Thread: lead service entry pipe

hey all

first time i have seen thi--Denver co home--1890--remodeled and the service entry pipe was lead..did a web search to city of denver and they said you can put a filter sysytem on this to remedy--say what--would you test another filter in your house--owners don't even change e-furnace filters--anyone seen this before

thanks

cvf

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Old lead water service lines are somewhat common around here. They are not ideal by any means but they are what they are. The buyers could either have a filtering system installed like you said or have the line replaced to the tune of a $1,500 starting price. Depending upon how much excavation needs to be done to make sure the entire lead line is removed, it could get pricey.

Yep.

Just for your specific finding:

Lead & Copper | Denver Water

See especially last heading (Cutting into Lead Service Lines) on the page:

Originally Posted by DenverWater.org

In many older homes, the service line that connects your home to the water main in the street is made of lead. This service line is the responsibility of the property owner


The naturally occurring minerals in Denver’s source water coat the inside of the pipe and isolate the lead from contact with drinking water. If this coating is disturbed or the service line is cut, customers can be exposed to elevated lead levels.

Currently, Denver Water and its contractors cut or disturb lead service lines in the course of laying new pipe or repairing leaks. It is standard practice for Denver Water or its contractors to replace the lead service line with copper from the water main to the meter or the curb stop if the property has an inside setting (see illustrations Homeowner Responsibility | Denver Water
).

Denver Water leaves notification for homeowners whose lead service lines were cut in the course of repairs or construction. The notification provides the following tips on how to decrease the potential exposure to possible elevated lead levels:

• Run the cold water in your bathtubs/showers, utility sink and outdoor hose spigots for five minutes.
• Remove the aerators or screens on your kitchen and bathroom faucets and run the cold water for five additional minutes.
• Whenever the water line sits unused for more than a few hours, run the cold water until it is noticeably cooler.

You might also direct your clients to The "Homeowners responsibility" page Service lines, etc. diagrams: Homeowner Responsibility | Denver Water

You were participating on a discussion (copper or galvanized?) which included lead service connections about two weeks ago.

I have seen where plumbers can now replace old pipes with out excavation. they use tools to follow and split the old pipe and install the new one all at the same time. saves on costs and lots of digging

When I had the lead service replaced with 3/4" copper at my house 8-9 years ago, it cost around $ 3,000. The city had to come out and re-tap the main.
I run into lead lines several times a year during inspections.

Originally Posted by John Arnold

When I had the lead service replaced with 3/4" copper at my house 8-9 years ago, it cost around $ 3,000. The city had to come out and re-tap the main.
I run into lead lines several times a year during inspections.

What part of the $3,000 did the city get?

Originally Posted by David Garton

What part of the $3,000 did the city get?

I have no idea. That was the full amount I paid to the plumber.

Originally Posted by Bill Hetner

I have seen where plumbers can now replace old pipes with out excavation. they use tools to follow and split the old pipe and install the new one all at the same time. saves on costs and lots of digging

Called "pipe bursting".

Trenchless Pipe Bursting - YouTube

Pipebursting

I live in the land of lead services so a couple observations. These may or may not be applicable to whatever goes on in Denver.
- The clamp to the right of the lead ball is a repair clamp so the lead line is probably damaged. I would suggest proper repair
- The old valve looks like and old gas valve. Regardless those things are never full port so water flow is restricted
- Obviously then the reduced galvanized to copper connection should be fixed
- The whole thing looks like either a non plumper or rip off plumber did the job. I'm guessing a rip off plumper since the copper joints look wiped
The correct method (around here) would be to cut the lead behind the damage, install a Ford fitting, a section of full size copper pipe and then a full port valve. After that its house plumbing.
For a guy who knows what he's doing its an easy 2 hour job.

Thanks Jerry for the great links.

Thanks for the link Jerry.
BTW, what is it with the male brain that likes watching this stuff ?
Just couldn't stop watching the pipe penetrating and stuffing

FWIW: Markus Kellor is spot on with his appreciation except for the lead wiping bit. Lead wiping requires a bit of skill, and i'd suggest that all between the wiped joint and the new valve came later - the repair fitting also looks recent.

Perhaps it's not the Inspector's business, but way to go would be to abandon the lead from the new 3/4" valve out to the meter, and trench in a new 3//4" water service in an appropriate material. In Europe, the UK in particular, lead has been outlawed for 30 years - it's proven bad news, especially for infants.

Trenchless pipe installations that i was involved in only burst thro sewage laterals 4 -6". I never encountered water or gas service burst-outs. However, water may be snaked thro an abandoned larger diameter pipe with the PI's permission. I've heard claims of tieing a service line on to an in-situ line and pulling it thro on the coat tails of the old service. Like snaking elec. cable. However, I doubt such claims.