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I recently bought/built a new modular home and moved in in september. In January, I noticed a bag that I place up there was soaking wet. wev discovered water dripping from under the attic floor between the floor and 2nd story ceiling. Does anyone know what caused this and what I should do about it. I have my own ideas but would love any professional insights. Thanks!

Somethings leaking
Go in the attic and see what it is and fix it.

Nothings leaking. No a/c, no plumbing. Brand new house. Water appears uniformly on underside of attic floor

Give us as much information as possible so we don't have to play "20 questions'!
Is the attic ventilated? What do you mean by 2 story modular home (I've never seen one I guess). Is there a space between the attic floor and 2nd story ceiling? Is the water dripping from the ceiling? Is the ceiling the attic floor? Do you have air conditioning and is it on? Is there plumbing in the attic? Is the attic accessible? Is there insulation? Is it wet? Is there a warranty?
(OK, I can't think of 20).
You don't really need to answer all these questions, just give us a better idea of what you are seeing.

Originally Posted by Haixia tao

I recently bought/built a new modular home and moved in in september. In January, I noticed a bag that I place up there was soaking wet. wev discovered water dripping from under the attic floor between the floor and 2nd story ceiling. Does anyone know what caused this and what I should do about it. I have my own ideas but would love any professional insights. Thanks!

Most likely a roof issue. Modular homes usually come in three sections they are joined and then the roof needs to be properly sealed. Many times it is not and then you have leaks that show up as you are describing. Call the builder or the manufacturer of the home. You have a problem that needs to be addressed ASAP.

Would have started a "new thread" but there is no "new thread" icon as indicated by the instructions.

I'm looking for guidance on what is required in Florida for a DIY reroof. My roof is over 20 years old, has a couple "soft spots", the shingles are on their last legs and I need a whole new roof (shingles) with spot repair of the OSB. (From what I've seen, a half dozen sheets ought to do it.)

The first couple roofing contractor quotes I got sent me into sticker shock. A little research indicates that I can probably do the job myself for less than half the prices I've been quoted. Question is: What sort of hoops do I have to jump through to keep the government and the insurance company happy?

I live in central Florida (a few miles NE of Orlando). Don't have to deal with any HOA. I plan on replacing the damaged areas with the same OSB as the rest of the roof, using long-life architectural shingles and using the Grace underlayment instead of tar paper (due to reports of greater strength, durability, wind resistance, etc.) and plan to both read and follow the specific instructions for the materials used. (What a shock, eh?)

I will have the assistance of two people who have done roofing before - but want to ensure that there are no grounds for insurance or government to hassle me after the fact.

Suggestions? Recommendations? Any place I can find a checklist of recommended roofing standards? Do I have to use longer nails now? Are plastic tab nails (versus staples) required for underlayment? Any particular "gotchas" that you can think of?

Thanks in advance.

Apply for a permit, and follow the inspection process by the County (or City/Township).

Apply as Owner/Builder, and pay attention to the rules. Nailing schedules have changed, and you have to re-nail the deck & use cap nails for the underlayment. The attached forms show the schedules.

They will want to see the dry-in before you shingle. They will want proof of re-nailing the sheathing (most of the building depts. will accept photos of the sheathing before the felt is applied to show the nailing pattern, but check or ask first. They might want to see it in-progress). If the drip edge isn’t being replaced, they will want to know “why”. Any new item (off-ridge vent, ridge vent, skylight, sun tube, etc.) will need Product Approval paperwork for FBC acceptance. Watch the details, sealing the felt to the metal, starter course, valleys, flashings, etc.

Get your Final Inspection from the Building Department, it’s the only proof the Insurance Companies accept. (It shows up on-line in our area so they can check it themselves.)


Owner /Builder Form

Orange County Building Dept

Seminole County Re-roof Supplement

Don't under estimate the amount of time (and money) it will take to do it right.

Dom.

