Thread: Flashing needed??

On both sides of my chimney, there appears to be water damage to my siding where the chimney meets the roof. The damage also goes down the back side of the chimney on both the right and left corners as the paint is bubbling. Would flashing correct this problem? Any help is appreciated. Pictures are below. I did have my roof replaced, complete tear off, 2 years ago when I bought my house. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Jennifer Walterlin

On both sides of my chimney, there appears to be water damage to my siding where the chimney meets the roof. The damage also goes down the back side of the chimney on both the right and left corners as the paint is bubbling. Would flashing correct this problem? Any help is appreciated. Pictures are below. I did have my roof replaced, complete tear off, 2 years ago when I bought my house. Thanks!

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Jennifer,

Looks like there is metal flashing installed behind the siding.

A 1 1/2 inch gap between the siding and the rooftop is recommend to mitigated water wick-in up the siding causing the shown rot.

The damage has already been done.
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I need help here, but if there is flashing in play, I believe it should be under the siding and on top of the roofing. So I'm inclined to believe there is none. Also what Billy says. The siding is too close to the roof surface. I suspect your roofer was inexperienced or in too much of a hurry.

Originally Posted by Garry Blankenship

I need help here, but if there is flashing in play, I believe it should be under the siding and on top of the roofing. So I'm inclined to believe there is none. Also what Billy says. The siding is too close to the roof surface. I suspect your roofer was inexperienced or in too much of a hurry.

You're confusing "flashing" and "counter-flashing" again, Garry B.

To the OP, search the subject here. Michael Thomas and others have posted many diagrams, links, etc. and there have been myriad discussions on the subject of pitched roofing surfaces intersecting vertical planes and projections.

There doesn't appear to be any canting, cricket, or kick-outs either.

Find your roofing contract and check the scope of work.

the wood should be off the roof. 1 to 1-1/2"
step flashing shouldbe visable as it goes under the siding or counter flashing. roof shingles cover the step flashing on the layer below.
so it is shingle step flashing shingle step flashing etc along the sides.

Mike

Originally Posted by Jennifer Walterlin

On both sides of my chimney, there appears to be water damage to my siding where the chimney meets the roof. The damage also goes down the back side of the chimney on both the right and left corners as the paint is bubbling. Would flashing correct this problem? Any help is appreciated. Pictures are below. I did have my roof replaced, complete tear off, 2 years ago when I bought my house. Thanks!

I am also not seeing a diverter or "kick-out" flashing to direct water into the gutter. Hmmm... let's see if I can find a diagram...

I see the step flashing is in there in pic 1 and 3. The new shingles are thicker and this is a common result - wood trim touching the roof. Roofers don't normally do carpentry alterations. A carpenter needs to carefully trim the wood without cutting the flashing. Then add the kickouts from Gunnar's post.

Soft spots in the siding can be cleaned up and filled with an epoxy filler, then repainted.

Like Billy said, it needs at least 2" between the bottom of the siding and trim and the top of the shingles.

And as Gunnar said, it needs a kickout flashing at the bottom where the overhang meets the side of the chimney.

Depending on how wide the chimney is, it may need a cricket on the high side of the chimney.

Originally Posted by H.G. Watson, Sr.

There doesn't appear to be any canting, cricket, or kick-outs either.

Sorry HG, I didn't notice that you already mentioned that. For some reason, I saw the cricket...

I guess I need to slow down a little.

I remember there being a cricket on the roofing quote, but I haven't been on the roof to look at anything since I just assumed the roofer did it right. I'll get a hold of the company that did it and have them come back out to look at it. I'll mention the cricket, cutting back the siding and the kickback flashing to him and see what he says. Those are pretty standard procedures when doing a complete tear off and new shingles, right?! Well, except cutting back the siding... wouldn't expect the roofing company to do that but he could have at least mentioned it to me 2 years ago. But thanks so much for everyone's help!! This single homeowner appreciates it VERY much!

Jennifer,

The posted info is good.
Check chimney cap for leakage and slope. Most are inadequate. Replace with welded seam stainless if needed.
Since this is a reroof, proper procedure would be to inspect existing flashing, particularly step flashing, for corosion, breaks, etc. Probably replace and have counterflashing installed. Replace rotted wood with Azek or similar- probably replace all wood and install moisture barrier integrated with new chimney cap and step flashing.
Kickouts should be welded, soldered or one-piece plastic like Dryflekt or Raintek. I did a survey in Chicato several years ago and found at least 30% of field-formed (cut, bent and caulked) kickouts leaked. Above diagram is good, but not perfect.
If cricket is not installed properly, have the whole mess removed and rebuilt. Easier and better than a hodgepodge of repairs and patches. Keeping the sheathing 2" or more above the shingles is common sense and probably required by code. Makes it easier to replace the shingles in the future, especially if counter-flashing is removeable.
Also, keep ends of gutters at least 1/2 inch away from chimney for expansion.
Call me if I can help.
Mike Minigh
MoistureTech
304-904-6055

Appears to be caulking used to replace the rotted wood or an attempt to seal damage.

The wood has been deteriorating for sometime, likely prior to new roof.