Proper Ledger Board Deck Flashing

[Kurt Mc]

Ledger # 1.jpg

ledger with Joists.jpg

Flashing under deck.jpg
I'm hoping someone may be able to take a second and help meunderstand if the flashing on the ledger board is correct. I just build a deck on my brand new home(house built summer 2011) and I'm wondering if I need to go back and remove afew deck boards and re-do the flashing. The flashing that is in the pictures was the flashing that the builderinstalled when they built the house. They attached the ledger and flashing, and last week I built thedeck. I figured it would be sufficientfor me, however after all the reading I have done now it seems that no one usesthis type. What I mean is that the black flashing in the pictures is more of arubber material and not vinyl. Its certainlynot copper, aluminum, or steel. But it does tuck up behind the siding a ways.
Would anyone be willing to take a look at the pictures andlet me know if this is correct?!? .... If I have to go back and re-do (installa vinyl or metal flashing over the top) it I will. It’s better to spend 100-200 bucks now ratherthan thousands later for a rotted house rim. Last thing I want is to buy abrand new construction and end up on some "DIY gone wrong" show!
Thanks!


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[Brandon Whitmore]

You'll need to find out who manufactured the flashing, and then ensure their installation instructions were met. My guess is that this type of flashing is not sufficient, and that it isn't allowed to be exposed.

Also, siding should terminate above the finished deck surface.....

[Kurt Mc]

What is ment by terminate? As I noted I have alread installed some deck boards. If I need to replace them and install proper flashing, I'll do that. But here is a picture of the deck surface.

deck baords.jpg

[Brandon Whitmore]

What is ment by terminate?

The typical standard is to have a 1/2" min. gap between the base of the siding and horizontal surfaces, but I can't find a requirement to do so at a deck. For roofing, a 1/2" gap is called for in order to help prevent heat distortion, but it's a good idea at decking as well.

[Billy Stephens]

Welcome Kurt,

My Guess on the Material How to Use Rubber Roofing Materials for Flashing | eHow.com.

It's also under roof valleys. ( if applied correctly it's Water Tight and durable.)

The deck boards look like composite , nails in the hangers look correct ,crowns up, Brandon's concern of the siding distorting (wavy, oil can ) would be cosmetic and not a water intrusion issue. . Good Job.
.

[Rod Corwin]

I can't tell by that first pic to well. Are those nails going straight down through the flashing into top of ledger board? If so are they double dipped galvanized? I personally don't like the setup. Is there any kind of seal at the vertical ends of ledger board?

About the hangers. Are the angled nails 16's or hanger nails? Hanger nails would be wrong for the angled holes. They require a nail that penetrates the corners of the joist and into ledger board.

Are those lag bolts holding ledger on or are they through bolts with nuts. If they are lag bolts, do they penetrate into ends of floor joists? Are they double dipped galvanized or electroplate galvanized?

I know it's more than you were asking but they are questions I felt the need to ask

[Kurt Mc]

Thanks for the feed back!

The nails are not going down through the top of the ledger board. As for the hangers, those are 16d 3 1/2" galvinized nails in the hanger. The bolts in the ledger are lag bolts, which were installed by the builder. I have sent them an e-mail to see if they could give me a little background on the bolts and flashing. As for the edges of the ledger, I know that the edges were caulked, but I dont know if that is sufficient.

Since I just built this thing, and I want it done right, I've come to the conclusion that Im going to bring up a deck board or two and install a z flashing. It may be a little more work now.... it will help me sleep at night

Again all feed back is welcome! I want to make sure I dont develope any leaks!

[Markus Keller]

A couple thoughts ...
- From the pics it is difficult to tell exactly what you installed, however whatever it is, isn't sufficient. A proper flashing would start under the siding, lap over and then down the front of the ledger board. This way any water coming down the siding or back along the decking would get funneled to the ground
- I realize it is too late for you now since you've already built the deck. However for anyone else reading this ... PLEASE STOP BUILDING THE DAMN DECKS AT OR NEAR DOOR LEVEL. STOP WATCHING THE STUPID TV SHOWS THAT PROMOTE THIS, STOP READING THE DAMN MAGAZINES, STOP BUYING INTO THE HYPE AND NONSENSE.
It goes along the same lines of idiot homeowners insisting a carpenter build their deck, porch or stairs 'level'. It's like a homeowner saying 'Hi Mr. Carpenter please build my X to guarantee premature rot and water intrusion problems, Thank you very much".
Every time I see a deck built at door level, there's water intrusion around the door. Flashings are wrong or non-existent every time.
Anyone building a deck like this should be building the deck at least 1 proper step height down from the door. Especially in snow country. Snow, ice and water have no other place to go but under the door seam.
You need to pull the bottom row of vinyl and a few pieces of decking and install a proper flashing.