I*am such a DIY wanna be.... And this is my first experience with plumbing. *I had heard that building a house would cause a divorce, but thought our marriage was strong enough to withstand the stressors. But it took our marriage with only minor cracks into an earthquake demolition state. So, I * *now have ex husband, a house, and I want to make a space for housemates. Without my former "master of all things house related " I ask for your advice: (......stay tuned for my questions about the maintaining Siemanns *hot water heating system....).....*

When we planned our handmade house, we thought we might want a bath on the 3rd floor, which housed only a pool table. *So we plumbed to later add a bath on this floor.
I've mastered how to build a shower ...put in all the plumbing and just finished tiling....
The shower is *wet vented to toilet.

*I'm *planning to add Oatey AAV s:*
One for for lav sink,*
One each for each double bowl kitchen sink, connected with anwye with clean out opening.
***
There is a stack vented through roof right there. I will connect 3rd floor toilet and shower to it. This roof stack vent is Also connected to first and second floor baths. I will connect the lav and double kitchen sinks to this drain line. So I will drain the lav and kitchen sinks in the same line as toilet and shower.

:
Kitchen double bowl sink:*
Waste will go from double kitchen sink , collect lav sink waste with a wye, then wye into shower which collects toilet waste, and then heads *down to septic tank.

My questions:
1 OateyAAV each with 4.5'inch built in rise from weir form each sink...good idea?

Means kitchen sink bowls each have an Oatey with built in 4.5 inch rise from outside circumference of weir waste vent arm. * Is this ok?

Should all the Oatey AAVs have the same horizontal level?
Like, should the lav, about 8 ft away downstream have the Oatey AAV get air at the same horizontal height as the kitchen Oatey AAVs??*

If so, to take into account the drop of 1/4 inch vertical per foot for the waste line? Do I make the kitchen drain tail pipes longer to make this happen?*

And, will then first and second floor sinks cause positive pressure on the 3 3rd floor Oateys or siphon the 3 p traps (1 lav, double sinks in kitchen)?

the know it all (in a positive way) plumber who became our local DIY guru, and who totally runs home depot, gave me this equip for the kitchn sink bowls: a waste wye with clean out. *So I think its meant to give each sink with a p trap, an Oatey AAV, and then seperately connect at the wye with clean out opening (3 openings, actually in the black waste connection), rather than connect the 2 sink bowls with a horizontal pipe, which is what my first floor kitchen sink has.*

The Oateys are a fixed height off the waste line...would anyone recommend that I cut into their upright connection pipe and glue in an extension, to make them taller?

Anything else I should consider ?

Your replies are welcome!

question, my home was built in 2005 with a post tension slab. 6 years later i find a couple of areas where my tile seperated and raised up 6 inches like a tepee! no cracks in the slab. is it true that a post tension slab can have some shrinkage within the first five years and if so is that what caused this? They used thinset mortar should they have used a flexible type and will that fix my tile problem. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Hugh Kemp Texas

Hello! I am purchasing a condo that occupies the 2nd and 3rd floor unit of a condo. There are two units below that are side by side mirrors of each other. The inspector noted deflection of the 3rd floor and recommended evaluation by a structural engineer. The engineer's inspections stated the following:

Based upon conditions observed, it is apparent that the drop framed beam at the second floor living room ceiling is inadequate to properly support the live and dead loads imposed by the structure above. The beam must be reinforced as necessary to properly carry the imposed loads. In addition to reinforcement, the beam should be jacked to a level plane prior to installation of reinforcing members. Without reinforcement, it is my opinion that creep deformation/deflection will continue, resulting in greater and more perceptible deflection of the beam and worsening slope to the floor above.



As noted previously, the structural members discussed are located at the ceiling level within the second floor level of the structure. Jacking to a level plane can be accomplished, but will require confirmation that solid support exists below to jack against. Accordingly, structure must be confirmed at both the first floor level and foundation level adequate to resist the jacking forces. If adequate structural support to resist jacking forces does not currently exist, temporary support may be required.

