Thread: Dryer exhaust eroding masonry wall

What is your recommendation when you encounter this - in this case the exhaust is already at the basement ceiling, and I'm reluctant to recommend an extension away from the structure (which would overhang a service walkway about 6" above grade) or to recommend an external bend upwards (condensation and increased back pressure).

Perhaps a piece of sheet metal against the wall with a drip edge at the bottom?

Or, just recommend "improvement as required"?

(Yes, the mortar quality issue - also evident elsewhere - will be reported,)

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I don't see that as a major threat to the building. I'd recommend they repair the mortar.
If there's a need to protect the bricks, why not paint 'em? Different climate here, though.

John wrote:"If there's a need to protect the bricks, why not paint 'em?"


Aggggghhhhh!!!!

Paint is one of the most effective means we have of killing brick walls. I hope like heck that was written in jest.

Bob

Originally Posted by Bob Harper

Aggggghhhhh!!!!


Bob

Thanks, Bob. Here's a smiley.

I don't like painted brick either, but if the damage is from moisture in that area, my question is "why not paint" if they use the correct type of paint?


Subject: Brick Painting Research
Ontario Heritage Foundation Architectural Conservation Practice Manual
The Ontario Heritage Foundation (now the Ontario Heritage Trust) provides
several recommendations for the conservation of brick. They note that old brick
was usually produced in smaller batches and is often less uniform than modern
brick. They also note that face brick is usually more durable than interior brick, or
sometimes even side or rear wall brick. A key to long-term preservation is to
keep moisture out of walls, and to allow what moisture does enter to escape in a
non-damaging way.
With regard to brick sealing, the Foundation provides the following:
“Do not seal brick surfaces with silicones or consolidants, which
trap water vapour behind the surface of the brick; when that vapour
condenses, it may freeze or leach salts that will eventually destroy
the brick face. Similarly, do not slap stucco on a deteriorated brick
surface to hide the problem; it will simply mask further deterioration
that will eventually crumble both brick and stucco. Far more
acceptable is repointing with porous mortar that lets the wall
“breathe” to the outside, allowing moisture to migrate and
evaporate through the mortar, not the brick.”
Local Restoration Specialist
The City’s Building Department suggested contacting a masonry restoration
Paint Manufacturers
I conducted some research and found that several manufacturers carry products
designed to cover masonry, though information on their vapour permeability
characteristics is not readily provided. Benjamin Moore, Para and Glidden all
have information on their websites about acrylic paints that are supposed to be
safe for use on brick.
Brick Paint Specialists
I also located two different brick paint companies. PermaTint in Toronto
advertises a silicate-based masonry stain with a 30-year warranty. The stain is
designed to soak into the brick and allows them to match bricks to any colour, or
to completely change the colour of brickwork. The Brick Painters in
Campbellford advertise an alternative to stripping existing paint from brickwork.
They specialize in re-creating the appearance of natural brick over top of painted
surfaces, providing 3 basic colours and the option of custom-blending to any
shade. The key to these processes is that they use a specialized application
technique to recreate the textured appearance of natural brick – there does not
appear to be a single ‘brick coloured paint’ that can be purchased and applied

I'm very skeptical that the dryer exhaust is eroding the wall. Think about all the brick chimneys in use (yes, I know some of the "newer" ones have liners in them), but I have seen older ones that don't.

I would suspect its splash back, or maybe the result of that wonderful salt that my northern pals apply to everything.