Thread: Just Built My Own First Home (Pass or Fail?)

My home was flooded in July '07. My Mission began Spring '08 and still working on it. I've done this with little or no help. Original Structure was 836 sq. ft, 1 story.The New Consruction is 2,000 sq. ft., 2 story. 2"x4"x8' wall framing 16" O.C. first story(wish now was 2x6). Then topped with I-Joist set 2' O.C. with rim board and squash blocks, decked with 3/4" Advantech glued and screwed every 6" inches. I then Built 2"x4"x5' Walls and set on Advantech, directly above the 8' walls and strapped the levels together using Simpson Strongtie metal straps every 4' directly to studs, then Sheated with 7/16" ZipSystem nailed 3" on edges and 6" on intermediates, then taped seams. Does this sound OK so far? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I would like to discuss the roof sytem,once I get feedback from this post.

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James,
If the construction you described fulfills the requirements of your design drawings, as done by an engineer or qualified designer, then all is probably OK. If you did not use the services of either a designer or an engineer, I hope you took the time to assure that the following folks are not going to cause difficulties later in the process:
1. AHJ for code compliance.
2. Electric and water utility companies.
3. Insurance company.
4. Mortgage banker.
5. Owners' association.

Since you are doing this home yourself, I recommend that you hire an inspector with loads of new construction experience to provide phased inspections.

Have a great day,

Thank You Darrel for Ur feedback. I have no Engineer nor Designer. I only have a Vision. I have worked closely with Building Inspector and all Utility Companies. I have all required permits and Builders Insurance on Dwelling. I would like to discuss My Roof System. A Cathedral Roof System. A simple Gabe Roof with no Dormers. 52 1/2' L x 26 1/2' W. including Overhangs. 4/12 Pitch. 2x6 Rafters with 2x8 Ridge Board. Used Simpson Strongtie RR Connectors at Ridge and Simpson Strongtie VP Connectors at Top Plates. 2x4 Collar Ties placed Directly Below Ridge Board. I plan to put Knee Walls 3' in from Outer Walls, running the entire length of Outer Walls. I used 1/2" ZipSystem for Sheathing. Nailed every 6" on Edges and every 12" on Intermediates. I then put Tamko Metal and Tile stickyback Membrane on entire Roof Deck and covered with 29 Gauge Imperial Rib Metal Panels ith Millenium 3000 Paint System and the best screws they had to offer. Fastened per Manufacturers Spec's and Sealed all cut Edges. I've spent countless hours Researching Cathedral Roof Systems since I got mine Built, and I'm concerned that my Roof Sytem may be Inadequate. Making it suseptible to Sagging or even Implosion/Collapse. My question is "Did I Fail Badly on this Roof System?" All Comments are Invited and Welcomed.....Thank You

Sounds like you need to get a private inspector that does construction phase inspections. I typically find 15 to 30 issues on a predrywall inspection that has already passed all code inspections. Its just the way it is, if you want a good inspection you have to hire your own inspector. You could post 200 pictures and we will still tell you to get it inspected. Keep us posted on the progress, you have a long ways to go but its fun. I did an owner/builder project 9 years ago.

Originally Posted by james joplin

I've spent countless hours Researching Cathedral Roof Systems since I got mine Built, and I'm concerned that my Roof Sytem may be Inadequate. Making it suseptible to Sagging or even Implosion/Collapse. My question is "Did I Fail Badly on this Roof System?" All Comments are Invited and Welcomed.....Thank You

I think the first thing he needs is a structural engineer to review what he has done and what he is planning on doing ... THEN ... he needs to hire a good inspector to verify that he is doing what the engineer said needs to be done/re-done.

No inspector will tell him 'how good/how bad' the design is, which is what he is basically asking - not unless that inspector is also a structural engineer, in which case the fee will not be an inspection fee, the fee will be an engineering fee, which amounts to the same thing I said he needs to do *first*.

Building a two-story house with 2x4 studs is allowed as a MINIMUM standard ... but I doubt that his intent was to build to MINIMUM allowances.

I thank U both, Bruce and Jerry, for Ur Feedback. My intentions were to go way above and beyond minimum Code yes. My local Building Inspector is also a Sructural Engineer, but I really didn't know I coud Hire someone specifically for my little Vision. I thought either hire a Builder and not worry about it or do it Myself and have building Inspector periodically check it, and still not worry about lol. Hmmmm..... I'm still wondering if my Roof System is at Risk. Guess I better see if he is for hire.

James,
At least half of my clients are building their homes without builders. None are doing it without professional design drawings and phase inspections. Any inspector who directly and completely answers your questions as posted is practicing engineering which requires a specific license. Most of us in this forum cannot answer your questions legally. Please, blow the dust off your wallet and hire the professional help you need instead of asking us to perform legally risky acts publicly and for free.

Originally Posted by james joplin

Guess I better see if he is for hire.

Nope - you will want a separate structural engineer to design it, a structural engineer who is not also the local building inspector.

That way the local building inspector can check what you constructed to the engineering design without any conflict of 'oops, I missed this on the design, but as the inspector/engineer I can sign off on it anyway'. Not saying that *would* happen, only that it *could* and I would not want to take that risk.

Hire a separate structural engineer.

