and NAHI do not require reporting to their clients components and equipment that is old or near the end of its expected useful life unless its not functioning properly. Additionally, only major defects are to be reported by NACHI members. This may prevent their clients from learning about unsafe conditions, and likely to fail older equipment. I believe you deserve to know about these conditions and much more.
When investigating local inspectors, notice that some inspectors make light of the differences between ASHI, NAHI and NACHI, (the three major inspector associations). You have to question their critical judgment if they cannot see the differences between these organizations. You need to be worried that they may not be critical enough to perform a professional inspection for you.
The ASHI Standards of Practice places the client first before the mortgage and real estate referral sources. NAHI and NACHI inspectors know that you, as a single customer, cannot supply them the steady stream of referral business that a real estate agent or broker can. NAHI and NACHI allow softer inspections meant to appease agents, brokers and mortgage lenders who regularly refer NAHI and NACHI inspectors. One smooth talking national franchise inspection firm was found guilty of soft inspection bias. They did "soft" inspections for the agent referred customers, but preformed thorough, "hard" inspections for the repeat business of relocation company clients.
Inspection is a difficult profession to succeed at without agent and banker referrals. (You are unique in investigating the profession this thoroughly). Be careful of the inspector's true allegiance. At a "soft" inspection, inspectors typically downplay problems observed and only "recommend repair" instead of telling you the truth about the immediate risks you are buying into. Notice that these inspectors say they meet or exceed ASHI standards, but they fail to meet the ASHI standards' code of ethics. They also do not meet your desire or needs. You may not even know this is happening. It is like an unknowledgeable person going to a corrupt auto mechanic and getting fleeced, a little or a lot. These inspectors craft the inspection agreement so you sign your legal rights away and/or provide warranties that sound too good to be true.
After checking out the competition - Call Jerry… get the better inspection!!!
AwfullyPicky.com Home Inspections TM

###############
Sample Inspection Report -
(100% custom to meet the client's information needs. This report is written at the end of the inspection, on site and with you. It contains the major findings thought to impact your purchase decision. Each inspection report comes with a CD of all the photographs taken on site, at the inspection. The pertinent and applicable photo numbers are referenced in your two reports as needed to assist your understanding of the conditions found.)
Pre-Purchase Visual Physical Condition Report, (abridged for your convenience)

