Thread: Roof Inspector

I'm a roof consultant and inspector in the the Great Wet North, Vancouver Canada. I have been inspecting for two years and getting my RRO (Registered Roof Observer) designation early in the new year. Up here all new multi family residential requires full envelope inspection of which I do the roofing. I also inspect commercial , re-roofs and condition reports.

I have been in roofing for 10 years, all different types, from Tar & Gravel, 2-ply SBS (torch-on),shingles, TPO. I have not had a chance to apply any of the older types such as slate, but then nobody builds anything that would need a 100+ year roof anymore.

I'm enjoying the good natured banter, and all the different perspectives.

Frank Suchodolski, High Profile Roof Care Inc.

Similar Threads:

• Possible roof damage, or inspector damage?
• T1-11 as roof sheathing for patio roof
• Nodules on rubber roof; rubber roof longevity?
• colorado inspector needs california inspector help
• roof slope vs roof pitch

Frank,

Those wood shakes look to be improperly applied (directionally speaking with regard to the direction of the flow of water on that roof) beside, over, and above that eyebrow.

There will be a lot of water running laterally across (parallel with the courses) those shingles, shingles which are intended to shed water running perpendicular to the courses.

What say you on that?

Those look like wood shingles...

I second what Matt said

Wood shakes, wood shingles, does not matter with regard to my post.

They (both) are design to shed water down over them perpendicular to the alignment of the courses, not parallel to the alignment of the courses.

Heck, might as well shingle a roof with the courses from eave to ridge, it would amount to the same thing.

Who cares! Man that is a cool looking roof. If there are plenty of layers of water proof underlayment interlaced with each course, it will probably last as long as any wood roofs I have seen. Life time warranty usually is stated as 25 years in the fine print. Take a picture as this is the best it will ever look!

I thought that that picture would catch some interest, they are cedar shingles, they were going for the wow factor, therefor there is a full self sealing peel & stick membrane underneath. The Cedar shingles are there for UV protection and looks. This is a 25 million dollar house in the British Properties.

Here are a few more pics. All the metal roofing is copper, the gutters were stainless steel, they didn't like the look (duh) so they installed a copper facer>

it's a wonderful roof.
I just see a disreguard of the concern to maintain that no two joints in any three adjacent courses shall be in direct alignment...
this is a code thing by the way.
I have seen it as a detail for vinyl siding . I always look for it in any courses that use random length material. especially wood floors.
Nobody does it. nobody cares.

Originally Posted by Frank Suchodolski

I thought that that picture would catch some interest, they are cedar shingles, they were going for the wow factor, therefor there is a full self sealing peel & stick membrane underneath.

With a $25 mil home *I* would not want to put my faith in "self-sealing" membranes.

The only way to have done that properly, for that look, and I've have expensive homes like that do it, is to but modified down as *the* roof covering, then, adhesively attach whatever your heart desires to it .. but do not perforate that sucker with nail holes.

My gawd, what a waste to perforate that peel-n-stick stuff up like that.

Might as well order it perforated from the factory.

Granted Richard, but as I said the shingles are there for UV protection (for the peel & stick membrane, Soprema's Lastobond Shield if I remember right) and looks.

It's the look of a traditional craftsman's' handiwork that is supposed to be here. That's what I look for in 5 or 500 $ a sg ft jobs.
That's just the way I was taught as a kid.
That thing about the joints is code proper.
I really appreciate the traditional materials. I would never expect this job to not be approved, I would however show the installer the code section for the next time he has a shingle in his hand and has a choice where to lay it down. He might care, he might want to do it right. He might even run into somebody who notices.
Regardless it a good loookin job.
If the shingles where placed code proper the underlayment would not even be wanted.
except over that fisheye and the ridge.
Using it might even be a code violation, technically. because of breathing issues.

Craftsmen...hard to find nowadays. Most of the new systems are made to be somewhat ...for lack of a better term "Idiot proof". Skill is still needed but margin for error is built in, hence the requirement of 15lb felt underlay on shingle roofs, felt interlaced in shake roofs, if the roofs were done right, there would be no need for underlay except at the eaves for ice damming.
Here in British Columbia, Canada, we do have an 3-year Apprenticeship to become a Journeyman Roofer for low slope (flat) roofing but we can't seem to reign in the steep slope trade. Hence they are only as good as their teacher, sometimes good, most times bad. Unfortunately if you have the want to be a roofer you can buy a nail gun and compressor (no hammer) and call yourself "[insert yor name here] Roofing"

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

With a $25 mil home *I* would not want to put my faith in "self-sealing" membranes.

The only way to have done that properly, for that look, and I've have expensive homes like that do it, is to but modified down as *the* roof covering, then, adhesively attach whatever your heart desires to it .. but do not perforate that sucker with nail holes.

My gawd, what a waste to perforate that peel-n-stick stuff up like that.

Might as well order it perforated from the factory.

It would be too hard to get the nails into the holes if it came like that from the factory! I will have to go back there next year for a 2-year re-inspection on the flat roofs, I will have to see how the shingles are fareing.