The sellers are willing to pay for the repairs but still would like to go to settlement and put the repair money plus some additional funds in escrow. My question is: Should I go this route or insist that closing be pushed back for weeks until the engineer drawings can be drawn up permit paperwork gets completed and the work gets scheduled, completed and inspected? Also, what are the potential issues that could arise from correcting this issue? I sort of feel that If I settle and allow the repair money to be held in escrow that I am taking a huge risk in case something happens during repair. Are my concerns justified or am I unnecessarily over concerned?

I need to decide because Settlement is quickly approaching and if I insist on pushing back to the completion of repairs the deal may not happen.


Thanks in advance for your input.


Dan

Find a better building to buy in to.

The tenants/owners have been ignoring a serious structural flaw. Expect more of the same for years to come. Run now while it is still an option.

What assurance is there that the anticipated repair will be covered by the money left behind by the sellers. For what you are stating you may have future issues when the units below have to repair their beams. Meaning, you jack and straighten your units then the units below jack and straighten theirs. Then you now find your unit is all out of plumb and square. Know all of the potential problem, even the out in left field possibilities, before you take this on..... Probably best to walk away since you can not control the rest of the building.

Run Forest, Run!

This is not something I would want to guess about.
Sure it can be fixed but will there be enough money, will the unit below be damaged, will the contractors insurance cover damages if he screws up and someone below gets injured? What else was not properly engineered when the structure was build? Too many questions and not enough money to cover all the possibilities.

The ridge vent slot in my new roof looks like it was cut too long. I have a hip roof and the manufacturer's spec [GAF] say the slot should end 12" from the intersection of the hip and ridge.

The roofers covered the slot with the ridge vent and ridge shingles and covered over the intersection so that the ridge vent sort of sticks up at both ends of the roof line.

Aside from it not looking good [which I can live with] I'm concerned that it might cause problems with leaking or some other problem I haven't thought of yet.

Can anyone tell me if this needs to be corrected or if it's something that only looks off but isn't going to cause any problems for me in the future?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Dee Davis

The ridge vent slot in my new roof looks like it was cut too long. I have a hip roof and the manufacturer's spec [GAF] say the slot should end 12" from the intersection of the hip and ridge.

The roofers covered the slot with the ridge vent and ridge shingles and covered over the intersection so that the ridge vent sort of sticks up at both ends of the roof line.

Aside from it not looking good [which I can live with] I'm concerned that it might cause problems with leaking or some other problem I haven't thought of yet.

Can anyone tell me if this needs to be corrected or if it's something that only looks off but isn't going to cause any problems for me in the future?

Thanks!

Dee Davis,

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Thank you.

Hi,

I have a question on the below code:


SPECIAL FUEL-BURNING EQUIPMENT
SECTION M1901
RANGES AND OVENS
M1901.1 Clearances.


Freestanding or built-in ranges shall
have a vertical clearance above the cooking top of not less than
30 inches (762 mm) to unprotected combustible material.
Reduced clearances are permitted in accordance with the listing
and labeling of the range hoods or appliances.

How will I know whether my appliances are listed and labeled?.. My model number for microwave is PNM1971SRSS GE Profile. I called the customer service and asked them they said they are listed by Underwriters Laboratories.

The 30" clearance is too high to reach for me and I don't want to change my layout too. Please help.

Originally Posted by Bhargavi Bitla

Hi,

I have a question on the below code:


SPECIAL FUEL-BURNING EQUIPMENT
SECTION M1901
RANGES AND OVENS
M1901.1 Clearances.


Freestanding or built-in ranges shall
have a vertical clearance above the cooking top of not less than
30 inches (762 mm) to unprotected combustible material.
Reduced clearances are permitted in accordance with the listing
and labeling of the range hoods or appliances.

How will I know whether my appliances are listed and labeled?.. My model number for microwave is PNM1971SRSS GE Profile. I called the customer service and asked them they said they are listed by Underwriters Laboratories.