Building's Location:address in Southeast Michigan
Building's Era: 19XX

Inspection date:XX / XX / XXXX
Significantly deficient systems or components in need of immediate repair exceeding $1,000 and/or repairs for habitation, health, safety, etc. thought to impact your purchase decision.
1) Major roof leak - Repair immediately. Have the extensive mold caused by the water damage professionally tested and remediated if needed, (potential allergen and health hazards may exist, note - the wood structural rot is minor). Call me if you have further questions. Photos #5, 6, &11
2) Significant natural gas leak detected near meter. Immediately contact the utility company. Note that the utility company will shut off the natural gas to the home and require a licensed professional to make the necessary repair. The home will be without gas service until repaired, which means the furnace and water heater will not be operational until repaired and the house could freeze. Photo #17
3) The exterior sheathing of the electrical service cable is dangerously worn through by the UV of the sun. Hire a licensed electrician to make the necessary repairs required by electrical code. Moisture has entered the electrical service panel through the damaged cable and has dangerously corroded the wire connections and one circuit breaker. Replace this cable, clean the connections, and replace any damaged circuit breakers at the direction of the electrician. The electrical panel may have further hidden corrosion and your electrician or city electrical inspector may require its replacement. (see replacement cost schedule). Photo #13
4) Since you are going to be the landlord and rent this property, make all the safety repairs listed in the addendum pages. This will help protect your tenants as well as protect you from lawsuits. (Your inspector may be a helpful witness to fact regarding conditions at the time of the inspection.)
5) Have the homeowner make the electronic air filter operational on the furnace as well as the humidifier before closing. The seller reported them both as operational on the Seller's Disclosure Statement. Photos #22, & 23
6) The rear patio deck is not constructed strongly enough to safely carry the weight of occupants to the load level required by current building codes. Do not allow a large number of persons, (10 or more) to occupy the deck at one time until further support and building attachments are installed, as we discussed. (see repair cost schedule) Photos #41, 43, & 44
7) The air conditioner is not cooling the air by 16 to 22 degrees. Its cooling ability is so low, (8 degrees), that damage and corrosion may have already occurred to the internal components. A simple coolant recharge may not be sufficient to assure continued operating life beyond one or two seasons. Note that a new air conditioner unit will be significantly more expensive to purchase since the government now requires high efficiency SEER 13 units to replace the older and less efficient SEER 8 and 10 units. (see replacement cost schedule) Photo #49
8) Add an additional floor joist beside each of the cut joists observed in the basement ceiling to re-establish a strong and safe living room floor above. (see repair cost schedule) Photos #56, 57, & 58
Systems or components near the end of their service lives within the next 0 to 5 years and are likely to require repair or replacement anytime soon. Costs and/or damage are expected to exceed $500. (furnaces, central air conditioners, roof, retaining walls, porch stoop, balustrades, etc. but excludes built-in or other household appliances).
1) The furnace is very old and well beyond its' type and model's expected useful life. (see replacement cost schedule) It is also much less energy efficient than a newer unit. Photo #24
2) The central air conditioner is very old and well beyond its' type and model's expected useful life. (see replacement cost schedule) Photo #25
3) The exterior siding of the home shows signs of being near the end of its useful life and is one for which billions of dollars in lawsuits against the manufacturer have occurred. Unfortunately, lawsuit settlement funds are no longer available. (see replacement cost schedule) Photo #14
4) The four mature ash trees in the rear of the home are dying or dead and will be costly to remove. Tree removal services will not be able to get their truck close enough to cut the trees from the safely of their truck's boom, so removal estimates will be higher. (see cost schedule) Photo 18, & 19
5) The brick pavers are sinking and creating tripping hazards in the patio and walkways. (see cost schedule for cost of relaying several sections.) Photo #30
6) The West grade of the yard needs to slope away from the foundation at one inch per foot for six feet. Currently, the grade slopes toward the foundation and the basement foundation wall cracks show an occasional leak that could result in a future flood. Further water proofing may be needed over the cracks if the simple grade slope adjustment does not correct the problem. The perimeter drain tile/piping system may also be nearing the end of its useful life and may need cleaning. Excessive erosion has occurred along side the foundation. The drain tile system has carried much of this soil away and might have built up an excessive amount in the drain pipe. A plumber needs to insert a camera to determine the extent of blockage and possible damage. (see cost schedule) Photo #31
7) The diminished flow of "hot" water along with rust spots on the water distribution piping indicates that the galvanized water supply piping will need partial or full replacement soon. (see cost schedule) Photo #35
Inspector: Jerry A. Lootens - Please call if you have any questions, 248-224-0258
As you can see from the above report, the main report contains the information that most buyers need to know up front when buying a home. The information is concisely reported so you do not have to thumb through several pages to find it.
The following 14 page Visual Inspection Opinion & Notes (Addendum Pages), is your custom list of the many smaller findings at your inspection. You want to know about these problems since having too many of them may affect your decision. These items are equally important to repair and correct, but they are not thought to individually impact your purchase decision, but you get to decide.

A thorough inspection will report many small unsatisfactory conditions. Unique conditions encountered at your inspection are also reported to you by writing them in along with their details. No ordinary inspector performs this depth of professional service for you. Knowledge, experience, and love of duty and the profession is what you need in your inspector.

Visual Inspection Opinion & Notes

(abridged for your convenience)

14 Addendum Pages - Items thought not to, in and of themselves, impact the purchase decision, but they are important to repair and correct - copyright 1999
Address: __________________________________, Date: _____________ Building Era: _____

Structural -
__ install a diagonal 2 x4 brace at both gable ends of attic to prevent truss/roof racking.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
__ evidence of water or moisture penetration at __ foundation walls / floor, __ floor/wall junction, __ drain back-up, __ efflorescence, __ stains, __ rod hole leak stains, __ insect debris, __ vapor stains along floor cracks indicating periodic raised moisture levels, __ loose floor tiles, __ stained floor tile joints, __ sever / slight moisture damage: ___________
__horizontal crack in masonry foundation may move seasonally and could become significant.
__ use a de-humidifier in basement or crawlspace to reduce summer moisture.
__ repair separating stairway stringers
__ patch or tuck point missing / cracked mortar between foundation masonry units or concrete cracks.
__ secure support posts for their full length; Top and bottom and weld any loose connections between:
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Decks and porches:
__ install additional deck support for: __ girders/beams, __ledger board; anticipated loads: __ maximum weight on deck, __ point loads all anticipated by building code.
__ install additional fasteners or support under deck/porch beams/ girders since they poorly attached, i.e. attached to the sides of supporting posts, and are more likely to shear when fully loaded.
__ The deck ledger board is attached to the house face brick and may possibly not be securely attached to the structure behind the brick.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Garage:
__ roof ridge sags and exterior wall tops bow outward.
__ garage leans and needs to be straightened and wind bracing installed diagonally from the corner tops down to the bottom sill plates to prevent lean and racking.
__ replace or repair the rotted sill plate(s), siding: ____________________
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Exterior -
__ slope exterior grade at foundation: _____________________ , (clay soils, i.e. clean fill dirt prevents water penetration yet grass grows).
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Exterior: Driveways, Patios and Walkways:
__ head injury hazard from low hanging awnings and air conditioning unit:
__ fill in and level uneven surface next to walkways, driveways, and patios to prevent trip and fall hazards. Use firm fill in materials such as sod, clay or gravel.
__ clean, fill and caulk cracks and joints between concrete flags/slabs. Clean and fill gaps over a ¼ inch deep with foam backer rod and caulk all joints.
__ install foam backer rod in large joints and openings deeper than ¼ inch
__ use asphalt patch and filler on asphalt drives and walkways.
__ waterproof joint between the building foundation and: __ driveway, __ walkway, __ patio, __ porch, to prevent water penetration and the damage it does.

