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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    New Jersey
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    16

    Default Residential Chimney Question

    I have read the various threads on chimney design and am still confused.

    I had an inspection done on the home we recently purchased and the inspector specificaly omitted certain parts of the roof because of snow cover. Well, the snow has since melted.

    I had the fireplace chimney (on the exterior of the gable end of the house) cleaned and the sweep mentioned problems with the flashing. I went up and looked and the flashing was clearly patched, and the patch was also cracking. There was efflorescence in the firebox (which the inspector mentioned) and the though was this is where water was penetrating. The cap of the chimney was also cracked and needed some patching.

    The sweep came back to do the repairs and removed the old flashing. That is when we noticed that the chimeny was not attached to the house - no brick ties. When the flashing was cut, you could push on the top of the chimney and move it 4-5 inches. In addition the chimney was built around the protruding fascia. In other words the bricks were stepped back to clear the 4" or so fascia, as opposed to the fascia being removed and the bricks laid up plumb.

    There is no evidence of settling of the chimney foundation. The fireplace and chimeny were most likely built after the house was built (+/- 1974). There existing cement siding is behind the chimeny and as I said, the fascia was also continous.

    So - what is the proper way to build a chimney? Should there be brick ties every 4 courses as you would build a wall? If it is supposed to be two inches away from the siding (or sheathing) then what fills that gap - backer rod and caulk? No brick ties make sense on one hand - interior chimneys dont have them, and they are 2" away from all framing with firestopping, but then brick sheathing has them, and they dont have quite the same wind loading as a chimeny.

    I can't seem to find a consistent, authoritive answer. The chimeny guy tells me one thing, internet sources another, looking at other chimenys around the area (Northeast NJ) shows a variety of ways they are constructed.

    Thanks

    Dave

    Similar Threads:
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  2. #2
    Stephen G's Avatar
    Stephen G Guest

    Default Re: Residential Chimney Question

    Dave, we would love to see a pic

    thanks in advance


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: Residential Chimney Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen G View Post
    Dave, we would love to see a pic

    thanks in advance

    Well, there is not much to take pictures of, aside from a new chimney.

    Just wondering if

    a) I was taken for a (expensive) ride

    b) if the new chimney was constructed correctly


    The old one was not attached to the house above the rake, except by the flashing, which had clearly been patched (poorly) a number of times.

    The old siding was behind the old chimney with about a 1/2 air gap. That space had been caulked along the seam between the chimney and the house, but it was damp, and in fact had some vines growing on the siding.

    The contractor removed the siding behind the chimney, beefed up the existing T&G sheathing with 5/8 ply, added ice and water dam, and tied the chimney into the sheathing every 4 courses with brick ties.

    -dave


  4. #4
    James Duffin's Avatar
    James Duffin Guest

    Default Re: Residential Chimney Question

    Attached is what NC says about chimneys...

    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Lake Barrington, IL
    Posts
    1,363

    Default Re: Residential Chimney Question

    David, If you want it from an authoritative source then contact CSIA.org.
    These guys will knock your socks off with excellent info.

    You'll also find very good info at gobrick.com. Click on Technical Notes and find the appropriate PDF.

    Eric Barker, ACI
    Lake Barrington, IL

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