Thread: Water Heater pan & T & P Valve drains.

I have a little laundry room with a washer, dryer & a 40 gallon hot water heater. The hot water heater has been functioning for 2 years. I am trying to bring it up to code.
1) Can someone please tell lme if I can run a pipe from my pressure valve to inside my overflow pan?
2) Does the material have to be copper?
3) Since the washer has a 2" pvc drain, can I tie into that for the pan drain?

I would appreciate any advise. My clothes are piling up. I removed the drywall & had to turn off the gas.

Thanks,

Bill

Similar Threads:

• ABS Flue Pipe on LP Water Heater
• Air Admitance Valve in Manufactured Home
• Tankless water heater comment
• Water heater Question
• Reverse plumbing to water heater

Originally Posted by Bill Leonard

I have a little laundry room with a washer, dryer & a 40 gallon hot water heater. The hot water heater has been functioning for 2 years. I am trying to bring it up to code.
1) Can someone please tell lme if I can run a pipe from my pressure valve to inside my overflow pan?
2) Does the material have to be copper?
3) Since the washer has a 2" pvc drain, can I tie into that for the pan drain?

I would appreciate any advise. My clothes are piling up. I removed the drywall & had to turn off the gas.

Thanks,

Bill

You really need to check and find out what your local authority requires.

The material for the TPR line can be copper, CPVC, galvanized pipe or PEX pipe. It can not be smaller than the valve outlet and it can not have threads on the end of the pipe. The requirements might even be listed on the water heater.

No, you can not tie it into the washer drain line.

Just as Scott said, you have to see what you local code requires. best to call your building department at your city hall and speak to the plumbing inspector. Here in Illinois the relief pipe must be metal, can be copper or galvanized, and can not have any threads on the end. Also here in Illinois it can not discharge into the safety pan.

I am glad that you want to bring this up to code. I help out on many DIY forums where the home owners always say they do not care about the code, they want to do it their own way.

In my neck of the woods, No, no and no.

The T&P should not drain into the pan -- that's really intended more for small leaks that the heater will eventually develop. If the T&P opens fully, not just a small trickle, it'll hit that pan and splash everywhere. The T&P should drain into an indirect waste via an air gap -- that is, the T&P discharge pipe comes down, there's an 1.5" gap, then there's a larger pipe that it drains into. That pipe then needs to continue down and out of the house somewhere, similar to the way your AC condensate drains would. The pan should also drain out in a similar way. No, unfortunately you're not allowed to tie it into the washer drain.


Now that I've said that, 40 others will tell you why I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by Joshua Hardesty

In my neck of the woods, No, no and no.

The T&P should not drain into the pan -- that's really intended more for small leaks that the heater will eventually develop. If the T&P opens fully, not just a small trickle, it'll hit that pan and splash everywhere. The T&P should drain into an indirect waste via an air gap -- that is, the T&P discharge pipe comes down, there's an 1.5" gap, then there's a larger pipe that it drains into. That pipe then needs to continue down and out of the house somewhere, similar to the way your AC condensate drains would. The pan should also drain out in a similar way. No, unfortunately you're not allowed to tie it into the washer drain.


Now that I've said that, 40 others will tell you why I'm wrong.

Joshua,

Except that I believe the question was asking if "code" allows it, and "code" does allow it.

I wish "code" did not allow it as I agree with you that "No, no and no." it should not be done and the pan is not intended for that use.

Keep in mind that if the pan is a plastic pan the pan needs to be made of material suitable for use as water distribution pipe in Table P2904.5 of the IRC.

If the pan is an ABS pan, then the T&P is simply not allowed to discharge to the pan anyway.

Also, the drain line from the pan must also be of material listed in Table 2904.5 or the pan and drain line is not allowed to be used for the T&P discharge.

Originally Posted by Joshua Hardesty

In my neck of the woods, No, no and no.

The T&P should not drain into the pan -- that's really intended more for small leaks that the heater will eventually develop. If the T&P opens fully, not just a small trickle, it'll hit that pan and splash everywhere. The T&P should drain into an indirect waste via an air gap -- that is, the T&P discharge pipe comes down, there's an 1.5" gap, then there's a larger pipe that it drains into. That pipe then needs to continue down and out of the house somewhere, similar to the way your AC condensate drains would. The pan should also drain out in a similar way. No, unfortunately you're not allowed to tie it into the washer drain.


Now that I've said that, 40 others will tell you why I'm wrong.

Yep Josh I couldn’t hold myself back, sorry Bro.

It appears that Bill is located in Southern California. All plumbing in California is regulated under the California Plumbing code which is based on the Uniform Plumbing code. Section 505.4 and 505.5 addresses Presser and Temperature limiting devices which basically says that the T&P shall be installed per the manufactures listing. Section 508.5 prohibits discharge into water heater pan.

Here is part of the listing for a Watts T&P
WARNING: To avoid water damage or scalding due to valve operation, discharge line must be connected to valve outlet and run to a safe place of disposal. Discharge line must be as short as possible and be the same size as the valve discharge connection throughout its entire length. Discharge line must pitch downward from the valve and terminate at least 6" (152mm) above a drain where any discharge will be clearly visible. The discharge line shall terminate plain, not threaded. Discharge line material must conform to local plumbing codes or ASME requirements. Excessive length over 30' (9.14m), or use of more than four elbows or reducing discharge line size will cause a restriction and reduce the discharge capacity of the valve.

Furthermore, and I don’t know why they moved it, in section 608.5 of the CPC, requires that relief valves located in a building to be not smaller than the valve outlet, out of galvanized steel, copper, CPVC or other listed materials. Tubing shall extend outside the building not more than 2ft or less than 6in above grade with the discharge pointing downward. Piping or tubing shall not have any sags or traps to prevent the discharge water from being trapped, so it has to have a positive slope to the outside. A relief drain shall not terminate into a building crawl space.

The TPRV is rated at 210 degrees and 150 PSI. Do you want that going off into a 2 inch deep W/H drain pan at full force? I doubt it! Route it outside properly.
Termination is plain end, no closer than 6 inches nor more than 24 inches from the ground, pointing down.

Originally Posted by Dana Bostick

Termination is plain end, no closer than 6 inches nor more than 24 inches from the ground, pointing down.

"nor more than 24 inches from the ground"

Where is that from?

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

"nor more than 24 inches from the ground"

Where is that from?

UPC/ CPC 608.5