call me if you have any questions, Jerry @###########

Exterior: (continued) porches, patios, stairs and railings:-
__ secure loose step at: ____________________
__ sunken walkway / driveway surface: ____________________
__ seal asphalt driveway and walkway to prevent water penetration and deterioration.
__ tripping hazard: __ city sidewalk, __ front walkway, __ rear walkway, __driveway, __ front yard, __ rear yard, __ garage door threshold./ Use patching cement or asphalt patch to slope up to hazard, or cut, chip, fill, or remove or replace the dangerous area(s).
__ rail below __ 36", __ 48" height for safety at: _________________________________
__ install a 3’ high railing, safety wall, or balustrade beside: _________________________ stairway.
__ strangulation hazard: balusters, spindles, and rail to floor spacing is 4" or wider.
__ climb & fall hazard: balusters, spindles, and rails create an unsafe ladder for children.
__ install riser boards behind each stair tread to prevent strangulation.
__ install a 1" nose on each stair tread to prevent tripping at: ________________________
__ steps are: __ too high, __ too low, __ unequal height risers: ________________________________
__ install a secure and full length handrail on: __________________________________
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Other surfaces:
__ aesthetic - broken seal(s) between window thermo panes
__ head injury hazard from low hanging awning(s) and/or air conditioning unit(s):
__ tuck point loose or cracked brick mortar at: ____________________
__ seal rust or replace rusted metal lintel above doors & windows:___________________
__ city sidewalk slabs/flags may be condemned in the coming years as trip hazards.
__ water ponds on: __ city sidewalk, __ walkway, __ driveway, ____________________
__ maintain and paint horizontal wood trim and sashes every three years to prevent rot.
__ replace / repair rotted wood at: ____________________________________________
__ repair/paint/glaze: __ window sills/sashes, __ storm windows, __ siding, __ trim, __ doors,
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
__ caulk window frames, chimney and siding.
__ caulk or rebuild the crown/wash cap atop the chimney to prevent water damage.
__ repair, prime and paint exterior chimney chase and its metal top sheathing, caulk as needed.
__ trim trees and bushes away from roof and siding.
__ remove tree at: __________________________________________________ ________
__ have arborist inspect trees for viability, rot, & too tight "vee" crotches that split trunks.
__ sunken or heaved walkway / driveway / garage surface: _____________________________________
__ install vermin screens or moisture wicks in brickwork weep holes to prevent infestations
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry 2############

Roofing: -
__ 4/12 or lower roof pitch without visible ice dam membrane or inappropriate application of roof shingles.
__ house / garage: __ shingles, __ roof valleys are badly worn and need maintenance to extend useful life and prevent leaks.
__ Repair as needed roof flashing or roof cement patching at: __ chimney, __ vent pipe.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Gutters:
__ loose nails. __ falling /sagging. __need sloping. __ need cleaning.
__ missing: _______________________________________________.
__ joints leak and need butyl or polyurethane caulking repair.
__ extend downspouts. __ install splash blocks. __ move downspout: _________________
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Plumbing: -
__ main valve missing, __ missing handle, _______________________________________________
__ dishwasher drain hose needs to be elevated to top of underside of counter to prevent backflow from polluting cleaned dishware.
__ water softener needs air space between its discharge pipe and the sanitary sewer drain to prevent backflow of polluted water from backing up into softener.
__ copper to iron pipe connection missing di-electric unions to prevent corrosion.
__________________ faucet: __leaks; __ likely worn washer, seat or stem/ball
__________________ faucet: __leaks; __ likely worn washer, seat or stem/ball
__________________ faucet: __leaks; __ likely worn washer, seat or stem/ball
__ back flow preventer needed at: __ bibs/sill cock, ___ laundry tub, ______________
__ reversed hot & cold supplies at: __ shower, __ lavatory, __ bath, __ laundry, ___________________
__ install water hammer arrestors at washing machine water line connections.
__ secure loose piping: __________________________________
__________________________________________________ ___________________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry #########3##

