Thread: Patio roof/pergola - Can you let me know what else I can do to fix this?

I have a pergola/patio cover that has a crossbeam/joist that are 2 2x6 matted together x 3 spanning across the width of the pergola. I noticed the end of one side of the 2x6s twisting a bit, I'm assuming due to the weight of the roof above. I live in San Diego, it rarely rains and never snows.

When I had my home inspection done a couple years ago before I bought the house, the inspector mentioned that I should replace the 2 2x6's with a 4x6 beam, as the prior was "nonstandard". Also he mentioned that I should install lag bolts where the rafters meet the patio cover 2x6s as they were just nailed to the rafter beams. I installed lag bolts as can be seen in the pictures, but will the 4x6 crossbeam be a better option? I've read that 2 2x6 are actually 15% stronger and have a synergistic effect due to the cross grains.

Do I need to install more posts? I currently have 4 support posts that are 3 1/4" square and are about 10' between them. The patio rafters are 2x6s and run about 2' between them.

Looking for the cheapest way to improve the stability of my structure.

Thanks
http://imgur.com/a/mtmnR
http://imgur.com/a/PuJvY


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Overall it looks pretty good to me, sounds like you've made some improvements at rafter tail connections. I would not worry about the double 2x6 beam, or it twisting a bit. Post footings are a little sloppy.

You have several issues:

• First of all, I don't think those are 2x6s. They look to be more like 2x8s. If you have an over-span with your doubled 2x8s, you would continue having an over-span with a 4x8 but the amount of deflection I see may be acceptable to many. Both City and County of San Diego have handouts that may cover the span issue (I live in PB).
• No AHJ would ever accept the attachment of the patio roof to your rafter tails. I'm guessing your home inspector mentioned it wasn't kosher but he was kind to suggest that fix, which is better than nothing, but you should've used machine bolts with nuts and washers instead of lags. (Nope, I just noticed you used machine bolts but called them lags so never mind.)
• I can all but guarantee that those (very sloppy) footings are way undersized but doubt very much it will go anywhere absent a decent shaker.
• You need lateral bracing. If the bracing is of appropriate size and is attached substantially, that will reduce the over-span. It's difficult to attached 4x4 or 4x6 knee braces to a doubler so you would have to go with 2xs on the outside of the posts and girder. Kind of weak aesthetically but very effective.
• There is an issue with the patio rafters at the skylights. Technically you need doubled rafters carrying the head outs. Since we don't have snow loads, I wouldn't worry about it.
• There is suppose to be blocking at all load support points, i.e., blocks between the rafters above the girder.
• This is occasionally ignored by AHJ inspectors but technically those posts should be PT (pressure treated), preferably without incisor marks or, something I absolutely hate, sitting on a block of PT wood with copper naphthenate liberally applied to the cuts.
• And the winner for splitting hairs would be the Simpson H1 installation. I'm assuming the previous homeowner installed the H1s so they wouldn't be visible from the house but you will have a reduced load carrying capacity if any of those nails fall within the downstream grain of the seat cut. And why he put them facing that way I'll never know as it looks like it was an absolute pain to nail the rafter. (I'm looking more closely at the rafters and I don't think I see seat cuts so ignore the H1 issue.)

Good news, however: Structurally, it's not falling down absent a big earthquake or hurricane gust. It's just a case that it just looks unprofessional.

Some other thoughts:

• Though it is common in other parts of the country, it is very unusual to use doubled 2x in lieu of 4x in California (42 years this June as a framer, finish carpenter, superintendent, subcontractor, general contractor, and project manager), particularly in exposed (visually) and/or exterior applications.
• Whoever installed the column bases used hardware for 4x6s, not 4x4s. Those are nice and beefy post/column bases, however. Here's a thought: Consider installing 4x6s with a 6x on top. Unfortunately, that's a bit of work for a non-carpenter.

All in all, I would just replace the girder with a 4x and that strictly for aesthetic purposes. If you do that, add bracing.

Whoops, one last item, the previous owner was required to pull a permit as this structure is attached to the house. Obviously, there was no inspection.

And another (I need to go to bed): Some missing nails in the hardware.

Boy not much I can add to CoronadoBruin post. I think it is quite accurate. I am an HI in San Diego and of course much of this we may have recommended verbally but as a non alarmist I would have also been realistic about a few small fixes that would be helpful for piece of mind. I was also a framer and builder most of my life before my HI career.

Of course we see these at nearly every home in San Diego built in all sorts of ways. Most of them are originally built as a weak partial patio cover and rarely attached to the home correctly to start with, and then homeowners start adding roof sheathing and shingles or concrete tiles, adding weight after weight with no regard for the structure as originally built. I find the ledger detaching from the wall all the time. Lack of attachment, no hangers. Almost always undersized support members, improper footings, if any etc.

Leave it alone if you dont have the budget, but if you want to be totally safe I would change out the girder and the posts and footings, and added bracing.

Being that you guys are from San Diego, whom would you call to do repairs? I have tried several pergola/patio companies located through Yelp and they pretty much all told me they don't do repairs and only use Alumawood.

Matthew -

I sent a PM to you with some more info.

Steve