Thread: washer drain into laundry sink

this house had a standard drain betwen the suppy lines but chose to do this? Unless the line was clogged Is there any reason this is better and are there any issues other than sanitary ones and cosmetics?

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Laundry drain not being used should be capped to prevent sewage gases from entering the home. Line may be clogged and will require repairs if being put back into use.
Sink has been damaged to install laundry drain line.
Recommend consulting with owner as to why normal drain was not used.

Aside from that, no concerns.

Originally Posted by Jerome W. Young

this house had a standard drain betwen the supp lines but chose to do this? Unless the line was clogged Is there any reason this is better

It's not "better", and in fact is "not allowed".

First, you now have a hole through the side of the sink which will leak. This violates the listing and labeling the sink was made to and makes the sink in one of those 'time to throw this away' things.

Second, you would want, if it were to be there, the hose to be up and over the side of the sink, with the bottom of the hose at least two inches above the overflow level of the sink.

The only reason I can think of that this was done was because the drain is clogged and they could not unclog it, or the drain line was never hooked up.

and are there any issues other than sanitary ones and cosmetics?

Other than sanitary and cosmetic?

That pretty much covers it anyway, right?

How old was the house?

2001, the owner was not available to answer why this was done, but he was an engineer

Originally Posted by Jerome W. Young

2001, the owner was not available to answer why this was done, but he was an engineer

"but he was an engineer "

That explains it.

Was the factory knock out knocked out at the drain in the recessed washer box? Maybe he did not know it was there?

Possible contamination of the potable water supply along with the other comments above!

You want a drink of my dirty laundry water? Don't pay any attention to the suds!

yup, knock out removed

DEFINITION OF AN ENGINEER

“An engineer is a person who passes as an exacting expert on the basis of being able to turn out with prolific fortitude infinite strings of incomprehensible formulas calculated with micrometric precision from e assumptions which are based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments carried out with instruments of problematical accuracy by persons of questionable mentality and doubtful reliability for the avowed purpose of annoying and confusing a hopelessly chimerical group of esoteric fanatics referred to altogether too frequently as technicians.”

Originally Posted by Wayne Carlisle

Possible contamination of the potable water supply along with the other comments above!

You want a drink of my dirty laundry water? Don't pay any attention to the suds!

I agree that the whole thing is no good, but I don't understand how it could contaminate the potable water supply.

On a lot of laundry sinks people attach hoses to help spray of different things. They could have the hose laying in the sink filling it up for something when the washing machine in drain cycle. Main break down the street and you have back siphonage....= contamination of the potable water supply.

P2902.3.1 Air gaps.

Air gaps shall comply with ASME
A112.1.2 and air gap fittings shall comply with ASME
A112.1.3. The minimum air gap shall be measured vertically
from the lowest end of a water supply outlet to the flood level
rim of the fixture or receptor into which such potable water
outlets discharge. The minimum required air gap shall be
twice the diameter of the effective opening of the outlet, but in
no case less than the values specified in Table P2902.3.1. An
air gap is required at the discharge point of a relief valve or
piping. Air gap devices shall be incorporated in dishwashing
and clothes washing appliances.

The outlet to the faucet even looks like it may not be above the flood rim of the sink. Might be though!

P2902.4 Protection of potable water outlets.

Potable water
openings and outlets shall be protected by an air gap, reduced
pressure principle backflow preventer with atmospheric vent,
atmospheric-type vacuum breaker, pressure-type vacuum
breaker or hose connection backflow preventer.

Originally Posted by Wayne Carlisle

On a lot of laundry sinks people attach hoses to help spray of different things. They could have the hose laying in the sink filling it up for something when the washing machine in drain cycle. Main break down the street and you have back siphonage....= contamination of the potable water supply. ..

That I understand. But that would happen even without the washer discharging into the sink. I thought you were suggesting water in the sink could back up into the potable supply by way of the washer drain hose.

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I thought you were suggesting water in the sink could back up into the potable supply by way of the washer drain hose.

John,

Not with that hole through the side of the sink.

my only guess is that they did not want the lint going down the drain...

One of my thoughts did include the washer drain. The water that could be drained in there could have bleach, die, grease or whatever.

Also with the drain through the side like that you wouldn't get the direct hit of the flow of water to the p-trap like if it were in a washer box. I think the water would drain slower through the sink...maybe not though!

Wayne

Is the house on septic? All the lint going into a septic system may be the reason smarty pants came up with that idea.
If it were an older house I would say that he wanted it to drain into the drywell instead of the septic also but 2001, no drywell for laundry applications.

Well they do make a fitting that is legal in most places that you can drill a hole and install. Its made by Mustee called a Handiflo Fitting. Its the first item on page two of this pdf http://www.mustee.com/pdf/utilitub/acc.pdf I also included photos for those of you that may have troubles with PDF files online. There is Utility sinks that have these fittings built in as well. Some even have the Suds-Saver option which requires you to have a washing machine with that option to take advantage of this feature.

Quick question, how many washing machines on the first floor that did not have a washing machine pan under it? I have been getting a lot of calls for me to install them on homes that recently went on market.

Borrowing Jerome's thread for a moment:

Washer standpipe..

Just for my own education :

1) What's the right way to plumb this

2) What the heck is the right way to fix this?

Originally Posted by Michael Thomas

Borrowing Jerome's thread for a moment:

Washer standpipe..

Just for my own education :

1) What's the right way to plumb this

2) What the heck is the right way to fix this?

Wow what a hack job on them joists. Well for the plumbing part Chicago does not allow PVC piping in most cases. I know they changed some of their rules on the newest update on their code. Second Not seeing all of the PVC piping I can not tell you if it is properly vented, and the biggest offense that is visible is the S-trap. Your best bet is to call a plumber to redo the trap into a P-trap and properly vent the line. Otherwise I could spend half the day trying to explain how to fix the offending S-trap. There is way to much unknown of this plumbing system at this time. For example is that a clean out at the end of that picture, how does the horizontal line tie into the drainage system. Is there room to lower the horizontal line below the water lines? etc ... I do know a great plumber just click the link in my sig *grins*

Originally Posted by Michael Thomas

1) What's the right way to plumb this

Referring to the first photo, right?

As Ron said, vent it, make it not an 'S' strap.

The best way to do that is to lower that horizontal PVC line, lower it enough so it also clears those whacked out joists.

That will also mean lowering the-replaced-S-trap-with-the-now-proper-P-trap so the 'P' trap drains into the horizontal line properly and adding in a vent somewhere nearby. the far end of that PVC line looks like it has a cleanout fitting glued on it, with something (a vent? metal duct?) too close behind it to allow for proper access to the cleanout.

From the 2006 IRC.

P3005.1.5 Dead ends. Dead ends shall be prohibited except where necessary to extend a cleanout or as an approved part of a rough-in more than 2 feet (610 mm) in length.

P3005.2.5 Accessibility. Cleanouts shall be accessible. Minimum clearance in front of cleanouts shall be 18 inches (457 mm) on 3-inch (76 mm) and larger pipes, and 12 inches (305 mm) on smaller pipes. Concealed cleanouts shall be provided with access of sufficient size to permit removal of the cleanout plug and rodding of the system. Cleanout plugs shall not be concealed by permanent finishing material.

-------------------------------------

2) What the heck is the right way to fix this?

Referring to the second photo, right?

By relocating the tie-in to the horizontal sewer line to the near side of the joist in the photo, then adding a new joist full length alongside the whacked up joist from bearing to bearing.

the code i enforce requires the washing machine trap to be located 6"to 18" above the floor. complete tear out of this hack job required with structural repairs made as necessary.