Thread: weeping tile at walkout basement

I am building a new house and have weeping tile installed around foundation. However, the walkout is deeper then other place so there likely will be a water pool. What to do to deal with the water at walkout area where is ~4' deeper?

thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted by Gerry Wang

I am building a new house and have weeping tile installed around foundation. However, the walkout is deeper then other place so there likely will be a water pool. What to do to deal with the water at walkout area where is ~4' deeper?

thanks in advance.

If you are building a new house in a "pool" you have bigger grading problems to consider.

Originally Posted by Gerry Wang

I am building a new house and have weeping tile installed around foundation. However, the walkout is deeper then other place so there likely will be a water pool. What to do to deal with the water at walkout area where is ~4' deeper?

thanks in advance.

That is a poor design! You need a drain to get rid of the water.

Your post indicates that you already know there is a problem. It will take more than a 1-2 sentence description to design a fix. But based upon the information you have provided, my suggestion is to call in an engineer NOW to evaluate what is going on and design whatever is necessary to resolve the anticipated problem.

Whatever the cost, I assure you it will cost less to do it now than to wait until the construction is complete.

What is the typical solution for walkout basement? the walkout area is only for stairs and small, but is 4' deeper than the house footing. A step footing is used there.

Originally Posted by Gerry Wang

What is the typical solution for walkout basement? the walkout area is only for stairs and small, but is 4' deeper than the house footing. A step footing is used there.

If it is a landing with stairs that go up 4' to ground level then it needs a drain at the bottom in the landing.

I have a drain there so it should be OK. I was worrying about there because I can put weeping tile around the house but not the walkout area due to the step footing.
My foundation contractor suggested me to put more crashed stone there to let water go down to the footing at walkout area but I feel that will create a pond there. I think I need to back fill with soil so not much water will go down there. It is better to let water to to the weeping tile then sum pump - and this maybe the only option for the extra water if no path to go down to walkout footing.

Originally Posted by Scott Patterson

If it is a landing with stairs that go up 4' to ground level then it needs a drain at the bottom in the landing.

Your basement floor is below the perimeter drain system? That is trouble. You can not rely on a sump pump to keep your basement dry when power is knocked out for days. Plan for weather extremes now while you can.
I know you need a deep foundation in Ontario. That is why so many houses have basements. Is this building site on a steep slope? Why the stepped footing? Just a room for the furnace?
The stairwell can be drained to a french drain in the back yard if it is below the city storm drain.
I would not do it that way myself. In my rainy climate, we would go with a three foot crawlspace rather than dig a deep water hole under the house. The furnace goes in there on its side.
What did the municipal inspector say?

"Weeping tile" is the oldtimer's term for perimeter drains. Perforated PVC pipe for the footings, solid PVC for the storm drains, which can be shallower, but not connected.
Don't use Big O ribbed black plastic pipe. It won't lay straight and it can collapse.

Basement floor is above the perimeter drain system, so is the basement walkout floor, but the footing for basement walkout is lower. That is required by the code.
As Scott mentioned, a drain will do the work there. Logically thinking, I agree. Will see what the inspector say.

Originally Posted by John Kogel

Your basement floor is below the perimeter drain system? That is trouble. You can not rely on a sump pump to keep your basement dry when power is knocked out for days. Plan for weather extremes now while you can.
I know you need a deep foundation in Ontario. That is why so many houses have basements. Is this building site on a steep slope? Why the stepped footing? Just a room for the furnace?
The stairwell can be drained to a french drain in the back yard if it is below the city storm drain.
I would not do it that way myself. In my rainy climate, we would go with a three foot crawlspace rather than dig a deep water hole under the house. The furnace goes in there on its side.
What did the municipal inspector say?

"Weeping tile" is the oldtimer's term for perimeter drains. Perforated PVC pipe for the footings, solid PVC for the storm drains, which can be shallower, but not connected.
Don't use Big O ribbed black plastic pipe. It won't lay straight and it can collapse.

Originally Posted by Gerry Wang

I am building a new house and have weeping tile installed around foundation. However, the walkout is deeper then other place so there likely will be a water pool. What to do to deal with the water at walkout area where is ~4' deeper?

thanks in advance.

The other concern is resolving the issue of "frost penetration" below the walkout floor well. There are other acceptable "alternative" design solutions that can be utilized if the builder is familiar with the building code.

In my opinion - The best place for the location of the perimeter drainage is below the slab and/or as close as possible to the bottom of the main house footings.

I also subscribe in the belief that it's more practical to provide both an interior and exterior drainage sustem, at the time of construction as a backup plan. But that's just me - from a building designers perspective.

Here are two types of basement entries. Note the drain and insulation requirements dependent on type of entry.

Have seen Form-A-Drain used for foundation/basement drainage.
Form-A-Drain - CertainTeed

If your drain is below the basement floor your fine. Just because it is called a foundation drain doesn't mean you have to drop it to your footing. The footing is dropped for frost not water. It does not hurt the footing to stay moist or wet. You want to keep any water lower than the basement floor. If you have a walkout, running the drain out to daylight is a good method. Just make sure you have pitch all the way on the pipe.

I was reading the questions about the weeping tile detail at the basement walkout and after registering I took a look at your details. I still don't understand what happened to the weeping tile at the walkout area. Further, your detail shows connecting the outside floor drain to the inside floor drainage system, some municipalities might not allow this because this drainage will add more water to the existing system thus causing problems down the road. I am really interested in knowing the correct way of doing the weeping tile at the walkout because any standing water will multiply the frost problems.

I believe they terminate the drainage tile on either side of the bulkheads (dead end them).
The drain can also flow to a sump pump to exterior discharge and /or municipal drain. I don't see the volume of water as being overly critical, but for my liking I would install a covered entry way.

Originally Posted by Raymond Wand

Here are two types of basement entries. Note the drain and insulation requirements dependent on type of entry.

What prevents cold air from entering the outside drain and coming into the building?

I would continue the perimeter drain(s) (weeping tile) at the same elevation regardless of the fact the the footing is deeper at the walkout. Any water accumulating under the slab(s) will be collected in the drain(s) and drain to daylight or to a sump pump pit. That is typical practice in my area.

Put the interior floor drain on the other side of the trap.