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  1. #1
    Josh Sieben's Avatar
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    Default Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    I recently purchased an avalon wood stove insert and I want to hard wire it. The problem is that I don't have existing electricity running to the fireplace.

    Every electrician I call acts like this has never been done before, but I'm wondering if I can come through my chimney in the attic with a dedicated line, and run it down into a junction box at the back of the firebox.

    I will be doing a full reline (flue and insulation) and I want to use high temperature (PTFE 14/2) wire, so I don't really see the big deal as long as I adhere to 2" clearance, that is unless I'm totally missing something.

    It's been such a hassle that I may just do it myself, but I don't want to violate any codes.

    Also, does anyone know what kind of operating temps I'll be looking at inside of the chimney after the reline ?

    Any help you gentlemen can provide would be greatly appreciated.

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Sieben View Post
    I want to use high temperature (PTFE 14/2) wire
    I didn't find any insulation rated as PTFE in the NEC, so unless it is there and I just missed it, no, that would not be allowed.

    I also looked in the 2012 UL White Book and did not find that insulation listed there either.

    Unless something is found what shows that is an approved wiring product, no, that would not be allowed.

    Jerry Peck, Construction / Litigation Consultant
    Construction Litigation Consultants, LLC ( www.ConstructionLitigationConsultants.com )
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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    Exclamation Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    2,100F. That's the listing test temp. for a chimney liner or factory chimney. Also, the insulation on the wiring would be treated as a 'combustible' unless you can find a lab test report indicating it passed ASTM E-136, which is a 750C test. You cannot run electrical cable down inside a chimney flue even if it has a listed liner.

    Keep the fire in the fireplace.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Harper View Post
    2,100F. That's the listing test temp. for a chimney liner or factory chimney. Also, the insulation on the wiring would be treated as a 'combustible' unless you can find a lab test report indicating it passed ASTM E-136, which is a 750C test. You cannot run electrical cable down inside a chimney flue even if it has a listed liner.

    Unless i met the proper clearances no ?


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    Default Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Sieben View Post
    Unless i met the proper clearances no ?
    Not even then.

    Jerry Peck, Construction / Litigation Consultant
    Construction Litigation Consultants, LLC ( www.ConstructionLitigationConsultants.com )
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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    Thumbs down Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    In this case, the proper clearances would be for electrical cable run OUTSIDE of a chimney flue--not inside as a chase. Remember, you'er talking about trapping heat in that space over a long term. Bad idea.

    Keep the fire in the fireplace.

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    Default Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Sieben View Post
    I recently purchased an avalon wood stove insert and I want to hard wire it. The problem is that I don't have existing electricity running to the fireplace.

    Every electrician I call acts like this has never been done before, but I'm wondering if I can come through my chimney in the attic with a dedicated line, and run it down into a junction box at the back of the firebox.

    I will be doing a full reline (flue and insulation) and I want to use high temperature (PTFE 14/2) wire, so I don't really see the big deal as long as I adhere to 2" clearance, that is unless I'm totally missing something.

    It's been such a hassle that I may just do it myself, but I don't want to violate any codes.

    Also, does anyone know what kind of operating temps I'll be looking at inside of the chimney after the reline ?

    Any help you gentlemen can provide would be greatly appreciated.
    Travis Industries makes a listed concealed wiring kit to get electrical inside the firebox where the insert is located. {Not down the flue - inside the firebox.) It plugs right into their blowers.

    Bart Ogden
    Wichita, KS


  8. #8
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    Default Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Harper View Post
    In this case, the proper clearances would be for electrical cable run OUTSIDE of a chimney flue--not inside as a chase. Remember, you'er talking about trapping heat in that space over a long term. Bad idea.

    What I meant to say in my original post is that I want to run electrical wire in the dead space between the 6" Metal insulated flue that will be installed, and the existing masonry flue. The wire will be High Temperature, and concealed in conduit.

    I cant see how this could possibly be a fire hazard considering the conduit is not considered a combustible, and that the new flue is insulated.

    I hate to beat a dead horse, but I know a lot of people hard-wire their blowers, and I just can't find any documentation or pictures demonstrating the installation of a junction box at the back of the firebox.

    Any codes you could possibly list, or pictures you can provide to help me get a better understanding of how to go/not go about this would be greatly appreciated.


  9. #9
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    Default Re: Electricity for Wood Stove Fan Blower

    Josh Sieben,

    We get what you're "proposing". We understand that you are looking to re-purpose the masonry chimney to become a "chase" for a stove insert and a manufactured chimney system or a Flue liner system to be installed within.

    No you cannot install your electrical system extension in the "chase" of a mansonry chimney or in the formerly purposed "flue" space that contains your to-be installed "(re)liner" or manufactured chimney system.

    That masonry chimney extends and is theoretically spaced from combustibles and is appropriately "fire blocked and draft stopped" where transitioning between prescribed "fire resistant construction" which includes floor/ceiling assemblies, ceiling/attic or roof structure assemblies, roof, and structural and/or demarking walls.

    To do so concerns not only the activity and containment of the chimney flue, but also the spread of fire or smoke from another source, and as we also know, no chimney once used is ever fully "clean". Examples include (but not limited to) an electrical fire - ignition of deposits within the former flue space and chase, spread beyond those areas of fire resistant construction; and additionally weather, insects, rodents, etc. path of travel from and back into the home, cavities, etc. There is also the possibility of lightening, and a host of other things considered. The space is unconditioned, subject to moisture, corrosive effects, heat, smoke, and passes containment/resistant construction.

    The entire space within and the first inch or two of the exterior of the masonry chimney structure may not include your electrical system extensions/expansions (or just about anything else), as you describe your project.

    Without specifics what might be suggested may or may not be valid as we have no details on your structure type, the space, etc.

    Why you may be resistant to what has already been suggested and explained by another poster is unclear, but going "down" or into the masonry chimney is NOT an option, as I understand your description as originally posted and your several responses throughout the instant topic discussion. What and where you propose is not permitted for many reasons involving electrical, building, maintenance, fire codes.

    This is likely why those "electricians" you "consulted", and those chimney, hearth, firepace professionals, have refused to do what you suggest.

    No junction box or similar is installed in the firebox. The masonry fireplace must remain re-convertable to its original use. The "junction" hand-hold, etc. remains outside the fireplace and accessible (such as in a wall behind a removable wall plate, etc. then the approved wiring method is carried forth to the device within - where it may be later removed and the integrity of the firebox remediated and returned to original use. Another alterntative is to demolish the entirety of the masonry fireplace and its chimney, remediate the structure, envelope, etc. and start fresh with completely different set-up, such as a free-standing stove and manufactured chimney.

    Last edited by H.G. Watson, Sr.; 10-17-2012 at 01:59 PM.

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