The 30" clearance is too high to reach for me and I don't want to change my layout too. Please help.

The 30" clearance is measured from the cooktop to the underside of the cabinet above the cooktop. This is not 30" between the stove and the bottom of the MW.
This is a link the the installation instructions
http://products.geappliances.com/Mar...49-40641-2.pdf
The information you are looking for is on page 7

Also note there is a special restriction if using a cooktop or range with total BTU output of >66000
Hope this helps

Originally Posted by Rick Cantrell

The 30" clearance is measured from the cooktop to the underside of the cabinet above the cooktop. This is not 30" between the stove and the bottom of the MW.
This is a link the the installation instructions
http://products.geappliances.com/Mar...49-40641-2.pdf
The information you are looking for is on page 7

Also note there is a special restriction if using a cooktop or range with total BTU output of >66000
Hope this helps

Thanks for your response.

Yeah I understand that it is mentioned in the installation instructions. But my Builder says that it should be 30" from below the microwave to cook top since it is not labeled.. he wants the product to be listed as well as labeled.

I want to know the difference between listed and labeled.

Originally Posted by Bhargavi Bitla

Thanks for your response.

Yeah I understand that it is mentioned in the installation instructions. But my Builder says that it should be 30" from below the microwave to cook top since it is not labeled.. he wants the product to be listed as well as labeled.

I want to know the difference between listed and labeled.

Yes, it is UL LISTED (when installed as instructed)
and it will have the UL label on it somewhere, making it LABELED

Originally Posted by Rick Cantrell

Yes, it is UL LISTED (when installed as instructed)
and it will have the UL label on it somewhere, making it LABELED

Thanks Rick!! Hopefully I should be able to convince the builder and get the things done accordingly.

Originally Posted by Rick Cantrell

Yes, it is UL LISTED (when installed as instructed)
and it will have the UL label on it somewhere, making it LABELED

Originally Posted by Bhargavi Bitla

Thanks Rick!! Hopefully I should be able to convince the builder and get the things done accordingly.

You can also show this to the builder:
- http://products.geappliances.com/Mar...m1971sr_c3.pdf - look at the bottom right hand corner.

What I'm trying to figure out is why the builder is giving you a hard time on this ... did he have to give you credit for a unit he was going to install instead of the one you want? That's about the only reason I can come up with.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

You can also show this to the builder:
- http://products.geappliances.com/Mar...m1971sr_c3.pdf - look at the bottom right hand corner.

What I'm trying to figure out is why the builder is giving you a hard time on this ... did he have to give you credit for a unit he was going to install instead of the one you want? That's about the only reason I can come up with.

Sorry, I did not understand your question. Do the builder's give credit on some thing? I am naive to the home building or buying process.

I am daily monitoring my home to understand what they do. I have asked them to put microwave on the top of the Gas Range with Vent out (This is what is written in our contract too). I think they have put it correctly for the first time (I could easily reach to my microwave). Later after two days they have changed it so high that I could only reach to base of the microwave. That's when I have asked about the details. Then has mentioned that he needed to redo the entire thing for the county code and mentioned that my house will pass the inspection if the microwave base to the cook top is not 30".

I was surprised by the county code and went to the Land Use Department of my county. After that I have learned about the listing and labeling.

Home buying is very complex process. This is my first time experience and We are going through a lot. Hopefully my experience will help other people.

I'm looking into buying a home and I just went to look at this one but found these odd cracks through the walls and ceiling in only two of the rooms, also in those rooms are micro cracks in the drywall causing the paint (which is obviously new) to chip and fall off. I see no obvious damage to the foundation of the house on the outside, and I dont know what could be causing these cracks. The heat has been off all winter and I'm not sure if the cold could have something to do with it, but I'd just like to hear some ideas from a trained eye on whether or not this is a major issue. Please let me know if you have any idea what the problem could be.
What is wrong with this house?