How long is that 2X8 ridge? I know the sq ft is 8xx, but what are the dimensions of the building?
Did you nail the 2x4 cross ties to one side only? Do your nails go all the way thru the rafters? Are you using pine? What grade?
Are you planning to install interior walls upstairs?

Hello Gentleman. Thanks again for Ur Feedback. For the Record, I'm not looking for a "Free Ride nor for anyone to Stick their Neck Out". I'm simply asking peoples Opinion's on My First Owner/Builder Project, Period. John, RidgeBoard is 52'6" long. Collar Ties are on one side only with 2-3" Simpson Strongtie SDW Screws on each end and I'm going to add 4 galvanized 16 penny nails on each end clinched, as well. 2/3rd's of the Rafters are SPF #2 and the rest are Hem-Fir #2. Yes, I plan on putting Knee Walls in Upstairs. 3' in from Outer Walls and will run the entire length, on both sides. I planned this for 3 reasons 1) To help support the Cathedal Roof. 2)For a finished Ceiling Height of 6'. 3) Utilize the space in between for Ductwork,Wiring and Closet's. The House, minus Overhangs, is 50' long x 24' wide.

Originally Posted by james joplin

I would like to discuss My Roof System. A Cathedral Roof System. A simple Gabe Roof with no Dormers. 52 1/2' L x 26 1/2' W. including Overhangs. 4/12 Pitch. 2x6 Rafters with 2x8 Ridge Board. Used Simpson Strongtie RR Connectors at Ridge and Simpson Strongtie VP Connectors at Top Plates. 2x4 Collar Ties placed Directly Below Ridge Board. I plan to put Knee Walls 3' in from Outer Walls, running the entire length of Outer Walls. I used 1/2" ZipSystem for Sheathing. Nailed every 6" on Edges and every 12" on Intermediates. I then put Tamko Metal and Tile stickyback Membrane on entire Roof Deck and covered with 29 Gauge Imperial Rib Metal Panels ith Millenium 3000 Paint System and the best screws they had to offer. Fastened per Manufacturers Spec's and Sealed all cut Edges. I've spent countless hours Researching Cathedral Roof Systems since I got mine Built, and I'm concerned that my Roof Sytem may be Inadequate. Making it suseptible to Sagging or even Implosion/Collapse. My question is "Did I Fail Badly on this Roof System?" All Comments are Invited and Welcomed.....Thank You

Originally Posted by james joplin

I would like to discuss My Roof System. A Cathedral Roof System. A simple Gabe Roof with no Dormers. 52 1/2' L x 26 1/2' W.

I'm going to throw out my opinion on what you have asked. However you should definitely hire a 3rd party structural engineer as others have suggested.

In my opinion a Cathedral Roof System of this size would need to have a structural engineer review your plans/idea. Even though the "codes" would allow this type of configuration (with your collar ties) it would be to your benefit to have a structural engineer look at the size of the room and he may suggest to have an engineered beam installed! I know I would!

There may a need for a support post somewhere in the middle of the beam. If your engineer specifies a support post then it will need to transfer the load to the foundation. That will mean that under the post on the upper floor you will need to intall another support post on the first floor directly underneath or some other type of construction to tranfer the load.

On the gable walls you will need to install full length studs from the floor to the rafter. If you try to build an 8' wall and build a pony wall on top of that then it would create a hinged affect and could possibly fail in a high wind situation.

My best suggestion would be to hire an independent 3rd party structural engineer to review what you are proposing as others have suggested.

Hello All. Thank You for Ur opinion Wayne. I greatly appreciate it. That is the type of Feedback I was hoping to receive from this Community, (Good and Bad). Knowledge is nothing but a Good Thing. With that being said, I'm thinking the Metal Straps that are attached to the 8' Wall's and the Pony Wall's will Offset this Hinge Effect. I also made sure the 7/16" Exterior Sub-Sheathing overlapped both Walls, without any Horizontal Seams. I'm also using Bedroom Walls upstairs to act as Support Posts for the Ridge in two different locations under the Ridge Board, which will set on top of a Load Bearing Wall downstairs that sits on top of a Foundation. I'm also thinking that the Gable Walls will act as Supprt Post's on the ends of the Ridge Board and transfer the Load down to the Foundation as well. I just need to make sure that the 2x8 Ridge Board can hold up in between theses Supports. That's my thinking anyway, but not sure. I do Plan on gettin a Structural Engineer to look it over. The House is Built. I still have to add Knee Walls and the two Bedroom Walls though. I do have the Ridge Board braced with 2x4's directly underneath them, to help keep it up until I get the Walls Built. Again, any Opinions and Feedack are Welcomed and Appreciated. Thanks Again to all of U.

Suggestion, make sure that your Cathedral Roof System has a lot of (excessive) ventilation. Have seen so many that have rotted the roof deck in less than 15 yrs.

Thanks for Ur suggestion Gary. I recently learned of a Product called "Accuvent". I'm currently waiting for a Sample of the Product. They make one specifically for Cathedral Roof Systems. I'm excited to see the Sample and hope to use it.

I just read your last post and see you are on the right track. Without support, that ridge will sag and the rafters will push out on the walls. This is a common problem in old churches, BTW.

To make those bedroom walls stronger, why not sheath them one side with plywood? You can cover the plywood with drywall.

Hello John. I'm all about making things Stronger. Can U better help Me understand the benefits of sheathing on side of bedroom walls? Are U also talking about the exterior bedroom walls as well?