Thread: Gas Water heater venting

Does anybody know if this vent system looks to code?
Obviously the water heater needs to be replaced but I don't know if the vent system needs to be alterted.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Mike

Smartsville, CA

Similar Threads:

• ABS Flue Pipe on LP Water Heater
• Tankless water heater comment
• Water Heater Location
• Water heater Question
• Reverse plumbing to water heater

Originally Posted by Michael Daugherty

but I don't know if the vent system needs to be alterted.

Hard to tell if that is single wall or B vent from the photo, but it looks like single wall.

Regardless, it is all wrong.

The vent is wrong (if single wall as it looks to be).

The flashing is wrong.

The cap is wrong.

The vent is not supported properly and is bending at the joint.

The vent is within 8 feet of that side wall and is not 2 feet higher than it.

The enclosure is all wrong.

The plumbing lines are not insulated and that is all wrong.

The ... is all wrong. (The list is almost endless.)

Jerry,

Would that swamp cooler be a bit too close to this water flue? We don't have those in our area, but I'm curious.

rick

That water heater is uglier than my first wife in a bad mood.

Jerry
As usual, you are being hyper-critical, the material used for the TPR drain line looks to be acceptable.

Mike, Bradford White makes a direct vent water heater that MAY fit in that coffin and so does Rinnai. The Rinnai continuum requires electricity but can be installed externally on a home. Bradford White does not require a vertical termination, can be terminated horizontally does not use air from the conditioned space and does not require electricity. That is one ugly install Jack

Holy Miami. I would suggest installing a NG on-demand unit. The whole closet could be removed. I have to agree that it is "all wrong" and "ugly". The TPR valve piping terminates too high above the ground (though it is nice to see that they did run it to the exterior of the closet). The dry vegetation adds a nice touch.

I'm not sure what that other vent is on the upper roof, but it sure don't look good either.

Obviously not a bank repo, the water heater would have been spray painted!

Whats the qualifications for living in this Smartsville? How did this guy make in there or was he grandfathered?

This house is located in Lincoln, Ca not Smartsville. I have no clue how this waterheater ever passed any inspection. Anyway I was looking for some solutions to the venting. Someone mentioned installing an electric unit. Perhaps that is what I'll do. Thank you all for your humourous and informative replys.

Mike

Have a qualified technician remove this mess and install a listed B-vent properly sized and supported. Must be B-vent all the way down to the appliance collar. Looks like it will need more makeup air. Seismic straps? Gas line breakaway?
When replacing the WH, I would check with the mfr. to see if it is listed for use in an unconditioned space. Might consider a power vented model or Through the Wall. Also, check your clearances around the WH. You may not be able to put anything in that small closet.
Fire hazard with the weeds and door open. Aside from burning down the house, could start a wildfire.

Can you comment on the other vent shown in the roof?
HTH,
Bob

Thanks,

The other vent you are seeing is the range hood and a wall heater vent.

I'm assuming the B vent needs to be 2' above a ridgeline 10 horizontal? What's your take on that?

Mike

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

...

The vent is within 8 feet of that side wall and is not 2 feet higher than it...

I'm not Jerry Peck and I don't play him on the world wide web.

From the looks of all the rust the draft hood was performing it's design intent rather well.

IN MY AREA SHOULD HIGH AND LOW VENTS FOR MAKE UP AIR INSTALL B VENT EXTEND 3 FT ABOVE ROOF LINE AND TRV DRAIN SHOULD 3/4'' NO THREADS AT END RUN 6'' FROM FLOOR

Where is your area?