Thread: My new dryer vent run

Hello all, I recently had to modify my dryer vent. My wife wanted me to switch the position of the washer and dryer(better loading/unloading).
I don't have before pics, but it was your typical unsafe flexible vinyl hose run with lint clogging droops. I tried to adhere to IRC 1502.4. I used Shuretape to hold the joints, not screws. I connected the vent tubes with strips of cut vent tubing, screwed to wood blocks. One thing I could not immediately address is the reduction of tubing at the exit point. I may reroute it out the glass-block window. That webbing is the type used for supporting duct runs. And I am also planning to change the dryer plug location. Please feel free to critique, my work.



Similar Threads:

• 3-wire dryer receptacle outlet
• dryer vent
• dryer vent distance from gas meter?
• Dryer Vent Next To Condensing Coil
• Gas Dryer in Bathroom

how did you get away without painting it to match the walls? ;-))

Originally Posted by David Crawford

One thing I could not immediately address is the reduction of tubing at the exit point. I may reroute it out the glass-block window.

I would change that part immediately to a 4 inch exhaust vent.

What is the total length of run for the duct work? Is it over 25 feet? If so you need to verify your dryer is manufactured to work on lengths more than 25 feet.

Well, it's about 900 times better than what I usually see...

Originally Posted by Wayne Carlisle

What is the total length of run for the duct work? Is it over 25 feet? If so you need to verify your dryer is manufactured to work on lengths more than 25 feet.

when I moved mine I looked up the code in CT it was 30 feet in a straight line and you had to deduct 5 feet for every 90 degree turn.

Mike

Originally Posted by John Arnold

Well, it's about 900 times better than what I usually see...

What John said. That type of install around here is Oscar worthy.

Originally Posted by Wayne Carlisle

What is the total length of run for the duct work? Is it over 25 feet? If so you need to verify your dryer is manufactured to work on lengths more than 25 feet.

It is about 8ft total, 4ft up and 4ft across. 3 total turns.

Originally Posted by John Arnold

Well, it's about 900 times better than what I usually see...

Thank you.

Originally Posted by Nick Ostrowski

What John said. That type of install around here is Oscar worthy.

Thank you. I'll spare you the acceptance speech.

Originally Posted by neal lewis

I would change that part immediately to a 4 inch exhaust vent.

Enlarging the hole in the wall could be a problem. I thought going through the glass block would be easier and a more direct path.

Originally Posted by BARRY ADAIR

how did you get away without painting it to match the walls? ;-))

My wife is very patient and not so demanding. Lucky me.

Originally Posted by David Crawford

It is about 8ft total, 4ft up and 4ft across. 3 total turns.

That would have an effective length of 23 feet.

8 feet of straight duct
15 feet for the turns (5 feet for each 90, there are 3 turns)
23 feet total effective length

I recommend replacing the duct straps with 1-1/2" wide sheet metal straps. I would not count on those other straps from holding for long or from lasting very long.

As the others have said - open up the discharge end ASAP.

Oh, it does LOOK very nice.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

That would have an effective length of 23 feet.

8 feet of straight duct
15 feet for the turns (5 feet for each 90, there are 3 turns)
23 feet total effective length

I recommend replacing the duct straps with 1-1/2" wide sheet metal straps. I would not count on those other straps from holding for long or from lasting very long.

As the others have said - open up the discharge end ASAP.

Oh, it does LOOK very nice.

Thank you for the advice.

You could replace that elbow with a lint trap, to compensate for the length factor.
You could run the horizontal section behind the machines, then straight up to the exit point.
You could have spent another month or two getting it done, instead of raising the expectations to such unprecedented heights.
Sorry, but you asked for critique.
It's good. So what's next?

Originally Posted by John Kogel

You could replace that elbow with a lint trap, to compensate for the length factor.
You could run the horizontal section behind the machines, then straight up to the exit point.
You could have spent another month or two getting it done, instead of raising the expectations to such unprecedented heights.
Sorry, but you asked for critique.
It's good. So what's next?

I thought a lint trap would create more resistance to air flow?

Next..... reroute my electrical lines that currently run through my HVAC return ducts. I'll create another thread for that.

Originally Posted by John Kogel

You could replace that elbow with a lint trap, to compensate for the length factor.

Originally Posted by David Crawford

I thought a lint trap would create more resistance to air flow?

Nothing in the code allows the use of a lint trap. That is like those corrugated flexible tail pieces which are made for homeowners to install in the drain lines where the homeowner does not know how to make the configuration work - those corrugated tailpieces may be manufactured, may be stocked, may be sold, may be bought, but ... those pieces 'may not be' installed (i.e., 'not allowed to be' installed) ...

MANY things are made to solve many problems in construction, those things are not allowed by code, the real solution, then, is to correct the problems correctly, not install some product used to compensate for improper work.

Interesting. Thanks, Jerry.

David, how about a straight diagonal run from the dryer to the outlet? Sorry, we're messing with you now.

Originally Posted by John Kogel

Interesting. Thanks, Jerry.

David, how about a straight diagonal run from the dryer to the outlet? Sorry, we're messing with you now.

I guess that would be best. If only i could.