Plumbing -
Water Heating Equipment:
__ gurgling indicates sediment buildup in tank. Overheating usually leads to tank failure.
__ missing temperature pressure relief valve, (TPR), explosion danger, scalding hazard.
__ missing ¾" TPR discharge pipe terminating within 4" of floor (with unthreaded end).
__ stuck / missing water shut-off / handle; __ stuck / missing gas shut-off / handle
__ copper to iron pipe connection missing di-electric unions to prevent corrosion.
__ missing unions require cutting water supply pipe to replace heater.
__ set water temperature to 115 to 120 degrees F. Scalding may still occur due to water stratification.
__ an upper and lower air vent is needed to supply combustion air to gas burning appliances per manuals.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Drain, Waste, Vent Systems:
__ loose toilet: ______________ subfloor or flange may be damaged. Possible unseen mold/rot growth.
__ "S" trap may self siphon allowing sewer gas into home. __ missing trap allows sewer gas into home.
__ determine and correct slow drainage at: ____________________
__ secure two laundry tub legs to floor to prevent water and drain pipe vibration leaks.
__ loose tile: __bathtub, __ shower, __________________________________
__ re-grout tile: __bathtub, __ shower, __________________________________
__ use clear penetrating grout sealer and reseal: bathtub, shower, or floor grout _____________
__ apply proper colored silicone caulk at all 90 degree tile joints, especially where cracked.
__ Cast iron drain pipe is corroding through.
__ locate and expose floor drain under carpet.
__ locate and expose all floor drains.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Sump & Perimeter Drain System:
__ create or secure lid or lockable access door to pit to avoid child injury or death.
__ pump did not operate when tested. __________________________________________________ ___
__ sump pumps into sanitary sewer, (May overload sewage treatment plant. City also pays by volume).
__ gray water dumped into sump pit instead of into sewer
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Fuel piping system:
__ stuck / missing water shut-off / handle
__ prevent an open valve from causing an explosion, cap open end of gas pipe: _____________
__ install only code allowed flexible piping to stove and laundry drier, (to allow for movement).
__ gas appliances share ½" supply pipe which may cause gas exhaust danger at burners
__ water fitting installed on gas line. May cause leakage, injury or fire.
__ meter and/or gas piping exposed to potential vehicular damage.
__ install gas shut-off valve in room at location of gas appliance.
__ small gas leak: ____________________________________
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry ############

Electrical: -
__ electrical service drop cables need replacement to prevent contact with live current. Electrical tape is not an allowed repair method, nor safe repair
__ physically protect / secure service cables from impact or pulling, use clips, conduit, etc.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Electrical panel: __ access obstructed, __ panel cover: __ missing, __ stuck, __ painted shut.
__ pointed screws used to attach cover and may cause arcing and fire.
__ missing __ screws to safely attach the panel cover to the service panel box.
__ double tapped: __ circuit breaker, __ fuse block, __ panel lugs, (corrosion & fire may result).
__ considered unsafe and dangerous by many experts the Federal Pacific Stab-Lok electrical service panel should be replaced with another manufacturer’s equipment.
__ circuit breakers not of the panel’s manufacturer’s. Replace with allowable breakers.
__ 120 volt circuit breaker not protected by a 240 volt breaker - (split buss): may cause electrocution or fire.
__ install cable clamps at metal panel or box knockout holes to protect against abrasion damage.
__ exterior ground rod requires an exterior acorn type cable clamp to minimize corrosion.
__ missing #6 or #4 AWG ground wire @125 and 150Amps respectively to jump water meter
__ electrical panel neutral Buss in not bonded, i.e. connected, to panel for safety
__ telephone and/or cable TV systems are not grounded to electrical service panel ground system.
__ 3 wire 120/240 volt sub-panel service should be replaced with a 4 wire cable with isolated neutral.
Electrical circuitry:
__ install, __ replace, __ rewire ground fault circuit interrupter, (GFCI/GFI): ________________,
__ homeowner electrical work, (non-professional workmanship), in __ basement, __ attic, __ garage, _________________ all needs to be inspected and made safe by a qualified electrician.
__ missing hole covers over: __ knock out holes, __ breaker holes, _______________________
__ Holes allow vermin and insect entry and probing by children.
__ missing cover plates on: __ connection boxes, __ switches, __ receptacles, ____________________
__ missing cable clamps (abrasion=fire hazard) at metal knockout holes at, __ connection box, __ panel, __ basement ceiling light fixtures, __ garage, ______________________
__ reverse polarity of receptacle(s) may cause fire or electrocution hazard: ______________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry ############

