Thread: Unducted toe-kick register

Saw this question asked on another forum, and seems like something I ought to know:

Is continuous ducting required to a residential toe-kick register, or can you just duct to the cabinet base area below the cabinet floor and above the sub-floor or finished floor?

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The cabinet does not meet the requirements for duct material and therefore can not be a duct. The duct must be run to the register.

Tough I am not sure it is required, it seems most professionals prefer to use a toe kick extension for under cabinets

My concern would be that if the forced air was not directed properly that it would be wasteful and the cabinet would get pretty hot inside of it, causing potential damage to items inside; i.e lady's makeup in bathroom...

Originally Posted by Fred Weck

The cabinet does not meet the requirements for duct material and therefore can not be a duct. The duct must be run to the register.

That was my assumption as well, but is there a code commentary or other explict source of support for this opinion?

Ooops.... I see we already did this one, I just did not use the right search terms:

http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_i...ting-work.html

It is very common to not run metal all the way to register. It is not code to do it that way though. A building cavity may be used for return air but supply needs to be an approved material (Not a cabinet). Section 602 and 603 in the IMC cover this subject in more detail.

The repair to install the duct under the cabinet is relatively simple. Below are photos of a retrofit in progress.

Hi, I am know this is about forcedhot air systems but I am getting ready to install a toe kick heater with forced hot water. Would anyone have any advice on the do's and don't's on this? Thanks for your assistance

Bob

Bob ...
- properly size the unit
- provide proper electrical and water connections for the unit
- depending on the location of the unit along the run and pipe layout, consider installing a separate zone pump for the unit. Isn't totally necessary but does help depending on pipe configuration
- cut the back end of the cabinet out at toe kick height so the cabinet can be slid outward without worrying about the countertop
- or consider cutting out and re-installing the bottom of the cabinet floor so that it acts as a removable panel
These are great little units that work really well when properly installed. I used to install lots of them during kitchen remodels. Oddly I just saw some today at the supply house on closeout for $150
Good luck

Originally Posted by Bob Cote

Hi, I am know this is about forcedhot air systems but I am getting ready to install a toe kick heater with forced hot water. Would anyone have any advice on the do's and don't's on this? Thanks for your assistance

Bob

The fans on these units are normally activated by an aqua-stat. Set it up for around 125 degree on and a 110 to 100 degree off.