Low water flow at fixtures - InspectionNews

imported_John Smith · #1 (**permalink**) 01-13-2008, 06:13 AM

I recently did an inspection on a 2 year old, 3 story townhome with copper plumbing. Water pressure at hose bibs was ~65 psig. The flow rate at the tub in the 2nd and 3rd floor bathrooms was just slightly > than 2 gpm. My understanding is that flow should be a least 4 gpm at bathtubs. Any suggestions on how this individual can get the flow increased to these areas?

Nick Ostrowski · #2 (**permalink**) 01-13-2008, 06:43 AM

John, did you check to see if the shut-off valves on the water supply lines to the tubs were totally open?

Dom D'Agostino · #3 (**permalink**) 01-13-2008, 08:47 AM

Most modern shower and bath valves have flow reducing devices to provide around 2 GPM. There may not be anything wrong.

Rick Hurst · #4 (**permalink**) 01-13-2008, 10:32 AM

If the faucet handles are the single lever type and the house has been vacant for a while, you probably have some sediment in the valve restricting the faucet to open completely.

rick

imported_John Smith · #5 (**permalink**) 01-13-2008, 12:17 PM

Ill respond to everyone that responded to my original post.

Rick, you maybe on to something. The house has been vacant for a while. It was a foreclosure (seems I have been doing a lot of them lately). Do you think there is an easy way to clean it out?

Dom, Im curious about your statement regarding the flow reducing devices. Seems odd IRC requires 4 gpm, but you could have a flow reducing device to get it to 2 gpm.

Nick, I cant remember ever seeing a shut off valve in Houston on bath tubs. Typically they don't even put access panels behind the tubs/showers.

Lee Nettnin · #6 (**permalink**) 01-13-2008, 12:24 PM

I am not familiar with your area, but where I am,it is common to see pressure reducing valves on the line just after the water meter. The reducing valve sometimes has a screen on it and hard water will clog the screen, or the pressure reducer needs an adjustment or replacement. The outside water bibs are usually connected to the main line before the reducer to allow full pressure in the outside lines.

Rick Hurst · #7 (**permalink**) 01-13-2008, 01:35 PM

John,

You can remove the handle by removing the hex screw on the bottom.

Then you'll see a small screw head on the end of the cartridge. Turn the brass piece by hand to the hot side. You can tap on the end of the screw lightly and it will shake free the sediment on it which is prevent it to open properly.

rick