Electrical (continued): -
__ install junction box - exposed connections hazardous, __ attic, __ garage, __ basement, ___________
__ tighten loose receptacles and switches, __ bedroom, __ kitchen, __ garage, __ basement, __________
__ replace fatigued receptacles and switches.
__ make safe the weak ground, (high resistance) receptacle: ___________________________________
__ install dual blade receptacle or GFCI labeled "ungrounded", in all ungrounded receptacles.
__ make safe the lost ground connection at receptacle in: ______________________________________
__ install a three-way light switch to light: __stairway, __ hallway, __ other:_______________.
__ install a permanent receptacle per code for: __ garage door opener, __laundry, __ sump pump. Extension cord used as permanent wiring is considered dangerous.)
__ install / replace missing, nonworking, or thought to be over 10 years old smoke detectors.
___ install / replace missing, nonworking, or thought to be over 5 years old carbon monoxide detectors
__ no combustible items to be stored within 18 inches of any bare light bulb, 12 inches for a globed light, 6 inch for florescent fixtures.
__ keep insulation 3"away from and never over non-IC rated, (per label) recessed light fixtures.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Heating: -
__ asbestos is probably contained in paper duct wrap or fire board above furnace or in fluepipe or Transite ductwork, or in mortar securing the flue pipes to the chimney. Professional removal is required if asbestos fibers can become airborne, (friable).
__ install upper & lower combustion air supply vents for furnace, boiler & water heater room.
__ service and safety check furnace or boiler before heating season by a licensed furnace or boiler contractor.
__ have furnace/boiler serviced and cleaned, (less than optimum flame color or pattern)
__ install a filter holder. Currently combustibles can bypass filter and be ignited and blown into home.
__ install a chimney liner to prevent corrosion and acids from destroying the masonry.
__ protect occupants from the low hanging and sharp ductwork. Cushion as needed.
__ air return too close to furnace or other gas burning appliances. Relocate at least 10’ away.
__ 2 air supply vents needed to supply combustion air to gas burning appliances. See appliance manual.

__________________________________________________ ____________________________

__ humidifier did not operate
__ electronic air cleaner appears not to function. (existing electronic air cleaner housing can usually accept a membrane filter that has nearly equivalent cleaning ability)
__ air supply or air return missing or not functioning at: _____________________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry 2###########

Air conditioning:

-

__ evaporator (output) temperature only __ degrees cooler than return air (input) temperature. Ideal cooling temperature difference is 16 to 22 degrees, Have inspected. Possible leakage.
__ install electrical safety disconnect outdoors within sight of compressor unit.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

Interiors:

__ cushion hard - sharp edges of hearths and other protruding surfaces to prevent fall injury
__ replace any pre-1998 horizontal plastic mini blinds. They contain lead and lead dust.
__ shorten window shade blind cords that pose a strangulation hazard to children
__ unsafe windows, __ stuck sash, __ sash falls, __ security bars not hand operable,
__ install railing or safety glass at: ______________________________
__ aesthetic - broken seal(s) between thermo window panes
__ broken window pane: ___________________________
__ replace door or window glazing with safety or tempered glass: ______________________________
__ install hand operated dead bolt locks on fire egress and security doors.
__ missing/broken storm door safety strap to prevent wind damage, ($10.00)
__ pocket door not operating: _____________________________________
__ repair door: __ strikes jamb, __ loose hinge, __ does not close, __ adjust strike plate.
__ get any interior door keys to avoid being locked out of a room.
__ use wood screws to attach wall mounted cabinetry
__ use mirror clips to hold glued mirrors to wall
__ fire stop: __ garage hatch cover, __ pull down stairway needs ¾ plywood cover with 1.5 " overlap, __ garage passage door window, __ holes or gaps over 1/8 " in firewall, __ garage to house windows or doors, __ exposed foam insulation, __ exposed flammable insulation (paper/foil) backing, ________
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry ############

Interior: Garage door and power opener
__ overhead door safety reverse sensors need to be 4.5 to 6" above garage floor.
__ power opener controls need to be at least 5’ above floors to prevent child operation.
__ dangerous style of side springs can badly pinch fingers
__ dangerous low hanging door or components may cause head injury
__ install a safety cable inside springs to prevent flailing of broken spring ends.
__ professionally adjust overhead door springs. Door may fall when disconnected from travel rod.
__ tighten sagging traveler chain to a maximum 1" vertical droop.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________
Floors, stairs, rails, etc.:
__ install a secure and full length handrail on: __________________________________
__ rail height: below __ 36", __ 48" for safety at: _________________________________
__ do not break nine inch square floor tiles in pre-1965 homes as they and the glue that adhere them to floor may contain asbestos.
__ install a 3’ high railing, safety wall, or balustrade beside: ________________ stairway
__ strangulation hazard: balusters, spindles, and rail to floor spacing is 4" or wider.
__ climb & fall hazard: balusters, spindles, and/or rails create an unsafe ladder for children.
__ install riser boards behind each stair tread to prevent strangulation.
__ install a 1" nose on each stair tread to prevent tripping at: ________________________
__ steps are: __ too high, __ too low, __ unequal height: __________________________
__ repair separating stairway stringers. __ trip hazard at:
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry ############

Ventilation & Insulation:
Ventilation:
__ bathroom exhaust fans should discharge outdoors, or within 6" of a roof vent, (old code),
__ broken duct ________________________________________.
__ install an exhaust vent or vent bathroom fan outdoors instead of into attic: ______________________
__ install smooth metal dryer vent pipe to avoid lint build-up & fire hazard. Clean vent regularly.
R_ install a basement or crawlspace dehumidifier for use during the summer cooling season to reduce condensation.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Insulation:
__ Do not disturb vermiculite insulation as it has a high probability of containing some friable asbestos.
For most pre-1965 homes, add insulation to exterior walls of any home where wall insulation is currently no more than one inch thick. In pre-1930 homes replace any active knob and tube electrical wiring with modern circuit wiring before insulating.
For most pre-1975 homes, insulate above foundation exterior walls against the bond/ band joist in basement and/or crawlspace. Follow code for access to monitor for any termite activity. Insulating this area typically provides the best energy savings for the money.
maintain or increase attic insulation to a R49 level, (the equivalent of 14" of fiberglass insulation.
__ keep insulation 3"away from and never over non-IC rated,
__ insulation in direct contact with the roof sheathing may cause the shingles, (in direct sunlight) to over heat and prematurely wear out.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________

call me if you have any questions, Jerry ############

Fireplaces and solid fuel burning appliances -
__ pre-1960’s masonry chimneys do not have the now required 2" air gap between the chimney and other combustibles such as the wood structure.
__ extend hearth 16" deep and 8" beyond each side if fireplace opening less than 6 sq. ft. inches, otherwise 20" and 12" each side.
__ replace missing refractory mortar or use high temp caulk to fill smaller gaps and cracks between the firebox or smoke box, and the face brickwork to prevent causing a wall fire.
__ install a safety clip on the natural gas fireplace damper to vent gas build up per code.
__ broken or stuck damper.
__ install child protection bumpers around hearth
__ cracked firebox ceramic walls/tiles. Obtain replacement from manufacturer.
__ mantel is too loose, __ too close to opening above fire box
__ caulk or rebuild the crown /wash cap atop the chimney to prevent water damage.
__ repair, prime and paint exterior chimney chase and its metal top sheathing, caulk as needed.
__ install a vermin screen cap atop chimney. The screen needs 6"+ of clear vertical height.
__ install a non-combustible wall or hearth following code, between the heating appliance and the combustible wall or floor.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________

Page 14 of 14 [Fireplace & Solid Fuel Burning Appliances & Chimney]
call me if you have any questions, Jerry ############

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The highest compliment you can give me is the referral of your family and friends. My business comes from satisfied customers, and I appreciate your support.

Originally Posted by adkjac

Billy...

. Get over yourself.

Do you live in cyber world?

So... do any of you... have a sense of humor? (not about railings and death or safety.... just... in general!?)

.
Stop by and see me some time just Ring the Bell.
.

Along with the bad wire railing... more to look into in dwellings... quite the list.

No need to ignore... going to bed... check.

am laughing good at that Billy.. but my cat is now scared to look at any more pics!